HOW-TO fix or modify your 3rd gen Camaro or Firebird.
DISCLAIMER: The information contained herein should NOT be used as a substitute for the advice of a licensed Mechanic I am NOT a certified mechanic, and information shown in my videos can be incorrect. these videos are for informational purposes only The videos are meant as a basic overview and not the "Bible" for the repair. I am not responsible for any injuries or damages encored when a viewer is repairing their car the viewer must take their own safety and property seriously as their own responsibly. you should consult with a certified mechanic before attempting any car repairs.
Just a FYI: you still need to periodically check the bearing preload. especially if you installed new bearings. as new bearings will wear in a bit and the lash will increase.
Have you had any luck with the springs or the RPV? I have the same calipers on the rear of my Monte and the knockback made the car undriveable even on the street until I lengthened that slug in the TrueTrac. It's still awful during an autocross.
turns out probably 1/2 the the pad knock-back was caused by my FRONT bearings and hubs. a DRP bearing spacer helped a ton + a 4psi valve + piston springs. I also added 4 of the bigger wilwood anti-knockback springs to the SS4 calipers. added a 2psi anti-drainback valve for the rear. then installed ticker c-clips from TCE performance. & had a thicker true-trak slug machined from titanium. that keeps any rear knockback at bay. it does slightly drag the brakes though, but a mild drawback to deal with. (more brake dust and noise at slower speeds)
@@3rdGenGuy yo hice un cambio de motora una silverado tenia v6. Y cambie a v8 pero deje el tbi de la v6 montado en el v8. Crees que lo tenga que cambiar?
He leído que la unidad GM 4.3 TBI y la unidad 5.7 TBI son iguales. Sin embargo, la programación de la computadora es diferente. (Estoy usando el traductor de Google, así que lamento si esto suena discordante)
Consider changing the oil cap to a swivel fitting as well. Makes removing the oil cap to add fluid much easier. Otherwise you have to loosen the hose each time
www.radiumauto.com/VTA-Competition-Catch-Can-P2449.aspx www.radiumauto.com/Low-Profile-Swiveling-Banjo-Fittings-P1355.aspx I'm also not sponsored I just like Radium stuff.
You could save a few grams of weight and strengthen that bracket by drilling a hole in it and “dimple dying” it just a thought ! 🎉but she looks really nice bro !
Autocross or road racing has basically Zero vacuum available. the intake at WOT has 0.0 vacuum, so you have to get crankcase gases out by venting. even the intake tube has almost nothing vacuum wise. 3/8 lines aren't big enough to -10an (5/8) is used. that can is a full race can, has drawbacks on the street, but also Pros at a track
Does the distance for the axle clamp from the differential have to be the same? Mine, when made level came out 2 inches for the driver side and 2-1/4 for the passenger side. Yours appears the same, that the passenger axle clamp was out further from the diff. I know with UMI and BMR they state to have them out as far as possible, but all the research I've done on FAYS doesn't cover it. In my mind they should be the same distance if the arms are the exact same length.
The lengths need to be about the same. A longer arm travels a different arc. so if one arm is too long, it'll jam up the watts link. the fay2 instructions do mention that.
@@3rdGenGuy the arms are the same length (8 threads pivot side, 3 threads axle side) but the axle clamps are not the same distance from the diff. I'd be curious of your measurements.
I was thinking to upgrade to 4th gen master cylinder but after all.I have read i stay with 3th gen stuff. Going to change to steel braided line and dot 5.1 should be enough for me
Another quick safety vid. well done. When I swapped to G92 rearend I also swapped the proportioning valve. Two weeks later an idiot didn't even look when he pulled out of parking lot in front of me - glad I did that valve too! This boosted blue one, seems I seen it on CL a while ago...PNW
the bore size on the pressure end is about the same. 0.94in vs 1in the 4th gen is a straight bore master that's better suited for modern brake swaps the 3rd gen master is a dual bore for use with GM's stupid 3rd gen low drag brakes but I see a lot of the 98-02 masters fail due to bad quality.
@@3rdGenGuy Thank you so much man this is great information! Might just save up the dough for an aftermarket set up. My buddy's Elantra N puts you through the windshield and I need that in my turd gen lol
depends on the strut you use. some use different threads. I use Koni race struts that use a 14mm fine thread, but I think the oem struts use a larger nut.
