Marko Tatamovich here , I’m polish and I invent my own knife steel , it’s called Kurvacut , I use secret blend of molybdenum and skin of 9 polish sausage. I have Sam Rockwell of 120, I cut steel balls in half in one chop, make your knife look like toy. I’m fully qualified metallurgist and have degree in science,physics,electronics,nuclear engineering,quantum mechanics, medicine,sociology and biology, but here in Uk I work in sausage packing factory, I’m best knife maker in world, like betman.
Glad I have come across your channel. Thank you for your contribution to the community. Thank you for testing things to their limit. Much appreciated. Love the sense of humor too.
Lets be honest here, if you don't plan on cutting thick bolts and screwdrivers in half, you will be well served by Magnacut. Personally I am impressed, especially with the knife thickness and the thin grind used here which were both thin.
Thanks Aaron. A few years ago you helped me out with 80CRV2 HT. I just made a blade using MagnaCut. Used the same formula, 2050 and 350X2. We'll see. I have been using Elmax quite a bit. Now to find some MC in .156"
Wow now thats a REAL knife test. I will tell everyone i know about this video and ur channel, really appreciate u taking the time energy and money to make this video.
This is amazing. I learned a lot from this video, and it was damn fun too. I just bought a Hogue Deka for $130, not pretty but I expect it will do what I need. Thanks!
I am impressed! I very much appreciate you making this video also. I just got my first MagnaCut blade and my first online knife order, a Hogue Deka. Although much more expensive than the knives I usually buy from Ace Hardware or Walmart, this video helps to justify me buying it. I live in Hawaii, so I look for stainless steel knives, even the Aus 8 and 14c steels from Ace and Walmart sometimes show staining after a weekend of camping so im looking foward to the better corrosion resistance of the MagnaCut. Now I just need to find a good outdoor fixed blade MagnaCut knife for hunting and camping. Appreciate the video, mahalo for making it. Aloha
Thank you I appreciate that. I know bark river bakes, some good magnetcut outdoor blades. Also, big brown bear makes some good skinner blades. Creely knives. Also does a great job with Magnacut. And big Chris makes competition choppers from it. Great choice Aloha.
Im chronicly ill and have been unable to make knives of my own, still enjoying watching you having fun making sharp Tools for outdoor and kitchen. These videos of youres keep my mind active and sane, because of the chronic severe pains can be shut out when I concentrate on youre videos.
Good job Aaron. Video quality continues to improve as well as your knife making skills. And who else is out there testing with no glove, no handle, nothing! #IronworkerHands
You probably already know but one tip for keeping the wrap from sticking is to dust it with baby powder (needs to be titanium dioxide, not corn starch) before heat treat. I had issues with high temp treatments that would fuse a lot of the foil to the blade and haven't had an issue since. Also, I have the 220V evenheat oven and I doubt it's any faster ramping up. It takes probably 40 minutes to get to 1950° F. I initially used a homemade oven with DIY wound elements that would heat up in just a couple of minutes but the elements only lasted a few firings so I imagine Evenheat tries to balance element life with ramp speed.
crazy, I grew up in Morris, never heard it pronounced that way. We pronounce it more of ep than ape. Even after all the years I have been gone, when I go back it really hasnt changed much. My brother and other family are still there, I get back almost every year.
Awesome test thanks for testing it I Got a Hogue Deka with Ultem scales I love the blade the Wharncliffe but I can't get Hogue to tell me what angle I should do the back which is just barely thicker and the front is thinner it looks to me. It's the only Magnacut knife I could find that I liked and could actually afford.
On Amazon there is a probably $15 tool. It’s called a knife angle reader and it uses a little laser and it will tell you exactly what the angle of the bevel
What exactly was the thickness of the knife(both at the spine & behind the edge)? You said it was ground about as thin as a normal kitchen knife? wow if so that’s pretty impressive! Sorry for asking, Im sure you mentioned exact specs, hrc, & heat treat stuff in the video, but I was skipping all around…
The spine was 1/8 And the edge was about a thick kitchen knife, The knife was really never sharpened like it could be though so the edge will hold up much better if it was properly sharpen I was just doing a Destruction test not an edge Retention test
@@AaronJohnson1979 I was referring to your comment about the purpose of MagnaCut. That being said, it was painfully fun to watch. The steel grain was amazing… very impressive!
Never a fan of jack of all trades, generally. I really appreciate it for what it is though, like a stainless 4v, except I’d just take the 4v anyway. If I were to make a knife for someone to have forever and not have to worry about I’d choose this but for now it’s high carbide tool steel as hard as I can muster. I really appreciate these videos. People poo poo desctrutive tests but with the right observation they’re useful as hell for me brain to see the physical limits.
Just a tip! Not firing shots cause I really enjoyed this video! When you hold up the knife close to the camera, if you hold your other hand behind it you will have an easier time getting it to focus! Thank you for making this video!
Awesome video! I am close to Morris in Ottawa, IL and just ordered some 1084 to try and get started. Would love some pointers if you have any interest in teaching a new guy.
Absolutely I’m right in Mazon I would be happy to show you what I know 1084 is great steel to start out with its great steel for beginner or a seasoned knife maker
Not sure why but RU-vid keeps deleting my comment. Maybe because I tried putting my email address in it, idk. But I really appreciate it! My steel just arrived and it would be awesome to meet up if you’re still willing!
@@ryanpeterson1881 yeah usually Saturday is a good day the next couple Saturdays I won’t be available. I’m going hiking, but after that we can definitely find a day that will work for both of us but Saturdays are what’s best for me
I have a small slip joint knife mfr. says 61 hrc. What would be the advantage of 61 vs 63-64? Also the knife was approximately 23 degrees per side, I’ve taken it down to 18 degrees per side. Do you think that’s a bad thing to do?
Far as the differences between the HRC Laren Thomas as a excellent video on this exact subject it’s called is 64 HRC the sweet spot for magnacut now the 18° angle is nothing magna cut can handle that all day long plenty of edged stability
@@BennyCFD perhaps, that or it becomes an industry standard since it covers a variety of valuable characteristics. I agree though this is the day and age where technology is constantly changing as with the processes while finding the next super steel until we find the one to use on a very special type of aircraft, eventually lol.
@@BennyCFD s30v/s35v was the big designer fad steel for over a decade and it had a great run. That doesn't mean it was worthless for the time. Magnacut will have a long run too until something better comes out. And even then it will still have a place
Despite all the modern steel versions, which I also use for custom knives if desired, I still prefer to use D2 and for longer daggers or swords or blades that have to withstand a lot of bending I use C75 steel, which is more in the direction of spring steel. Both types of steel are relatively easy to work with and easy to harden. What are your favorite types of steel?
Well, that’s a pretty big broad question my favorite steels, Far as simplicity and ease of work ease of sharpening ease of finish, I’m gonna have to go with AEBL FAR AS SOMETHING I WANT TO LOOK REALLY GOOD I WOULD GO WITH W-2 with a wicked Hamon line. Far as performance as in Balance something that can just do everything well, I have to go with MAGNACUT. 80crv2 & 8670 they are also very fun to work with also. 14c28n & 26c3 are also right up there.
For me it gives me a false reading on HRC AFTER heat treating, Also behind the mill scale is minor pitting that is deeper in the steel it’s a lot easier to grind when it’s soft before heat treating.
I used to live right down the road from Gebhard park. I had no idea anybody near there built nice knives. Good to know. My in-laws live in Dwight/Coal City. I may have to have them pick a knife up for me.
Have you tried these tests with CPM-3V before? Would like to see how they compare since the 3V is more common and a lot of us have a feel of how it holds up.
I’ve dealt with 3V one time it’s terrible to work with i’ve also owned knives in 3V. MagnaCut is 10 times better on the grinder “machinability”! 3V has high shock Toughness very shock absorbent but far as edge stability Toughness which there is two types of Toughness it’s very low 4V is much better for toughness in the Edge stability department. big brown bear has a great video on that subject. MagnaCut will be 10 times more stain resistant of 3V and it will hold an edge longer than 3V MagnaCut will also have better edge stability at a high hardness and thin geometry. Also MagnaCut has a much higher hard ability capability. Pretty much MagnaCut blows it away!
@@AaronJohnson1979 ao for an hard use fixed blade, that gets used for seperating window frame from concrete and do all kind of bushcraft stuff: 4V is the real deal here? Or should I go for magnacut
The 0.93 mm thickness, wasn't behind the edge, but 3/4 before that spot. Except if I'm measuring wrong all these years, thinking that the right spot is exactly where the edge bevel has ended and the main bevel starts. Is that correct, or am I wrong all this time? I 'm not joking, so I'd appreciate a response, from anybody who knows which is the right spot to measure. Thanks for everything we've learned from this video!
You can measure from any spot you want. I like to use the micrometer notches because it’s consistent in the same spot on any knife,, if you go by the bevel that’s going to be in-accurate simply, because no bevel is the same unless you’re using some kind of angle guide system, and if you sharpen on stones by hand, a lot of times, people get rid of the shoulder and the shoulder is what you’re measuring to basically just a convex from the very Apex all the way up,, we’re there would be a primary bevel or secondary bevel . So basically measure wherever you want and use that same method, not relying on the grind or angle of sharpening.
@@AaronJohnson1979 Thank you very much, for explaining!!! I really don't know why I've never thought of all this, when I already knew that it's exactly how you described it. I really appreciate it, thanks a lot man! Stay safe!
Any steel get one of them water sprayers they’re cheap. Keep it cool. But if you’re worried about it that much, you can always look at data sheets on any Steel and see which one tempers at a high temper.
Exactly MAGNACUT is good at everything, holds a hell of a lot better edge than each H1 & LC200n. It also has better edge stability with a thinner hardness geometry. Which to me is more important than toughness. Even though MAGNACUT is no slouch in the toughness compartment either. It’s just good at everything I found no real weaknesses and I have tried to make it rust with no success
I live in an apartment so I can't make my own knife and I was wondering if you can make a simple, custom knife. I live in Manitoba Canada. Would be awesome.
I will let you know if I start making knives to sell as of right now i am not. And you can make a knife with just a file outside on a stump. Just because you live in an apartment building don’t let that stop you if that’s what you wanna do. Nothing can stop you from accomplishing something that you want.
True indeed. Hopefully this year I will be able to get a house and then I'll can make my own furnace and get some more tools that I need. The whole place might go up in flames if I did that here!
But actually it is meant to have one of the best edge retentions and one of the most rust resistant and very tough steel and when you heat treat it correctly than that is the case like the guys from creely blades they did that
The keyword is “one of the best” not THE best a few steels are more rust resistant some have longer edge holding and a lot of steels are tougher, look at it like this. MAGNACUT is like a king of all trades ace of none.
You seen the grain structure, you seen the toughness and it had good edge retention. The heat treat of this is correct it might perform completely different though with different geometry of the blade and a different HRC & edge
Also anytime you torque a edge on a brass rod like I did I don’t care what kind of steel it is or heat treat it’s going to compromise the edge cutting ability
i dig the into. you have the right idea imo. Only suggestion I have is chromium oxide is fucking trash and terrible. Very early on in my knife fiddling journey I switched to diamond powder. It's cheap and extremely effective. Comes in accurate distribution ranges in terms of abrasive. Very cheap. Lasts forever. You can use it with any kind of carrier or substrate as well, including a wax bar if you wanted. Cuts 52100 just as well as it cuts 10v. I love that aspect, especially for smoothing and surface finishing, if you want a smooth almost unnoticeable cladding line, it works amazing. For something like magnacut with those vanadium carbides I'm gonna guess it does better with diamond too. I haven't actually used magnacut yet but I'm interested, also I have worked with steels with similar levels of vanadium carbide, both more of it and less. Thing is I almost exclusively do kitchen knives and already have certain stuff I use and like to use. idk. Anyway I find anything with more than 3% vanadium does better on "superabrasives" aka diamond or cbn vs. traditional/conventional abrasives. I've gotten good results with silicon carbide tho. Sharpening game needs some work, but otherwise looks like youre having too much fun.
Lol I’d say that’s a pretty fair analysis, And yes, I do get a much more refined and Toothy edge from the DMT course on the magnacut. I keep that Norton crystalline oilstone out in the garage just for beating on it and rough use workhorse stone. I keep my other stones in the house lol. But yeah, this MAGNACUT having 4% vanadium seems like it should be harder to sharpen then what it is, I don’t know why but it seems to sharpen fairly easy. I can get an edge on even an Indian stone with magnacut.. only thing I found hard to do is polish the edge on MAGNACUT, That’s not easy to do. I’d say the steel is easy to sharpen but hard to polish and I agree those diamond stones and water diamond stones, which I’ve never use the water diamond stone. I would love to but man are they expensive lol They do work better than aluminum oxide or Crystalline stones on stuff with 4% vanadium and up
When I make those stainless steel bags to heat treat, I will often make them an extra inch longer, cut off the top and do a second blade. Like you, I also don’t wear gloves.
Man you’re wasting belts, go get a few combat abrasives ceramic belts. I use them myself a lot they last for a very long time you won’t regret it. Try the 36grit specifically, they just don’t stop cutting
Every belt I used in this video was a 36 grit ceramic belt from combat abrasive or tru-grit. If that sucker ain’t throwing sparks im throwing it away lol.
@@joelhunter984 Yep I have no time to make them right now either I have nothing for sale I work construction as an ironworker summertime’s are pretty busy for me I usually make most of my nights in the winter
Awesome vid mate, no rubbish, you know your edge geometry, and you showed me as fellow maker excactly what I wanted to see done to magnacut. Keep it up I learned as much about magnacut from that vid as I did from Larrins book.
No, no , no !!!! The last part was unnecessary my friend, your point was proven!!!! Lol !! If I were there , I would never have let you do the final part. Hehehe 👍 God bless you and keep you all !!
Magnacut is one of them steals that can do everything and everything exceptional. It is plenty tough enough to make a Bowie knife or even something bigger. It would make a great chopper or even a kitchen knife to a pocket knife to a fillet knife. It’s the best there is.
AEBL is cheaper then nitro V and AEBL is tougher by quite a bit pretty much the same edge holding nitro V has a little advantage on stain resistant, but I’ve never had a problem with AEBL
Awesome video i really think the hardness mine is at is the optimal sweet spot actually. And it could be fairly thin as you see and take some punishment too. The edge angle determines pretty much the apex thickness and strength so it can be fairly thin behind the edge as you see and be durable at the very very edge. So as i always say go thin you can always back it up just a smidge as i do. Geometry cuts simple as that. You saw i push cut cardboard with mine and nasty nasty glued foam with plastic inserts and it still push cut free standing paper. Thin is always king to some what of a degree. Thicker edge and higher angle means one must use much more force on the edge. Thin low edge angle say 10 or 13 to a burr then just use a microbevel at say 18 or 20 and it still very strong. Magnacut likes a refined polished little over stropped edge strop it at 25 ish And you are running out of bolts my man 🤣🤣🤣😅😅😅
For a camp knife I’m gonna have to say this is probably the optimal heat treat in my opinion simply because it was probably 61 HRC and it broke fairly easy it didn’t take a Bend at all before it broke everything is exactly Straight still in pieces. At 63 or 64 it would break much much easier and this was easy enough to break for a chopper or hard used outdoor blade I’m gonna stick with this heat treat
@@dimmacommunication I forgot where I read about this, You can use acetone and dry ice it gets a little colder but kerosene is so much safer to work with
Thank you but i push any new steel i use to limit. I don’t see any other videos of anyone breaking MAGNACUT intentionally. But I figured some people would be interested in knowing its limit
@@AaronJohnson1979 I wonder if it'd need a differential quench. I have a 80crv2 with a differential and I'm not sure it even needed it or benefits from it as an example. I have no idea with these new super steels. For example I've not heard of anyone or thing about trying it with Cpm 3v or any super steel for that matter, just as an example.
@@sirsir9665 Well with a long soak time And really high temperatures with these super steels you have to have them in stainless steel wrap so it would be kind a hard to differentially heat treat it in oil not saying it’s impossible but I honestly don’t know you probably would be better off heat treating it normal then bluing the spine with a torch
@@sirsir9665 keep in mind 80crv2 is some really really tough stuff it’s much tougher than magnacut you would be able to pass a ABS journeyman test with 80crv2 I highly doubt any stainless steel could pass that test even magnacut but I could be wrong
He probably had it at a lower edge angle. I grinned the knife very thin but when I sharpened it, I put about a 17° angle on the edge kind of like a micro bevel really adds a lot of toughness. You still get some of the benefits of it being thin and a little toughness at the same time. A lot of steels would still fail though magnetcut is pretty exceptional stuff.
@@AaronJohnson1979 he says that all knife on the test where at 17 degrees so it should be similar results. Anyway thanks for those test it shows that it’s really good steel in its niche . Keep those test going
@@danygodbout979 i usually sharpen naturally around 17 to 22° so I could’ve been a little more than 17. That’s pretty much when you’ll start seeing it fail on the nail test right around there. I have a laser angle reader now, so I can get an exact angle degree but I didn’t have it then in this video
Congress passed a bill for America and was about the 3rd country to go Metric, in the 1800. Craftsman liked the halving and doubling of the Imperial system better. Now that things are going more digital, people don’t have to do the more complicated (longer) fractional math; required using metric.
Well, hell I don’t know nothing about any of that but I believe you, I just think the metric system is better, but I’m I would probably still suck at math lol
I've seen Magnacut blade edges survive being beaten into a few nails cutting all the way through each time at hrc 62.5. I've also seen plenty of long camp choppers at hrc 63 in cpm 4v which has equal toughness at the same hrc to magnacut and they never break these blade or chip them on wood. my guess is you could have performed this test at at least 62.5 hrc and it still would have done just as well but remained sharper for longer on paper tests. Good video though. edit: I take back what I said in the top of this comment, I had no idea you were going to drive it through a DRILLBIT and SCREWDRIVER at the end!!!!! yea 61 was plenty hard for this application, infact maybe you need to try something a bit tougher if you want it to survive, 3v perhaps.
Yeah, I just wanted to give the steel. It’s best chance at the “destruction test” I really didn’t even sharpen it. That good wasn’t going for Ed retention just wanted to show that there was a edge. And it wasn’t chipping or rolling when I do a destruction test I don’t stop until that knife is in pieces. Lol
Thank you I appreciate that and I do believe misinformation is one of the biggest problems with knife making. I love the trade and I hope it continues to grow and more people get into it
Let me tell it like that I usually misshandel my blades gettingen a nail out of the board ect. So blades that snap like that Chip ass well. So i like it softer
26:34 I'm a little confused. And its not really even critical, but it caught my attention. I think your calipers are a little off. That is VERY CLEARY more than half a millimeter, or even 0.86 mm. Half a mm is about 4 human hairs. And there's a pretty visible gap between the caliper jaws. And even though the lcd screen says 0.86 mm, the physical markings on the ruler portion show that its closer to 2.5mm (as seen by pausing at 27:22 ). Just something i noticed. Either way, good video.
Well, it wasn’t 2.5 mm I’m sure of that but then again This is a very cheap caliber very loose got it from Harbor freight. I’m sure it wasn’t accurate I need to invest in a good one. I do see what you’re saying in the video. Something definitely was off there if I was misleading I apologize. Blade was significantly thinner than it was the first go around but I really never even got it very sharp and I don’t like the geometry that it had on it. Either way it was just a torture test. I didn’t put much emphasis on a quality edge or even geometry just quickly threw it together and smashed it to bits. I think it held up really good.
@@AaronJohnson1979 Hahaahaaa, Seriously though, Jean Claude Van Dam could probably slice his way through Steven Seagal, Ralph Machio, Dolph Lundgren & Patrick Swayze with one of those mastefully engineered pig stickers You Smithed up in your insanely equipped garage. I gotta go back to sleep but i'll be watchin' more of your $#*@ tomorrow....Later 🔪
Not only did you break the blade but it broke my heart to watch it too lol a disabled veteran like me very likely will never be able to afford such a badass knife so this really hurts to watch but like ya said "all in the name of science" 🤷♂️👍💪🔪
Thank you for your service ❤️ Now im speaking for knife makers, every new steel has to be tested and pushed to see what it can do. You can read and do research watching videos. But until its in your forge or oven in your own shop only after testing will you be comfortable using / making or selling a knife made with your own hands. Even expensive steel like magnacut, doing this test was expensive eat up belts and it was probably a $50 piece of steel alone. But I learned a lot and I know how far I can push the blade steel far as geometry goes. Not all steel’s can handle that kind of abuse that thin. Like 1095 could never be that thin and that hard and survive some of those tests! I had a hell of a time getting magnacut to even chip out it was hard to destroy the blade edge I almost ran out of things to hit it against.
@@AaronJohnson1979 indeed indeed I saw that, I am quite impressed with this new steel and based on the knowledge of the kid who developed it it damn well should be incredible! How would you say that it compares to cruwear or 4V- M4 even? I've been enjoying some LC200N lately the stuff is pretty impressive for the recipe 👍🔪 keep on building amazing blades sir and maybe one day I'll be able to buy one!
@@kevinAuman1 Absolutely and far as how it compares to 4v or m4, i’m really not sure I’ve never made a knife from either one of those steel’s. I just got a oven not too long ago so I’m playing around with all of these CPM steels I am by no means any kind of an experienced expert on it. At least not yet lol. There is a really good book By Larrin Thomas “knife Engineering” it’s got all of those comparisons strengths and weaknesses. Lotta charts and graphs I like that kind of stuff. I’ve made a lot of knives from simple steel but This cpm. steels I still have a lot to learn, So I won’t be selling any of those types of blades anytime soon but one day I will when I got it down
@@kevinAuman1 I have no knives available for purchase right now but if I do decide to start selling them I will tell you first. As of right now I’m just having fun making them and making videos
Lol u are 100% correct I can’t argue with that. Yes this knife really never reached anything I would consider sharp. If you watch any of my other videos, I do know how to sharpen and I consider myself as being pretty decent at it. I didn’t think a higher sharpness level would affect the toughness, considering this is a “”Destruction test not a sharpness test”” I do many sharpness testing on other videos, this one was just good old fashion blunt force, trauma testing, and it did awesome at that.
@@lyronixone4567 no I’ve got that comment a lot it’s definitely a legitimate comment to make for sure, about the sharpness. I wasn’t looking for edge retention. I was looking for edge damage when I was cutting through the paper which in a way is different than something going dull from cutting through rope or something abrasive. I was looking for hang ups like micro chipping or some type of physical damage to the knife. It’s a different form of edge retention. But yeah, I should’ve been more clear. I made this video a long time ago, and I was still pretty new at taking videos and explaining things.
@@AaronJohnson1979 - You called this steel correctly with “balanced” as it is both tough & hard with compromised edge retention, your testing bore these trait’s out. However the dynamics between steel type, hardness & blade geometry are complex and unfortunately your testing methodology may require slight refining.. but again it was entertaining! Every bushcraft blade has to cut mild steel nails, how else would we know?
It’s just a distraction test doesn’t have to have a good finish doesn’t have to have a sharp edge. At the beginning of the video it had a very thick angle, at the end of the video it was a much thinner angle. I showed what kind of abuse it’s capable of taking
@@user-ww4od4jl1f Oh definitely I agree with that! Every time I start a new steel I do pretty much the same type of distraction test right off the bat, I try to use the same thickness around the same geometry just a rough test edge and I put it through a similar ringer anytime I try a new steel. Gives me a rough idea of where they stand amongst each other not scientific but in my garage that’s about as scientific as I can get lol. It really is a phenomenal Steel but in this video I was still getting used to working with it I really just started working with CPM Steel’s not too long ago so there’s definitely learning curves involved for me
@@AaronJohnson1979 Does anyone already make knives from this steel? I have several BRK knives with a CPM 3V steel blade and a Fällkniven with 3G blade. There is definitely no perfect steel; each has a weak point. It cannot be rationally explained, but I like knives. Classic, not Star Wars design ;-)
What a waste of time and great steel! Your tests have nothing to do with how a knife steel will hold up under real life usage! I can throw a rock through your windshield, but that doesn't mean it's not strong! 🤔😵😡
But all kidding aside, the name of the video is not real world usage. The name of the video is magnacut destruction test and in order to break this steel and destroy it. This is the kind of stuff I had to do you didn’t have to click on it and it wasn’t click bait I destroyed it, I did what I said I was gonna do,, it’s not a edge retention test it’s not a sharpness test hell it’s not even a knife test,, it’s a MAGNACUT destruction test and that’s what it was.
I usually dont watch entire vids, this I watched, just got my hands on a Bark River Bravo 1 Lt Magnacut so I definitely liked what I saw here, My 3v is sweet but need to keep it dry, clean it well all the time,,, hell just using it to carve up steak stains it, needs to be polished out often,,,, Magnacut should allow a quick wipe on my pants and into the sheath with no issues.... I"ll have it out in the Everglades in a couple of weeks to beat the crap out of it, Very cool Vid,,,👍
I have tried to make magnacut rust and it’s almost impossible without some kind of wild chemical the toughness is great and edge retention is great it’s definitely the king of all steel in my opinion
