MA-020s SP Chassis Conversion Update #1

Подписаться 4,1 тыс.

Просмотров 1,5 тыс.

50% 1

This is the first video in my 020SP chassis conversion series. I managed to get the servo installed & aligned with minimal issue. The motor install was straight forward and simple as always & the gear mesh is perfect due to the mini-z design. Made a good bit of progress with this one, the rest of the build should be all down hill and go rather quickly.

Опубликовано:

10 сен 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 24

@GarageMiniRCUK 4 года назад

Nice sounds. Sweet sound of smoothness. Installed that front one way, it worked a dream on track. I'm rethinking all set ups.

@BMR3 4 года назад

Garage Mini RC UK Beautiful, I love hearing this man!! I’m happy I got you to rethink your setups, that’s a lot of the fun in my opinion. I’m excited for your future videos and what you do with your setups! Have a good weekend man

@Auranapse 4 года назад

Smooth gears are so satisfying :D If only I can get the 030 to be as quiet as the 020

@BlitzWorks 4 года назад

Wow that is really well meshed, i just finished up the super skeeter DRZ about an hour ago and also ended up with a super smooth gear mesh but its nowhere near that quiet

@BMR3 4 года назад

Blitz Works nice you got a DRZ! I have been eyeballing one of those, but I’m not sure if I could use it with my KT432pt. I’m rather fond of this controller now, but I haven’t seen any receiver units for it?

@BlitzWorks 4 года назад

@@BMR3 Does not surprise me, i ended up buying most of the ones i could find on the market, now that i have swapped over to the NB-4 i have a bunch of them laying around. send me a message if you are looking for a couple at a good price as they are not a lot of use to me anymore

@BlitzWorks 4 года назад

@@BMR3 actually should point out its not the DRZ but the upgraded DRZ that adds a lot of drifting specific things such as up to 12.5 degrees of camber, both the ordering process and the lack of instructions have made this a time consuming and frustrating build but wow does it work well.

@BlueDrift 4 года назад

I really enjoying seeing this car come back together again, i've gained so much information and learned so many tips and tricks troughout these series. How did the soldering went? I remember you saying that it was something you weren't looking forward too, but i din't hear you mention anything about it in your video. Im going to asume it went quite easy, as the only wires you have to solder are on the ends near the battery contact points and there's a low risk of frying the board. (correct me if im wrong i never disassembled a mini-z this far) If you want to practice some more soldering, Beaver's Hobby has a great guide on making led lights for the mini-z for cheap.

@BMR3 4 года назад

Scan 070 thanks & sorry for the late reply! I missed this one somehow. I’m actually did not need to solder anything! I got lucky and it turns out the SP chassis comes with the battery leads already soldered on, so you just screw them in place & off you go. Thanks for the tip on the LED lights! I never thought about it like that but yeah that would be a great way to learn soldering & I would be making something useful!

@PeebsAndBoogie 4 года назад

Are you in the US? Where do you get your Mini-Zs and parts? I've been looking online but it's hard to find a site with anything in stock.

@BMR3 4 года назад

Michael Maness yep I’m in the US, CA specifically. I try to order as much as possible from Kenon Hobby since they are the US distributor for PN racing & I want to support their products. Not always the cheapest, but it helps support our tiny community. What are you looking for specifically? I may be able to track it down for you. Sometimes you have to order off EBay (internationally) if you want a rare Autoscale body.

@billyhkleung 3 года назад

how did you fix the uneven servo roll in the end? my awd also got the same issue 🙏🏻

@BMR3 3 года назад

I have a kt 432pt controller & it allows you to adjust endpoints unlike the stock controllers.

@LionTree 4 года назад

I'm pretty sure I missed it, but what was the purpose of upgrading the chassis?

@BMR3 4 года назад

The rear end mounting holes were cracked :( it forced me to swap chassis, i dont consider the gold colored terminals an "upgrade" LOL they just look pretty.

@4acae86 4 года назад

Loctite eats plastic. Definitely don't use loctite unless the parts are metal to metal.

@BMR3 4 года назад

Yeah I learned that after I put this car together. Luckily the chassis broke for an unrelated reason & I was able to build a new SP chassis with zero loctite. I only used loctite because I thought the factory screws had old dried out loctite on the threads, but after building the new chassis I realized that the white bits were just plastic from the screws cutting threads in the plastic... live and learn right?

@lanemurphy8395 3 года назад

What does the SP chassis do? How is it different than stock

@BMR3 3 года назад

Gold anodized (or whatever it’s called for steel) contact terminals in the battery bays. Other then that it’s identical. Performance wise, absolutely no gain. I did because I broke a chassis & the gold contacts looked nice but no reason other then that.

@lanemurphy8395 3 года назад

Neat thank you. Any special tools recommended for working on these?

@BMR3 3 года назад

@@lanemurphy8395 Nothing special, just a standard screw driver & the little plastic tools that come with the kit to help you pop the pinion gear off the motor. Hope this helps & have a good one buddy!