Note: LSDA push/pull paddles only have one spring, not the dual spring style that comes with original Adams Rite meanwhile I’m still looking for that lost spring
@@jeremyray2562 you dog yours down everyday (set it so the latch stays pulled back) ? If so, the mechanism inside the lock body is worn out/messed up. Have you tried spraying a non graphite based lubricant into the area where the latch come out?
@@selock No I haven't. I was afraid of making it worse. I can see the mechanism that hold the lock open when I take out the core. It only works if I push on it. Also the paddle kind of stay in when you push on it to keep lock in unlocked position. There isn't that "spring back" like I believe it should do. I would love to see a video on "how to fix" do's and don't. On one of these and other common locks. I deal with alot of different styles of locks this being one of them.
Thank you for the video. Without it, I would not have been able to figure out how the damn thing went back together. Fell into several pieces upon taking it apart. Valet punches that paddle!!!!
The new Adams Rite 4900 has a much improved dogging mechanism. If you have any customers with ongoing dogging issues (my door keeps locking on it's own), you should give one a try.. The dogging is more positive and the user is required to push the latch instead of just using the lever or paddle and getting the latch partially dogged. Thanks for another great video.
was messing with one of these today...learned a lot by watching the video...for example, when i took the handle off, then the mount off the door, the cam assembly just fell out...it wasn't held in by the set screw...going back tomorrow with a new deadlatch to install and then put the new paddle assembly on...so that tells me what the problem probably was - the cam assembly was moving when the paddle was pushed in, so it didn't actually 'grab' the rotating part of the latch to retract the deadlatch...everything on the outside of the door works fine...turn key to the left after pushing the deadlatch and it would hold the deadlatch in for open door to business. I don't know why there is a paddle there though, except that this particular city is keely aware of fire safety...and the business next to it had a thumb turn mortise on the inside...who knows...thanks again for the video...and I've subscribed...you're showing real world stuff...
oops...I see I'm logged in to my son's google account...he manages Hiller HVAC, Plumbing and Electrical in Columbia TN...My name is Tim Medlock and I'm a locksmith in the metro Nashville and surrounding market...
Happy Friday Jason. Hope you and Kim have a great weekend. Good to see the Adams Wright gear box and system. Good to see the problem you can get. Also the way to solve them. Thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Great video again. Don't forget that the cam discs can also be reversed, just don't lose the little Jesus clip. You mentioned that you can mount the paddle upsidedown with the retainer screw pointing up; you could do that with the older original Adams Rite paddles, but the newer paddles don't have the correct holes for the cam alignment pins. Please don't remove the pins because I'll just curse you when I have to put it right when it fails within a month :) The 4900 series with the round deadlocker pin has a slightly thicker bolt - if you have a 4500 series working with an electric strike and you try to switch out to the 4900 series, you may cause a bind when the strike is released; it's not obvious what's going on unless you've seen it before.
Paul Camfield can’t believe I forgot to show reversing the cam disk. Thanks for the heads up, I try to avoid mounting anything upside down as a general rule however there have been a few cases it was necessary (usually a handle in the way)
Whatever I do, my latch sticks out way too much and bangs on the mortise plate without retracting thus not closing but damaging the frame of the door. Is there anyway to fix that ?
Are you using the correct backset of deadlatch, some older doors used a 31/32 backset instead of a 1 1/8" Also, there should be a strike plate installed so the latch ramps correctly into it, if don't have that then yes the latch will "bang" to the frame instead latching correctly. Often the strike plate is the most difficult part of the installation
@@selock I will try a 31/32 but I doubt its the problem, although the 1 and 1/8 does not allow for the cover plate to be mounted as it sticks out of the frame. I cant mount a strike plate because we use an electric release of the latch in the mortise side of it.
@@selock Yes I just compared the 1 and 1/8 I received with the old one I removed, and yes there is a difinite size difference. I should receive the 31/32 soon and will let you know. Thanks for all your answers anyway, I really appreciate.
