Brings back old memories, I worked at the local NAPA while in school 40 years ago. Folks would only buy new drums/rotors when they had absolutely no choice. Spent many hours in the back of the store turning drums/rotors listening to that sound…
What really works a treat for cutting down the vibration is it is that that rubber cord to put a crossroads to count cards very stretchy college surgical tubing but quite a bit heavier if you can get a whole bunch of it wrapped around there then whatever also is a just a block of wood manually pressed against the ridge The rim the edge of the drum to pick up the harmonics and dampen them because as you know for sure that once you get a good ol harmonic chatter going it can be tough to eliminate it at times which is frustrating whatever
I've turned 100s of drums and 1000s of rotors, none this big though! Its very interesting to see this done on this style of lathe! Crazy! So cool though!
The ridge tells DOT, how worn the brake drums are worn. If it's gone, they can't easily tell. Standard brake shoes are a different diameter than a turned-out drum oversized (fitting issues)
I have cut thousands of those truck drums on my old Ammco 5000 lathe. For truck drums the max diameter allowable is usually 120 thousand over new. So a drum like that is probably 16.620. Max diameter.
I had front drums on my 69 C-10 was on the highway and had to stop suddenly for a stranded motorist. I knew the drums were overturned . The face plate seperated from the brake ring and i knew right then why they have a min thickness rating. It was the front right.
Yeah, don't EVER let cast iron start singing to you. It's darn near impossible to turn a cast surface that's got chatter marks on the surface, especially if you're trying to hit a certain diameter and don't have enough material to remove.
I don't do much manual lathe work and what's larger for me stuff always scares the piss out me. Had some bus wheel hubs from the 30s that had to be bored out to use a modern off the shelf wheel bearing. Barely fit on my lathe and i hated it
I would think on a drum as big as it is and the cost to ship stuff to Alaska it probably a lot cheaper to pay you to machine them then to get new ones like you would in the lower 48. Even if they are readily available drums. I mean what you may have a couple three hrs tops in that when done. If that. At say a hundred an hr. I bet shipping on those babies is prob at least a hundred a piece.
Out of general curiosity, are you recording your spoken audio separate from the video, and adding it in, voice over style? Or is the camera and lapel mic audio routed to the same source? The machining information is fascinating as well, but I noticed the slight disconnect between the audio and you speaking and was curious.
Occasionally I'll have need to film video with one device and record audio separately, but in this case they were both recorded with the same device. It's likely either an issue on RU-vid's end, or an error with the software I'm using. Since it seems fine on the stored file I have I'm apt to blame youtube : ) -Cameraman
If your brake shoes don't exactly match the curve of the drum initially ... surely they are gunna wear into the shape pretty quickly with any decent (commercial) amount of usage ... ?
Remember first brake drum. Didn't ask enough detail & removed to much. Goes to show always said can do it cheaper if tolerances are written on paper and non critical tolerances are a talking point to save time & money.
Old drums used to have the maximum over bore, or the maximum size listed on them, discs had min thickness, I haven't seen that for a long time. This was a time & material, rush job, but I was nice & only charged standard rate, and no clean-up time.
in my opinion for what its worth your ears and fingers can tell you alot about whats going on with your machine ---these young folks look at me like im nuts when i tell them to take those ear budds out of there head when there having problems with something not running perfect lol but im the dinosaure in shop lol
