You can remove the plastic heat stakes by using hot air and lifting the item to stretch the plastic back into a shape that goes through the hole, doing it this way means you can refit and re-stake it again when re-assembling.
@@tony359 I saw a RU-vid video a while ago where somebody used a buffing wheel after spraying to get a nice shiny finish that looks more like the original metal. I quite like the matte look but it might be worth experimenting with. I suspect it might also improve conductivity.
To get the plastic type labels off easier, warm them up with a hot air gun, not hot enough to damage the plastic, only 120C or so. It softens the glue.
Very nice idea the cold zinc spray and citric acid, no rust anymore and acts both as a paint and rust proof and it is cheap and easy to find and looks marvelous! The machine is really cute, noisy and slow, but looks so futuristic for its era, especially with that auto eject floppy drive which looks like a vhs machine compared to a portable cassete player compared to the manual PC ones with the mechanical button. The white phosphor screen tend to cheat you thinking it is a color monitor but it isn't and I would have adjusted the picture to be a little more closer to the plastic borders, especially at the height, to take advantage of all the few millimeters this display has cause it is really tiny. Great work keep up!
Thank you! Yes I do love the zinc finishing too! That Mac is looking at me now, it's in my living room! I should turn it on every now and then. Thanks for watching!
So glad to see you back with another video. I was worried after you said the channel was not growing as it should. Here's to hoping much more people will enjoy your vids as i do. All the best!
Cool idea with that Zinc spray. I will apply it some of my old metal PC cases that are in a sorry state. And I will use the PCB cleaning fluid too. I'm not shy to just wash the PCBs with water, but it still felt somewhat bad to do it. Thanks for sharing these methods! Great work overall with this machine.
Something I did not mention is that the Electrolube SWAS is water based. So no nasty fumes to worry about. It's just that it's doing a terrific job on oxidation - and it's designed for PCBs. I've been using the same tank for years. I filtered it some months ago. That said, I guess there's nothing wrong with water either. The Zinc spray is a revelation though! Thanks for watching!
12:25 Always, always always reinstall the neck board *last.* Many a compact Mac CRT has been ruined because of an inadvertent bump to the neck board while removing or reinstalling some other part or cable. So it should be the first thing to come off, and the last thing to go back on. (That’s how I was taught back in the late 90s by veteran Mac technicians, back when I worked at my first job at an Apple dealer.)
Great work. My SNES project is in the same state of it being a long one. Waiting for someone to 3D print me a new shell. I'd like to pickup a TRS80 or IBM 50 series at some point. Or even a lil mac like this one.
Very interesting video. your style is really coming into it's own.Though i dont use Vintage computers that much i do love them to bits. I do have 2 spectrums, on in an after market case. not sure if they work. would happily leand them to you if you fancy a poke around inside. Incedentally watched on one of the monitors i got off you.
Hey I remember you! :) Thanks for watching! I'm always happy to tinker with old computers - though I know nothing about Spectrum's. Maybe it would be a good opportunity to learn something about them!
Wow-that looks BRAND NEW! I like the galvanizing coating and dialectic grease for the suction cup! RetroBriting turned out great! I forgot if you said you used 3% or 12%. Also, what was your ratio of water to peroxide? Thanks again for another Great Apple Video!
Hello Apple Audience :) Yes, that Mac is still looking great! It's 12% peroxide I cannot remember the ratio though. Not much. Slower but with less side effects.
The issue with zinc spray is that its still a paint but with "zinc" particles in it. The resin (clear base) is still isolation. The biggest downside is that the zinc/aluminium paints often damage pretty easy explaining the continuity after tightening the screws. Looks pretty good with the retrobright eventhough i am still not a fan of it. Keyboard and mouse are getting the same treatment i presume?
Well as long as it protects the metal, I'm happy with that. For the guts of a computer I feel it's ok. So you're saying it doesn't bond to the metal in any way? I'm not a fan of retrobrighting either but this one came up well :) I got the keyboard recently, I'm not sure I want to retrobright it - I've damaged a keyboard already with that! The mouse, maybe! It's very time consuming and we don't have much sunshine here unfortunately! Thanks for watching!
10:45 You really need a big, chunky soldering iron tip for things like that. The long chisel you used is terrible for heat transfer, and excessively long heating is bad for the board.
Well spotted. I should have mentioned that in the video: they are RIVETED to the PCB. I decided not to attempt to remove them as the chance to damage the PCB is too high in my opinion. I know it's pretty obvious but even removing that shield at the back caused a little damage.
Having a heck of a time removing the motherboard on my Mac SE M5010 as it has a Transwarp accelerator card attached!!! Cant see that its just gonna slide out like Ive seen others do. Not sure what all I need to take off. I have to remove the two floppy drives as neither of them are working. Also the motherboard needs cleaning and I need to check the battery.
I'm not familiar with that card, I saw some pics online. It looks like it should slide out as normal but I am not sure. That said, the card doesn't "slide out", it opens outwards like a kitchen cabinet. First you need to slide the board out a bit until the notches on the right hand side align with the metalwork. THEN, it opens like a cabinet door (you might need to gently pry on the metal frame to release the PCB. You also need to remove all the cables before you do that. I hope that helps!
@@tony359 It plugs into the top of the motherboard. It has an expansion socket that sticks up into a metal slot and it gets blocked. Memory modules also keep it from being lifted out. I looked and do not see the notches in the motherboard. Maybe I have some type of hybrid here!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e0DJYUwJMFw.html You say "lift out", take a look at the video above: the board needs to be lifted 1-2cm to clear the metalwork, then it opens like a kitchen cabinet door. To lift the board those 1-2cm, you'll have to remove the floppy/hdd/power cables, those will hit the metalwork. Are you saying the add-on board prevents you from doing that?
Recapping is always a big subject online. I don't mind replacing them, it can only improve on reliability. But sometimes they are perfectly fine and won't have issues for many years. Also, 30 years ago those computers were EXPENSIVE, so no wonder the components were of good quality. Thanks for watching!
