Main Bearing Cap Bolts with a Torque Multiplier, Let's Try It?! 

Surprisingly that 1/2" Milwaukee would remove those bolts! What do you think of the torque multiplier? Thanks for watching. @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel! Amazon Affiliate Links to the tools used in the video: OTC Torque Multiplier: amzn.to/4bi48Eb Milwaukee 1/2” Impact: amzn.to/3WQW7kS

I can't believe I sat here with absolute intrigue for 20min watching Josh pull 14 bolts 🤣

The Screaming Sheep it's my favorite part of each video it's used in. 😆

Hi Josh, thanks for the great video. I’ve been a Heavy Equipment Mechanic for 40 years and used torque multipliers a lot. In my opinion, a 4:1 ratio would be the minimum for what you are doing there. When you get really rich you can buy the hy-torq hydraulic torque multiplier. Same principle as what you are using but uses a electric/hydraulic power pack to run it. Great for torquing CAT D11 track master link bolts 💪

I used to work at a case ih manufacturing plant and we used some low speed high torque pneumatic guns with a reaction bar to torque down lug nuts mostly but we had some for other things too. Anyways we had a new guy once that went to torque lug nuts down on his first day and he grabbed the reaction bar like it was a handle and squeezed the trigger and it jammed his hand into the other lug like the reaction bar was meant to do! 🤣🤣🤣 he only did that once!

Been wrenching since I was 14 and still learning something from everyone, but you Josh are a whole different breed, hats off to you sir keep up the good stuff

I like how you can now talk more live in the shop without voice over! Positive impact

The cheap nut buddy torque multipliers they sell for like 100 bucks are great for this, it's unbelievable the torque they put out, something like 70 to 1 ratio. With large cat excavator cylinders we use to struggle undoing the large Allen bolts that hold the gland in, usually pulling a large breaker bar with a forklift, and usually a big bang and stuff flying occasionally. The nut buddy turned with a ratchet, since you can't spin the handle next to the rod, worked perfectly with no big windup release. Even used it a few times to break free truck lugs out 1 inch gun wouldn't break free, it did it not problem

7:1 and 18:1 were in the tool crib at Wagner. I liked the 18 better because it had a ratcheting mechanism that kept it from "unwinding" when you'd go for another pull. The 7 didn't, so you had to make sure you could sweep your tool the full 360. Used the 18 for D8 and up Idlers a lot, amongst other things.

As a died-in-the-wool, classically trained musician, I approve of your music selection wholeheartedly. You seem to have an innate sense of musical drama! (long time watcher, first ever comment).

I bought a torque multiplier off the jungle site for 80 beans, it absolutely reeks of chinesium but it’s got a 51:1 gear reduction planetary gearset inside it. With a standard 10” 1/2 drive ratchets d the 1/2-3/4 adapter you can break loose wheel nuts torqued to 800 lb/ft like they’re not even there. There’s a lot of slop in it and for industrial tools you get what you pay for, but for the price this thing is great and hasn’t given up on me yet! Plan to use it for main bolts as well.

I laugh every time at the screaming goat

IN MY MIND YOU ARE A PERFECT MECANIC AND THATS WHY I ADMIRE YOU

Very heavenly music. Beethoven is a friend indeed. ½ impact is a MONSTER. Pretty great DOTW. Learning the curve of the torque adapter is something new. Cheers Josh. Happy weekend 🔩🔧👊💪👍👊💯

By my estimation, main bolts are close to 600 lb/ft. People think I can pull 200 no problem. Laying on a creeper, with your ratchet handle at 45 degrees, you’ll be hard pressed to break those bolts loose. Torque multiplier’s work great, but you’ll loose almost a full rotation taking the backlash out of the gears. Love what you’re doing, welcome to being overworked and undertooled!

You need to get a Swench! I've ended up with 3 different sizes for the different jobs we do. I keep a 625 Swench in my truck to do Budd wheels 1 handed with no power or air. A 750 for most big stuck fasteners and a 1000 for dismantling railroad equipment.

Definitely impact for removing. Torque multiplier for retorquing. When the going gets tough, get a larger impact. 😊

Torque Multipliers are great tools to have, especially when you run into bolts that are breaking tools instead of you breaking the bolt. I have 3:1 and a 7:1 in my box but I normally use them to get stubborn bedframe bolts out cause I don't feel like trying to fix a "accidental" torch hole in a new truck bed 😅before the boss gets back.

Used a 3:1 with a built in angle tape to set headbolts on a DT570 once. Gotta remember that not only is the torque multiplied but so is the distance you need to pull lol. That and finding a suitable reaction member can make it interesting to say the least to do.

I use a cheap seal puller, the type that has the two hooks on the head, sharpen them up with a small round file and it bits into the bearings and rolls them out easy. been doing it that way for the last 23 years.

I use a 1" impact to get tires off my bus. To get it to work well with a limited air supply, a use a portable air tank fed from a 3/8" hose from a small compressor, with a 1/2" outlet. It provides a few seconds of high flow to break the lugs loose. It's slow because i need to wait for the compressor to top off both tanks before doing the next lug, but it works.

I know the packaging says don’t put an impact on it but we use a 3-1 multiplier and a d handle Milwaukee to tighten and loosen our liner bolts in some of our ball mills. For reference they’re a 1 7/8” shank bolt, torque spec is almost 1500 ft/lbs

I was impressed with the Milwaukee! You need one of the multipliers used for crab bolt removal on the EMD’s 😊

Loving the videos Josh. I imagine you will have many moments like this as you go on your journey. At least you will know what tools to buy.

Great videos man. Keep em coming.

One trick. If you are not getting anywhere with an impact gun. Try a heavy socket. It works sometimes.

I believe the extra divots on the liner are for better heat transfer. More surface area At the top where the highest temp would be during combustion..

Your in a whole different universe now but continuing with what you do best adepting to what you have and soon making each job better

I used my new Milwaukee 2967 on its first wheel seal job yesterday, it was amazing its power over that old standard. When I worked for Cummins in the 70's they had a policy to ball mike every bearing. I found two shells that had low spots.

I was skeptical about switching to Milwaukee from snap-on I'm still going to keep my snap on 3/4 to remove my truck lugs and those hard to get to large truck bolts. But I was very impressed of the Milwaukee's hydraulic impact. You might want to look into that

I would look up the Torque Test Channel if you are looking for anything to bust bolts with.

It's a very good video, Josh. I'm watching from Jamaica. Keep up the good job, bro.

Hi Josh, as others have likely already said with the 3/4" impact you need the M18 Red lithium high output HD12.0 Batteries to get the most out of it. Know this from personal experience. With the right battery it is a really good unit. With torque multiplies over the years I have found the smaller units to be less effective than larger units. Just my experience using them.

Enjoy your vids ..Your a darn good meticulous mechanic & u make ur vids humorous to... bud..Good job

Whenever I hear a mechanic say “interesting,” i get really nervous!

I really like the one I've got, it's the same one CAT lists. 18.5:1 and it ratchets so you don't lose any progress you've made when you swing the ratchet. It's a lot bulkier and heavier than what you've got so it probably wouldn't work or would be more of a pain to hold up.

I've ran PIA kits with good results, most people can't afford a premium cat rebuild kit, but those people usually don't pay someone to work on their trucks, those ribs help in cooling the cylinder, more common to see in Detroit Diesel engines

Great video Josh Adept Ape, the torque multiplier is also used in some aerospace jet engine maintenance manuals, my first experience with one was around 1992 on a Pratt & Whitney PW305 Learjet engine, until then I had never even heard of one, Thanks for great content, will send my next donation first of the month, since you do not have a Patreon page.

Always used 3/4” breaker bar with a few feet of “cheater” pipe. Worked well for us. 855 Cummins so may be the difference. Ref. main bearing bolts.

funniest video in months, thanks dude

Hey Josh, I hope you see this. Someone already posted about an electric torque gun. It can be a pricey investment. But the investment for not abusing your body is wonderful. My company has them to address a lug nut issue (I work for a large private fleet with issues). I started using the torque gun to torque u-bolts to 500+ ft.lbs. it has honestly been heavenly to not destroy my body with manual wrenching. It's been hugely successful in high torque needs. Buy once cry once, but my body is happy that tool exists.

In my truck shop, we use the half inch Milwaukee impact 95% of the time and never turn the air compressor on, we only have two batteries for it, life is simple, stay strong

I have used torque multipliers successfully on several various things and one thing I've found is if you're pulling the wrench horizontally( in the position you were Josh) you actually put less force on your tool cause you're trying to balance or hold everything then if you are turning the wrench that's in a vertical position(torquing wheel nuts for example). It's not always possible but if there's another person around having them help hold stuff helps a lot

Don't want to say it But, got to suck it up . Get off the creeper ,brace your legs against something, and pull with that Fancy Snap on breaker bar. If it breaks they will give you a new one. That guy wants his truck done tomorrow!!!!

Josh, maybe this was already mentioned but cat has a tool that inserts into the crankshaft oil galley that will spin the top man bearing in/out while you bar the engine over.

Heavy diesel mechanic here, we use a 5:1. Works great for anything upto 1200nm. However I do no have an automatic torque multiplier cordless gun. It's 8k worth of wizardry, that does upto 1000nm at the pull of a trigger, stops itself at a preset torque that you choose. Absolutely the best piece or equipment I've ever used. Called Rad b-rad, look it up you won't be disappointed

Is time for a gofundme for compressor for Adept Ape service van?

I utilize a torque multiplier with a small torque wrench..one of the best tools I’ve ever purchased

We use the torque converter. But instead of using a breaker bar. We used a Milwaukee this does work and makes removing cap bolts quite easy.

I work a lot on construction equipment, and I use Chicago pneumatic cp611, and every once in a while, cp6135 and I was able to take off every bolt I came across

For High Torque placed on Fasteners usually above 1000 ft lbs some type of Multiplier is necessary. 3/4" Torque wrenches stop at 600lbs 1" stop at 1000lbs Torque multiplication assisted by Hydraulic or Pneumatic pressure is pretty standard. I run a Pneumatic TORCUP 6000 that at 30 psi will do 2000ft lbs all day long. HYTORG TORCUP RADGUN are all brands we use on the Mining trucks and their components.

My trick to get main bearings out and in is bend a cotter pin in tee stuck in side the oil galley then roll the crank. Suprisingly gentle on the. Bearings

I was using my leg to apply as much force as possible into a huge torque multiplier. I was trying to get a nut of a diff input shaft for a semi truck. My foot slipped and the anchoring arm of the tool sprung back and struck my other leg. Took a month to fully recover. Was limping for 2 weeks.

Torque myltipliers are a great way to get the job done at minimal co$t... Most can fit inside of a rolling toolbox that has 3/4" drive 6-point sockets...

The Milwaukee is even more impressive with the new battery The forge is awesome!!!!!

I've used torque multipliers for torquing generator (alternator) to frame bolts. I believe they are 600ft/lb torque. Even with the multiplier we'd use a 3 foot torque wrench.

Manual and hydraulic powered multipliers are very helpful. Have used both on bigger and lot higher torques. Agree impacts should not be used to tighten to a specific torque requirement unless you don't mind doing it over and over again. Thank you and keep up the good work

You need to try the new Milwaukee 2967 1/2” High Torque and might as well get the FORGE Battery to go with it. I think my original high Torque impact is great, but the new one puts the original one to shame. I think they make a 4:1 Torque Multiplier also. Great Video, Thanks Josh.

I've got a 2nd hand Snap-On X4 torque multiplier, good for a 1000 ft/ib One of the best tools I ever purchased and you use them far more frequently then you'd think once you've got one.

I have an old Bonney 4 to 1 torque multiplier I have had to use on removing lug nuts. In automotive applications it is rare to need it but indispensable when I pull it out.

One inch torque multi 64 to one 3500 ft/lb on sale at AMAZON ! And yes a one inch impact in the tool box always comes in handy. Great video thanks

Your The Boss!

Circa 1972 I rebuilt a straight 6 cat motor, sorry I dont recall the model. Any who, we used a 1” drive socket and breaker bar with an 8’ long cheater bar to break the head bolts loose. I recall when reassembling we used a Sweeney wrench that had a reaction arm and a hand crank with a dial gage. I recall you just had to keep turning the crank that had to be at least 100:1 ratio. 345 ft lbs was the head bolt torque. 😂😂

Josh I use a torque multiplier in certain situations and it is useful but it takes time to learn how to use it and when it’s best to use. I can say laying on your back is not one of those times, also you only have the three to 1 they make way higher ratios. Now that you are in the field you are going to have a huge learning curve for things like this I can tell you battery guns are the way to go. The marine motors I do,have the same size bolt and are torqued to 250ftlbs and a 90 degree and the 1/2 snap on does it no problem. We have never used an impact driver to tighten them but they do break loose heads and mains no problem. I will send you a link on your email but there is a battery gun that will do everything, it torques and turns the bolt for you. It is very expensive but when your in the field your body will give up quick if you don’t grab things like this to help you. Lion battery torque is what you need to look up and just so you know the 1/2 drive is all you need it goes to 750ftlbs and that is way higher then our mains and heads. Everyone thinks the torque turns double the torque but it actually is no where close . We have tested this many times. For example our heads are 110 ftlbs and 3 90s and if I put torque wrench on 180 it will turn the 3 90s before it clicks.

Milwaukee 1/2" drive high torque impact wrenches have the power. My two favorites are the 2663-20 and the 2763-20. Both are good impact wrenches.

I've used many of them on 55 and 65 thousand pound Mack rear springs

I've seen "crank bearing removal tools" that are pretty much a t shaped bolt (but no threads) that goes into the journal oil hole, then it will rotate out the bearing shell as you bar over the engine.

I have a 3 to 1 torque multiplier that mainly gets used for pinion nut and yoke nuts. Mine is 3/4 in and 1” out put

I have a snap on 4 to 1 multiplier 1/2 in 3/4drive out. I love it. and the snap on 3/4 electric impact I haven't come across anything they won't Crack loose

Torque multiplier to me was using a breaker bar with a 5' cheater over the handle. Never knew a tool like this existed. Could have saved me time taking 5th wheel and gooseneck hitches out of trucks.

I've used a 4 to 1 multiplier with a 1" drive torque wrench set to 475ftlbs for a final torque of about 1800ftlbs on a C-5 T-tail pivot pin nut.

We used a 10X torque multiplier to tighten bolts on a steam generator in t nuclear power plant. Torque spec was 1250 lbft. We had to strap the reaction arms to a pipe to get it to hold. On the upper bearing, I was told to put a cotter pin in the oil hole and spin the crank around.

I know this is a bit anecdotal, but I routinely change the 1 1/2 bolts that hold my feller buncher teeth on with a Milwaukee 1/2 impact using a swivel head and a 2 inch extension. They are pretty powerful!

Skeptical about the PAI parts. Put PAI lifters and cam in a Maxxforce dt. Cam gear went on really easy. Told my forman and he told me go ahead and use it. A month later the gear walked off the cam. Parts rep brought another cam and gear, same thing, gear could be easily bumped on with a brass hammer. Went back with OEM, year and a half still running fine.

I remember playing with Cummins 855's doing head, rod and main bolts with a 1 inch torque wrench. It took lots of effort on the end of that 5 ft long torque wrench to do heads and mains. 650 ft/lb comes to mind. My thought is you hadn't put over 200 ft/lbs on it until the end. You needed longer bars or more reduction

I've used a torque multiplier on lug nuts, worked fine there.

Your Milwaukee fuel 3/4 impact will perform MUCH better and do your main bolt yield with a HD12 ah battery. Also i generally use the torque multiplier on driveline work because they seem to flex quite a bit and require a long throw of the ratchet but sometimes something is better than nothing.

I got a 1" torque multiplier best money i spent couple months ago did a transmission on cat d8t the draw bar bolts were so tight without room for any 1" impact torque multiplier did the job aslo remember u multiple the torque by using gear reduction

I have a 4 to 1 3/4 to 1 inch that would pull those bolts but when i use it upside down its a 2 man job one to pull on the wrench and one to hold the tool in place

I use multipliers simular to that on big railroad engines such as emds and alcos they work pretty good 20:1 multiplier

good to hear the flow of ideas go both ways. So is it possible that the side of the engine with the overly tight bolts, experienced high heat on that side? I limited with my big engine experience, but I remember working on a number of 454's growing up that had head bolt issues, and tended to snap them. As the engine had been overheated/ran extremely close to the limits, and had cooked the oil. Resulting in large carbon deposits and fasteners that often broke instead of coming out due to the heat put into them.

My boss didn't allow torque plus with the impact. We did the 120 with a torque wrench at 600 ft lb and be right on 120. We did rods at either 200 or 300 for the 120 degrees.

I’ve turned them by hand with a 5 ft breaker bar for too long on 3406’s and other truck engines. “Don’t take the tire off I need somewhere to stand”

I've built dozens of engines with a multiplier. From ISX to 3516s. Mine has around 30% loss of input torque, but its pretty damn close to that.

I'd watched a farmer and a friend of his locally in a farm shop working on the farmers Cat C15 doing a rebuild and he never owned a large impact so they were using a breaker bar with a snipe pipe and one was holding the socket up while the other was reefing on the snipe to break those bolts loose. Just about need the tire off on one side and holding the axle up with a jack stand to have better access for that method .... or a big assed impact gun ( that's light in weight ! )

I use a 4 to 1 torque multiplier to remove/install flywheel and vibration damper bolts from cat 3500 series engines. That is also not easy. My previous employer had a 14 to 1 multiplier. That one made is easy you could use a 3/8drive torque wrench to tighten the vibration damper hub on the crackshaft

I loved my torque multiplier I used to rebuild CAT G398 and G399 and occasionally a 3516 and 20 I do not remember the brand though.

Had a tramac demolition hammer that the dealership messed up and I had to go in after them. Called in dealer road mechanic to assist and supply parts damaged by their idiot. 4 foot bolt 1-5/8" thread. 400foot pounds plus 180 degrees. Dealer mechanic stated double stack torque multiplier and a custom concrete insert in 8" floor to tighten properly. He did not bring them and damn near shit when I put a cardboard wedge in the compressor switch to push the compressor into O MY GOD. Ingersal rand 261 3/4 impact work's wonders at 195 psi. DO NOT TELL ME THERE IS ONLY 1 WAY TO DO IT. May be schetcey but works.

There is a tool that slides into the main oil galley of the crankshaft that you can rotate up and around that pulls The main bearings out for the upper shell

I flatten the top of a cotter pin, put it in the oil gallery hole, and turn the engine over. Turns them right out.

Right me if I'm wrong but I think you can use an impact on the torque multipliers and they also make multipliers that have an electric or air motor on them like an impact also. I've seen them used to torque lug nuts on garbage trucks

The ridges and Ruffles on the liners are Cavatation Collectors Lol

Sunex makes very good quality sockets. Made with 100% premium American steel. I wish they were made here in the states but 3/4” and 1” drive sockets can get very pricey in a hurry.

I own 2 tourqe multiplyers made in germany pretty good made by elora tools in germany they are 3/4" to 1" drive i use to break big bolts loose but some of the big hydraulic cylinders nuts are crazy tight

Try the Makita XGT 40v 3/4 drive impact gun. (980ft lb) of torque. Its got a lil more pop than the milwaukee.I think you will be impressed with the makita. I own a semi and its hard to find any bolt it wont break free.

You might invest in a ir 1 inch drive cordless impact its ungodly strong

You need a 6x torque multiply tool for these bolts. That’s what i use for this and Mack bogies 17:45 and truneuns suspension’s torque at 1200lbs per bolt.

I’ve had a torque adapter over a year now. Haven’t had the chance to try it out. Have if I need it scenario.

Pipe, you need a longer handle..... Now that's a torque multiplier

I use ours all the time!