I note that a comment from Steffan Gotteswinter precedes this one. I have been watching Steffan for some time and only just come upon your channel. I am in awe of you both.......you are the future of engineering. Absolutely fantastic.!!!
I've yet to read the other comments, so I am unsure as to the popularity of a possible set-up video...personally I am fascinated by set-ups and metrology and enjoy learning about that as much or more than watching a cutter cycle. I will admit your methods are some of the most interesting here on the web, and so anything I can learn from you I'd be grateful for. Thanks again for sharing your skills and talents, Aloha...Chuck.
P.S. I'd never presume to ask you to do over a completed operation's set-up, so only if you have time in the future, please know that at least some of us learn a great deal from watching the thought process behind your set-ups. Thank you.
Bloody nice work, I thuroughly enjoy watching machining and metalwork, since I can't do any of it myself! The hand finished cylinder looks very well done.
I have enjoyed your videos since the toolbox giveaway. Your attention to detail is excellent and you already have the skills and thought processes most younger guys don't have. I have every faith you will be an outstanding machinist. Keep up the good work and keep the videos flowing.
Awesome work. Thanks for all the great info and taking the time to explain how it works, pitfalls and how to avoid them. If you hadn't pointed out your so called mistakes I would have thought a part was going there or clearance for the cladding. Thanks for a very nice video.
Well done Crispin, I just knew that this would be a good video, excellent outcome. From someone as young as yourself, to produce such a complex part is fantastic. I would hate to think what you will be able to produce in Years to come. Your training at RR has certainly paid off. With regards to the end mill problem, with your skill set, I would have thought you very capable of dressing off the bulk dishing of the endmill face with a grinder; then carefully finish it off with an oilstone or Diamond hone. I would have thought that it was perhaps only 10 thou or so dished. Well done once again, now itching to see the next video.
Meticulous work. Super interesting video. The hand drawn diagrams are really helpful. I learned from this video and am very thankful you are willing to share your skills on this project. Thanks!
A ball end milling cutter would give you a better finish but your cuts would have to be closer to get a smoother finish so machining times would be increased but would eliminate the amount of hand finishing required. Excellent videos as usual. I agree with other comments that for your age and the fact that you are still an apprentice, you have amazing engineering capabilities and prowess and it's great to see the aerospace industry will have a talent such as your self for many years to come continuing to pass on your knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and pass on your skills and advice.
Note how the threaded holes in, I believe, the steam chest have recessed threads, reducing distortion of the surface after the fasteners are tightened.
To get the finish you want, you may have to have an endmill ground especially for that operation. Endmills are nearly always relieved like you showed to prevent dragging edges moving at slower linear speeds than one gets at the outer diameter of the cutter. I've done the very same operation you did and got the same result. I didn't do anything about the surface finish since it wasn't that important. It was a much smaller piece. I'm not sure I would bother with a special endmill since your hand finish work produced such a beautiful piece of art. Thanks, John
With reference to a end mill with a flat end face, you can try Cutwell tools in Yorkshire or another cheaper option would be try Norther Carbide sharpening services, they can refute carbide or any other mills, drills both std round bar or taper mount, very professional service and a good price too. Enjoy your videos, very good...Phil
Awesome job there young man! I have a full set of locomotive plans that when I get my shop up and running, I hope to build! Great inspiration watching you! Razor!
Hand filing / fitting like that is a real skill! It takes years to become as efficient as MrCrispin has done. I assume that you are able to borrow some of those more expensive items like those expanding mandrels? Just a great plan well executed. A pleasure to watch...and re-watch!
It always amazes me the number of people you see trying to file a radius by trying to follow the curve of the radius. I used to do it like that, probably until the 2nd or 3rd year of my apprenticeship when the error of my ways was pointed out to me, but if I was shown that almost 50 years ago, why are people still doing it?
A couple of things that could be done aside from getting/making a flat ended endmill. You could do the operation as you have then off set the tool in the -Y direction 1 tool radius so that the edge now cuts the same depth in the center as the edges were cut and repeat the operation and that will get rid of the bulk of the humps. With the endmill in the 1 radius -Y offset you can then mill the last flat beside the boss wall you mentioned and continue the radius right up to the wall, no flat spot in the corner. OR you could do as you have done for the far ends of the pocket only and then traverse in the -/+X direction at increments of angle for each pass. That will remove all of the center humps in exchange for some faceting determined by your choice of angular increment. This will produce a finer version of your roughing faceting operation but fine enough to file out easily. To finish off, with the endmill in the 1 radius -Y offset you can then mill the last flat beside the boss wall you mentioned and continue the radius right up to the wall, no flat spot in the corner. You could even do both of those procedures and get 99.9% of all the humps out. That would take a lot of time of course but we are having fun right? It is a great pleasure to watch your content. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to write that out. Yes both methods sound like an improvement. I spoke to Mike Sayers who does a lot of this type of work in the building of his 3rd scale Bentley Engines and he uses the 2nd method you describe. Lots of flat faces at small angular increments and then blend with file.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises You are most welcome. I have done it both ways before plus I have done it on the lathe with the part on a mandrel in the spindle and by hand feeding the tool on each pass and hand turning the spindle to make the partial cut, like a rotary shaper. It was VERY tedious but produced a stellar result. Thanks for taking time to respond.
I never knew a file could leave such a great finish. None of my stupid files do as good a job. Must be my files for sure ;-) Two or four flute, center-cutting or ballnose endmills will give you a better finish.
Consider how many cuts Crispin would have needed to do to cover the length of the cylinder block, even at 1/8 inch increments it would be about 25 plus cuts. Then finishing cuts, then multiply by 4 ends, he would probably still be at it now. Ball endmills are fine for a CNC, where you can walk away and do other things, but in a manual situation like this one, NO way.
Hello MrCrispin, Joe Pie recommended you and he was spot on! I wonder if you might talk a bit about your expanding arbors. you had discussed a different one in another video, but it would be great to know about the ones you used here. Please do some more guitar intros! As a player and guitar maker, that's my logo in the avi, I was very impressed with your finger style playing.
I can certainly bear the expanding mandrels in mind and show them when next appropriate. I'll have to thank Joe for mentioning me, was it a recent video? Also thanks for your compliments on my guitar playing, I've progressed beyond freight train but not quite sure how best to mix guitar playing with Engineering! Guitar making is interesting and something that I know nothing about. Cheers
Your "radial milling experiment" Keyword, experiment. Your experiments produce better quality work than my finished products! Question: What sort of valve gear will this locomotive use? Stephenson? Walchaerts? Looking forward to part 7!
How did you get such a nice finish from the file(s) near the intersection of the radius and the vertical face, i.e., in the corner? I understand the areas where the file has room to work, just not near the corners.
Hi Mr Crispin. Excellent work, but is there a particular reason why these items are made from a billet rather than being fabricated and machined? Like someone else below has said, surely you could grind your own cutters to do this milling. Regards Mark in the UK.
Sir, I asked Crispin the same question a Year ago. He replied that the castings were expensive and he was an 19 Year old apprentice with not much cash. He had some steel stock from a friend and decided to make it from that. He needed skill building for his apprenticeship, so hence bite the bullet and dive in. Excellent work for someone so young. I was a toolmaker for 35 +Years and I had never done radial milling before. I did a dummy run for Crispin in wood, exactly the same setup, to confirm the setup and iron out any pitfalls, and sent pictures to him. His actual part, has come out super, apart from the cutter marks, but again his skills with a file soon put all to rights. If he continues along these line, then he will go far in the World of engineering.
Hi there, NO if you move off of the work / cutter centerline, you would be using more of the the cutter radius, and it would then leave a concave finish. Flat cutter on centerline is best, and as you saw a few strokes with a file, soon put the problem right. Hope this note helps.
Hello John, thanks for replying. I will get Crispin to also confirm my post. I can quite assure you that I am correct in my comment. I did a trial run for Crispin to prove the setup, anything off of centerline, produced a concave cut. That is why when flycutting in the milling machine, the head must be trammed true, otherwise the work will not be flat and the work will be concave by the radius of the cutting tool. Hope this helps.
Hi. Thanks for your comments. If the cutter wasent on the centreline of rotation I would have ended up with the cutter leaving a concave channel. So over the whole surface I would have a uniform but wavey pattern. The further off centre the tool was, the smaller the radius of the concave shape would be untill you would eventually end up with somthing similar to the radius of the cutter. Cheers
interesting video. In the very first scene the tapered expanding mandrel is shown with a gap to the tapered shaft. Why is that? I thought the tapered expanding mandrel should be in contact with the tapered shaft.
Thanks I've read your comment and I have had quite a few along thoes lines recently. I think what I will do is make a video to answer them all in one. I'll be in touch soon.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Excellent, look forward to seeing it. I'm very intertest in starting my own 5" Springbok build now that I'm pretty much setup with machines in my workshop at home. Plus with your videos will help with my attempt of a springbok. Once again great channel great content and love the hat tossing very original. Thanks for everything greatly appreciated.
