i remember getting my nc750s and having to pay a mechanic to do my work, having ridden my bike with an experienced engineer like yourself and watching your channel, i now do my own work, oil change, brakes, wiring, bearings, if i get stuck, yours and a few more are my go to channels, thank you for sharing your knowledge, you have saved me a fortune.
I can only assume they used better paint on the Aussie version of this bike than the UK one. My swingarm looked like that after about 5K miles and I had to do a clean and re-paint at that stage - then put a shock-saver plastic extension thing on which saves the swingarm. Your solution may be fine for dry countries, but would trap water between the two surfaces and produce horrendous metal-to-metal corrosion given the dissimilar metals used. Simply solution - bend it up a bit to give clearance and put a couple of plastic washers between aluminium and steel where the bolts secure it.
Thanks again Adrian for the video. Excellent work. In your tutorials I had already noticed that the wheel must be pushed before fixing the axle nut, but I had not realized that the chain is on one side and that is why the wheel has a tendency to move the right part of the axle towards back. Very grateful for these reflections that only give the experience. Thank you!
Finally got an nc750x 2019 manual last week. And your channel was one of the biggest influence on my decision to get one. Love your channel and your wit and all those excellent maintenance vids.....so thanks for all your input.... keep up the good work...ride safe...👍 Steve.....UK.
Hello mate, I bought the last used NC750X on Gumtree and Bikesales that was for sale in NSW as of Feb 2024 after missing out on 2 others (I believe you may know one of the blokes, he was selling his wifes red 2017 Nc750X.. apparently he lives not far from you and knows you well). The model I bought is a 2017 Black with 22,000km on the clock from a bloke in Macksville. The chain and sprockets needs to be changed but other than that, shes good to go! I watched your NC750X videos when I was motorbiking in Europe in Aug - Oct last year. Ever since I saw this bike, I wanted to get it and now I finally have it. Thank you for your videos mate! Legend! I will use your videos to help me to do my own maintenance and modifications! When are you organising a subscriber BBQ?! Haha. Take care mate!
Love this channel and this gentleman is afflicted with the same disease I have: We worry about stuff that is likely of little risk and fix it anyway to give ourselves something handy to do! Well done, sir.
Yup, that was so satisfying. I hope it was for you too. Incidently, I almost choked on my beer when you mentionned "a 20c degree winter day";). It seems that Honda has quit selling the NC750x in Australia while it, DCT only, is still available here in Canada.
Yep, sometimes I wonder if Honda is actually serious (or interested) in selling bikes nowadays. Absolutely pathetic when the touring section of their brochure consisted only of the Goldwing !
I like your solutions very much, but this one is overkill in my opinion. I faced the same problem with my NC and used a solution you already tackled a while ago with part of the solution you demonstrated here. So I cleaned the surface too and repainted it with rust repair paint (guaranteed rust free for 12 years now) and made a mudguard bigger than the one you made. I placed this mudguard a little higher up than yours and instead of letting it hang at the back of the spring I let it hang at the back of that place where you fitted that aluminium plate. This way dirt or water can’t reach that place anymore and like in your case no water can stay under an extra plate, i.e. I can still clean everything without problems. Anyway, keep up the good work.
It's such a shame that these projects weren't thought out in the bike's inception. Actually, they probably were but costs scenarios restricted these improvements from being implemented. Well done young man!
Thank you, watching @ 06:00 here on 'Road Racing Capital of the World', used to be called the Isle of Man! Trouble is, my NC is a poor peasant, has no NCStuff improvements!!!
Don`t you own a cordless drill driver ? it is perfect to tap in the thread, I use it daily at work, both in alu,Steal and stanless, might have to flatten one side of the tap to keep it in place and use it on the lowest level and with clutch settings on medium so it don`t snap. Btw I use Tectyl/Pava/Dinitrol on my bike/svingarm, as I am in Denmark and drive most of the year and we use salt on the road in the winther.
Why dont you just let the rubber flap tangle infront of the crotch? I made the flap from old cars tyre wheelbase plastic, molded with heatgun to be infront of this crotch and theres been no rubbing or anything... Crotch still looks like new after 5 years
Don't you think it is going to rust more under that plate? If moisture will be trapped there. I wonder why didn't you use just proper epoxy based paint instead of plate?
Im expecting the tar-based stuff I painted on will protect the steel from rust now that gravel can’t get at it. But I guess time will tell. I update you in another 7 years 🤔
Thank you for the video, but it is better instead of this work, is to make a lengthening of the plastic cover so that it is from top to bottom, so that water and dirt fall directly to the bottom, without the need to stay on the surface that you covered
Instead of placing the rubber shock protector directly behind the shock from a previous video I allowed it to fall in front of the wheel instead, saves this work is easy to move out of the way to clean.
I just noticed the CPR slip-on tailpipe. I guess I missed the episode you installed that. How long have you had it, and how much do you like it over the stock tailpipe? Keep the videos coming. Interesting, entertaining and educational.
I installed the GPR before I started this channel and when the bike was new. It’s from a previous bike. It doesn’t chance the performance at all, but I love the sound. It’s not loud, just deep and grumbly.
The motorcycle has 54 HP, weighs over 200 kg, which is a lot for such a small equipment and power it has. Each such modification means additional grams and, consequently, kilograms. Isn't it better to put on an additional fender made of plastic, which will be much lighter and prettier than this sheet?
I’ve worn thru a lot of sets of different brands. Currently running Road 6 which are the best road tyres I’ve had. And they are fine for light off road too. But I was quite happy with the Shinko’s for a dual purpose tyre.
