Funnily enough, when I went Into a sally beauty, asked em for that stuff, they asked me if i was using it for bleaching...bones? Apparently they’ve got someone who does that with the stuff, said they’re used to folks coming in for it for odd uses like that, and that for mine being used to restore old plastics was the least weird one they’ve seen.
Or, if possible and economically feasible, just get a container that is a good size (not too large) compared to the item you are bleaching / retro-brighting.
There is something about your intro music that just makes me feel really good. Like a mix of optimism and nostalgia and just overall a good wholesome feeling. That's a hard feeling to find sometimes.
I’m glad you shared that the retrobriting has held up for two years. I have heard people complaining that retrobriting is a useless process and doesn’t work permanently.
But....that's just common sense. Of COURSE it's not permanent, NOTHING is. Eventually the plastics will yellow again, how long that takes depends entirely on how it's stored/used post treatment. Assuming it took around 30 years to get that bad to begin with, it's not unreasonable to expect a decade or more out of a well-cared-for restored piece.
When I retrobrighted my vintage Macs, I sprayed on 303 plastic protector which blocks UV rays. Years later, they are still flawless in their glorious platinum beige. Highly recommend getting a bottle of this, it works really well to prevent re-yellowing.
3:50 When you said “then this happened” and sprayed it on the screen, I thought the spray corroded or broke the screen somehow. I was relieved when you showed the broken bottle.
Seen someone get zapped by one of the large capacitors in a CRT TV, wasn't enough to kill them but, uh, they soiled themselves, and collapsed like a ragdoll.
@@sfs2040 Yep... Nothing like getting scared out of your chair when they fail with a loud "SNAP!" too... Sadly this technology is going away, lost to time. It's funny our modern LCD monitors are just now surpassing the refresh rates high end CRT's could manage.
@@DeadReckon in the original service manual of these 90s apple computers (Service Source it was called, cd version not online like nowadays) the detailed instructions with pictures always stated that u put your left hand in your rear pocket while you discharge the anode with your right hand; thus, if any current still gets into your body it will branch via your left arm instead of your full chest (with vital organs); when later video version of service source manuals came available the guy was crossing his fingers on his left hand while discharging the flyback!
@@DeadReckon its the nature of the world. But thats why we have people like 8-Bit Guy who can show us interesting stuff like this for our interest in learning and for us to see and appreciate how we got to where we are.
@@charlessale409 They are only that more complex because the parts are hard to find and the manuals/schematics to repair them are not released to the public.
17:44 “okay guys, so if you’re still with me...” ....David, are you kidding me? I am with you until death do us part. Keep the videos coming, glad to see you back.
I second this. With the plastic wrap off, evaporative cooling will rob you of a lot of heat. Tent the plastic wrap with a board or chunk of coat hanger if contact with the piece is an issue.
To anyone with a short attention span if your Macintosh squeals like the one at the start of the video the caps are leaking and needs to be replaced and board needs to be cleaned.
You can do anything with just some Windex. Broken leg? Some Windex Headache? Some Windex Broken car? Some Windex Tired? Some Windex Dirty Glass? Throw an old computer
Thanks for filming and posting. I always look forward to new 8-bit Guy content coming out, and this did not disappoint. Looking forward to the next one.
DAVID! For the love of all things electronic, please do not go spraying cleaners directly onto vented electronics. Spray the cleaner onto your cleaning cloth and then wipe the case. Otherwise, you risk cleaner making it onto the electronics inside, drying, and leaving a residue which could cause very difficult to diagnose electrical issues in the future.
As an upholstery/car guy who loves your videos, I have a tip. Buy a good steamer like a mcculloch 1370 and some plastic trim tools. The steamer would remove any grime or dirt without chemicals, and the plastic trim tools will give you an opportunity to scrape or pry without worrying about damaging any plastic. The steamer would be handy for a lot of other tasks as I've noticed you're a neat freak like me, haha. You'd be amazed at what you can clean with just steam. Anyways, I'm just throwing it out there. Love the content new and old😎🤙
Yep. There seems to be a fine line between enough perfectionism that has its merits and too much of it that it starts the "ball of diminishing returns" rolling. I guess right between those two is the "sweet spot."
When I was 10 (in 2006) I remember that the LCII we had (we almost never used it anymore as we had a bought a PC a few years back) was making these noises (2:37) and sadly it ended up in a recycling center few years later. I have so much memories with that computer playing games in black & white !
I was always found of these little machines since we had them at my grade school. Handsome, clean '90s design. Oregon Trail, Brickles and Space Junkie were my favorite games!
Could also be a filter cap related to the cpu fan. I have seen a similar issue inside an old vcr with a built in amplifier. Every time the motor for the cassette playback moved, popping and clicking could be heard through some connected speakers. Replacing a single capacitor on the motor got rid of the noise.
I was repairing LC models for the past 6 years. Repaired about a 200 of them. The squealing is coming from the audio IC because of the bad caps. Had about 40 that did the same :) Just my 2 cents. Recap and wash the board throughly.
Ah back in the day when they used brittle plastics on everything. Ok, I might be bitter as I've had to spend 2 hours 3D designing replacement parts to 3d print to repair mine because everything is delicate on my power mac 7500
@@NaokisRC I was disassembling an older G3, and basically every plastic piece I touched broke. They're so fragile nowadays - must've cut some corners with cheap plastic
I just wanted to say I really enjoy these restorations. There's just something so satisfying about seeing an old computer look new, and it's a great excuse to tear them down and see what makes them tick.
But they didn't sell a stand for it at all, nevermind for $1000. If you wanted to adjust it you either propped it up on something or you just bought a better monitor.
the best advice he gives is take some pics of the item before you disassemble it. that has saved me so much hassle from forgetting how something was put together.
3:35 I would highly recommend spraying the window cleaner onto the paper towel instead of directly onto the monitor. There are vent holes and other ways the fluid could get into the inside of it and cause some issues.
The Apple IIe version of Oregon Trail is the one I first played at school. All the kids hurried through their work so there’d be enough time for games. Another great video!
I had an LC Mac growing up! So good to see them again! In fact my first interior cleaning, which began my career in computer hardware, was an LC Mac. It had a ton of dust bunnies and it was a daycare computer and it had a large wooden domino in the floppy drive. LOL!
Jan Hemstad honestly, I think they should toss some of their old internally-developed Apple II stuff on the App Store for folks to try out. A faux Newton app would be interesting. I can dream.
I thought this video would be pretty boring, but surprise surprise, I was totally fascinated by this episode. congratulations on doing such a excellent job, I am now a dedicated subscriber.
2:40 I know I shouldn't be laughing at this, but I can't help it! lmfao (it DOES sound like a tea kettle!!! xD) 3:04 I wonder how many monitors were like that back at Retro Reset, lolz (yeah, ew) 3:54 RIP lolz 5:34 OOOF, you ain't kiddin', especially if ya got short, stubby fingers... keep the bandages handy...lol 17:12 Massive difference, believe me I see it... All in good fun, David. All in good fun and retro goodness... :)
Good to see you discharged it to the correct place, the braid across the back of the CRT which in your case it was connected to the rim band lug. The reason most modern units do not arc is that the FBT has a built in bleed resistor (which is usually part of the Focus/G2 chain and very often the HV sense point) not the CRT.
Replace the HDD with an Industrial CF Card. Will make it much faster, and the industrial CF Card is more reliable. Overall it would make the machine a much nicer to use unit.
How cool, I have the same LCII setup with the Apple II card. Mine was originally from a school and it needs recapping as well as it just weak sound. My original LC however makes the EXACT same sound with the speaker connected. When we did the vintage display at a recent education convention it started doing that. I think most of my old Macs need caps ☹️ I can't wait for the video on the IIe card. They're so cool and it's such a fitting peripheral for the LC
The Apple Macintosh LC is the very first ever computer I encountered and used, this was back in middle school in the mid-90's and there was a computer class that had several applications for us to use, one of which was educational apps like the Oregon Trail. The other was a typing; one of our lessons was to type a one letter to one of our favorite companies, for me that was SEGA. I even got a response letter back from SEGA which was awesome! I'll be looking forward to the next episode of the Mac LC, as I too have a purchased a Mac LC with the Apple II card several years ago and have yet to successfully load the Apple II Oregon Trail game on to it. Will be looking for every little detail you provide to get it going!
"No tube has ever had a charge on it" Touching the anode cap to the chassis won't make any change unless the set is actually on. They don't store any energy at all, and if they did it would be drained almost instantly with the tube in circuit. The resistance of the windings alone would be enough to kill any significant stored energy. Because they don't store very much energy at all! They're minimal at best and the internal resistance is enough to discharge the tubes which don't have bleeders in a matter of moments. It's utterly meaningless to have so much worry about them, especially with later sets like this. Earlier tube driven sets and hybrid sets can produce a decent amount of current but at such high voltage and frequency its nearly impossible to do any damage by literally holding the anode cap while the set is on. As long as the CRT is not in circuit, no significant current will actually flow. You're more likely to damage the driving electronics than you are to hurt yourself, especially on a later set like this, which you'd just burn up the switching transistors or red plate a tube. Ridiculously large neck board, too. Since you had everything already disassembled you should have taken the opportunity to properly adjust and calibrate the set.
