Coupling and uncoupling on a curve is hit-or-miss. My guess is that the Microtrains couplers would work best if at all. I suggest you check my latest video, "Magnetic Uncoupling Revisited", posted 3 months ago. TO EVERYONE: I apologize for the advertisements. They have been added by RU-vid without my permission. I receive no compensation for them.
I know the magnets need to be on a straight section of track. When my engine pushes an uncoupled car over a #6 (medium) turnout or switch, will the curve in the switch make the car couple with the engine? You have a great demonstration!
I used three neodymium magnets under each rail (6 total)and it works good on my N Scale layout. I needed to buy engines now. I read some where that as long as one has a metal draw bar hanging down and away from the engine, then the engines couplers should uncouple with under track magnets. I was going to buy an Atlas engine. Would you know if this is correct about metal draw bars? On real trains it seem like these metal bars would be air brake hoses. Your site really helped me when I had to place two uncouplers next to each other on two tracks.
I'm pleased that I was able to help. My advice about locomotive couplers is this: Kato, Atlas and Bachmann couplers are not as efficient as Microtrain couplers. I personally never uncouple at my engine unless I have replaced the original coupler with a Microtrain coupler. Instead, I couple a car with Microtrain couplers which will not be uncoupled to the locomotive and uncouple from it. As far as drawbars go, both cars must have one angled away from the back of the knuckle. You can shorten the length of the drawbar if you find it necessary. You might also review my clinic "#31 Magnetic Uncoupling" that I uploaded in March of 2021. I've learned a lot since 2015.
I'm running HO and want to try your approach. Cork roadbed is 3/16 inch, so three of your magnets at each location should be adequate, right? I will use magnets as you. Wish me luck!
Rick, I would recommend that you view my video "Magnetic Uncoupling Revisited". Actually I have since discovered that the screws are unnecessary. As to the number of magnets, it depends upon what size is available. If you have 1/16" thick magnets, then 3 would be good for 3/16" roadbed; however, I would try it out first. Three magnets per stack may be too powerful. Additionally, you can counter sink magnet stacks that are too thick and use pieces of styrene on stacks that are too short. Also note that I used Microtrains couplers in my method on N scale cars. If you are using Kadee couplers, please experiment first.
Thank you for the quick reply and the link to your revisited video! Excellent information! I will order the larger magnets that you used. I use 100 percent Kadee couplers on my HO layout. Looking forward to giving your approach a try! I have several Athearn cars with steel weights, steel screw to mount trucks, and a metal clip to hold coupler pocket in place. Obviously need to do some testing to find optimum number of magnets, location, and solutions for metal in the Athearn rail cars. Thank you for your video and excellent advice. Best Rick
This procedure worked so well I did not try any other options. If you view my video "Operations At Mesa Junction" you can see how well it works. I have completed this operation over 100 times without a single failure. I know that a single larger rectangle magnet works fairly well on HO, but N scale is different because the couplers are different.
I've seen this work well, unfortunately the magnets seem to seldom be in the right places to do a good job. I do not use the magnets at all and still use the "delay" mode of the coupler to place the cars.
@@williamcasper6215 No video needed. Just uncouple the car as usual with the pick, push one of the couplers to one side with the stick, and then back into the car as you would when using the magnet.
