LS Rear Main Seal Replacement (4.8L 5.3L 5.7L 6.0L 6.2L 7.0L) 

it's fun and games until you do a 30min track session and a misaligned seal goes BY BY. 1/4 mile pulls and burnouts don't put an engine under nearly as much stress as running all-out for 30min.

I wish ha ha 100hp difference between those forsure

the m8 bolts are 18lb-ft about 8lbft for the m6 long bolts.

@@3rdGenGuy thanks

they sell em on their website, but they also sell em on amazon. USA product www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html

not new, but @3rdgenguy

he was pretty sure with the way his pvc system was set up that it was causing to much crankcase pressure and it blew his seal out.

junkyard LS1 with questionable miles. my PCV routing was wrong so I think crankcase pressure was getting way to high.

never heard a soul ever mention the crank thrust spec for causing a leak

@@3rdGenGuy Never heard of it either, and I've been doing this for forty years. The thrust bearing would almost have to be missing for the crank to walk that far. I've seen Windsor Fords and big block Chrysler's eat thrust bearings and journals.

why risk a job that takes 4-6 hours to do? tool guarantees the main seal will last and not leak.

I talked to an engine builder that probably builds 10x LS 427s a week, and he said that tool is ABSOLUTKLY necessary. although the OEM tool is steel.

@@3rdGenGuy you install the seal before putting on the engine, the seal self centers on the crank. It's really not necessary at all

well no, the OEM GM repair guide is the method I used.

@@notchbackgta torquing the rear cover can cause the plate to move off center. Torquing the cover before the two pan bolts can cause it to be off center. The alignment tool is a must!

@@kennydemartini2169 no, it's not 🤦