Your maintenance content for the NC750x is a gold mine of information. Every single maintenance I've done, was following your videos. Thank you on behalf of all NC750x owners.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuffit does, and it also helps to know what little know things need to be checked. Example, when changing sprockets and chains you also need to replace the cush drive buffers every 20-30k miles also depending on how you ride i changed sprockets and chain and figured out that a bad cush drive will eat your tires, sprockets, chain within a few hundred to thousand miles. Went to the shop to figure out what was wrong and I had too much play in it and ended up having to replace everything I just fixed along with them. I can do a lot myself, as long as I know what I'm looking for.
Thank you for another great video. I’m about to tackle the same task. My 2019 NC750XDCT is my daily commuter (and occasional road trip)in the rain, shine, hot or cold. It was your videos that encouraged me to purchase this particular bike. It’s perfect for what I use it for averaging 70-72 miles per gallon. Thanks again, ride safe!
Remove the plugs next time. I've had people wheel bikes into the shop a month after doing a tappet check and not realising they had managed to loosen the crank bolt getting over compression. Riding along and the bolt walks out oif the crank and into the case. Oops. Use Hylomar blue on the gasket, never silicone as the Hylomar won't go solid and block oil galleries if you accidentally apply too much Looks like a well maintained and serviced engine, even accounting for the Richard cranium moments that I think we all suffer from occasionally. Spotlessly clean internally, well done
This is also my Saturday job. As the weather has started to get cooler, I've noticed that my NC is not flashing up as quickly...Sure sign that the valve clearances need adjusting! Thanks for the entertainment and pointers in what NOT to do (lol).
Thanks for another excellent video 👍 I will definitely be giving that job to my local bike mechanic when it comes due. Nowadays I even struggle to adjust my chain 🥸 I have decided that the biggest mistake I can make when doing maintenance on my bike is to let myself do it.... (might change when I retire and have no money 😭)
Hi Adrian Another brilliant video ! I'm surprised that with all the work you do on both bikes that you haven't got a hydraulic bike lift ? I'm an old fart and I couldn't be without one , it makes life SO much easier and saves all that bending down ! looking forward to more guidance from Aus. kind regards Derek UK
Because allways I appreciate yours videos I correct my valve clearance after 40000 km from first check. And first clearance I made with T1 mark for the right piston. Was wrong,but it is work 40000 km with bigger clearance for piston 1 intake and for piston 2 on exhaust and smaller clearance for piston 1 on exhaust and piston 2 on intake. Next time I know where it is piston for T1 and T2. Thank you for the second video!
That is one quality engine. Geez that thing looks solid. Can't believe there is nothing to adjust after 80000km. A fine video too. Good advice about the workshop manual. Never do a youtube service as you said.
Great video! I'm on 20K with my 750X. I'm never selling it. A man who never made any mistakes - Never made anything. And I make them all the time too. 👍😁👍
I enjoyed your video. Quite entertaining and knowledgable! A couple of suggestions for others: You don't need to align timing marks on the crank and cam. Mechanics never waste time trying to find and align timing marks. Here's the short cut: As you rotate the crank counter-clockwise, watch the rocker arms as suggested. Start with cylinder #1 (left side of engine if you're sitting on the bike, right side of engine if you're sitting on the floor in front of the bike) Slowly rotate the crank counterclockwise with your socket and ratchet. You are looking for the bottom 2 valves (exhausts) to open and then close. Keep rotating the crank CCW and next the top 2 valves (intakes) will open and close. After the top intakes close, rotate the crank another 1/2 turn (180 degrees) and stop. Wiggle all 4 rocker arms of cylinder #1 with your fingers, one at a time unless you have 4 hands LOL They should move very slightly up and down, and you should hear light tapping from each rocker arm. Now you're ready to measure clearances and adjust if necessary. When done with cylinder #1, move on to cylinder #2 and repeat all steps above. Another suggestion: On refilling the rad, leave the rad cap off while starting the engine and blipping the throttle occasionally as the engine warms up. That will allow the burped air to escape from the cooling system. With the rad cap on, as you show, burped air will not escape easily. Thermostat opening is confirmed when the coolant level in the rad neck suddenly rises as the thermostat opens. At that point, shut off the engine, let it cool, and top up the coolant level in the rad if necessary, then install the rad cap.
i am enjoying your video's and appreciate the time you take to make them, just a quick one, who's manual do you use, we have Haynes in the UK, but to be honest i don't think there the best.
Same result on mine, initial adjustment then all good. I class this now as a one cuppa job. I am getting to the stage of looking at a hydraulic bike lift. Bending and crouching just doesn't go well anymore 🤣👍
With most modern bkes being shim under bucket (requiring camshaft removal to change a shim) the old screw and locknut valve clearance adjustment is an outstanding feature of the bike. The double win is the ability to get the valve cover off relatively simply without removing a pile of plastic, the tank and an airbox. There probably isn't a bigger capacity bike on the market which can be checked and adjusted quite so easily.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff It has rocker arms. The camshaft touches the rocker arms and the rocker arms will push the valve down. To remove the buckets you have to remove the "pin" holding the rocker arms, and that's it. 👍
I agree. But given how seldom it needs changing, and that it can be changed in 12 minutes (see my video) I don’t think it’s a deal breaker. Sadly the Africa Twin is also inconvenient to replace.
@kevindarkstar - yes. You would think that with all the smart designers manufacturers have, they could design simple to get at air filters - such as KTM have.
Awesome job again. I hope Honda will make an NC 750 TRANSALP with the same engine as the NC 750. I will then sell my CRF 1000 and get the TRANSALP 750.
You certainly look after your bike. I recall the instructional vid you did on this which didn't seem that long ago. It looks fairly simple following your vid. Curious if you have ever adjusted the valves on Wendy's bike? The 500x is a lot more faffing about of course having shims so won't be trying to do that on my 500x. If I still have it when it's due, I'll have to pay someone unfortunately.
4:00 NOT MY MOTOR! My 2012 NC700X bought used in 2019 with 32K miles (51km) was BROWN from two things 1. burning the clutch (it was about 85% worn when I got it.) and 2. Original owner must have went like 15K + miles without an oil change. Still running fine with 42K miles (67km).
I once forgot to plug the breather hose after adjusting my valves on my NC. And... went for a 150 km ride... Was wondering why all car in front of me were smelling burned oil. I just realised after the ride the mess on my pants and and the engine. Surprisingly, I could not notice any oil level difference on the dipstick. Very little oil goes a long way to make a mess! wont do THAT mistake again, not this one :)
You always put yourself down, I don't think you are stupid, at least you are honest when you make a mistake. When I did my valve Clearance on my NC750X, I also had a struggle disconnecting the Radiator electrical connector, as like you I have hands like Shovels. I then found it so much easier to remove the bolts securing the Fan .Then bolt it back on the Radiator while out of the Bike, Plugging it back in on reassembly was easy enough.
Thanks mate. Good tip regarding the fan plug. Regarding “idiots” - there is so much bad advice on RU-vid - “Delboys garage” (who pretends to be an expert) just to name one - unless you are a trained expert you have no idea than many practices you see are just plain wrong and/or dangerous mixed in with good advice. Thus the disclaimer on my vids.
Question: 5:11 How did you figure out which cylinder is #1? I even asked at the parts department and they didn't know. Unlike a regular motorcycle the NC has only one throttle body that feeds the motor and only ONE exhaust pipe that comes off the engine (exhaust manifold combines cylinders 2 into 1.)
You can tell by the position of TDC. If it’s pointing to no 1 ( the cylinder is in fact on the left side of the bike) all the tappets will be disengaged.
I just find out about your channel and just out of curiosity, are you actually a mechanic because you seem to know a lots and that is not an average rider. I wish I would learn stuff about my bike the way you are at the moment. Any suggestion where to start ?
Definitely not a mechanic. I’ve just learned by doing over the years since my first bike (BSA Bantam) 50 years ago. Where to start? Change your own oil and filter. It’s the easiest maintenance job and will save you 100’s of $. Of course you should be oiling your chain ever 500km and checking and adjusting chain tension. See my playlist “maintenance” for hints on how to do these things. And of course it’s “all care, no responsibility” when you follow the advise of a RU-vidr 😁
You are far from being an idiot (although you make me laugh when you say it). I bought my NC750x almost 3 years ago. I don't ride it much. It is basically a commuter. I only live several kilometers from work so the poor bike doesnt see much riding (I have a 1700 Vulcan Nomad for the longer hauls). I would like to ask you and your subscribers if they have come across a similar problem to one I am having at the moment. I have installed a Lithium Iron battery a while back and it has been great. Recently, the bike has been havinng trouble starting. It cranks strongly but sounds like it is struggling to get fuel. When it starts, it rides and idles perfectly. It is frustrating the shit out of me as I bought this model due to its reliability and ease of maintenance. Anyway, great video. One of the few channels I have my notifications turned on for.
I’ve had a couple of lithium’s in previous bikes. And they have been good. But I’d be suspicious of the battery. There may not be enough initial charge for the liking of the computer even though it cranks. Pinch a mates battery and try it.
Is this koror particularly loud at idle I just bought a new to me 2015 but owner and odometer read just over 1000 miles but it has a lot of valve train clatter only at idle normal??
At 5:00 on cam sprocket what do you mean by pointing down ? Like towards the ground ? I think this is where I messed up and my valves are super loose now
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff yea I just redid my valve adjustment and everything is good. Showing the cam sprocket in your video helped me alot its the only reason I was able to diagnose my error
hi there! how did you managed to obtain the very detailed workshop manual? i bought my bike second hand and he previous owner doesnt have it anymore any links online that i can obtain this model specific detailed manuals? would help me a load! thanks alot
So at 20K kilometers, you adjusted the valves, and then checked them at 40K and 80K and they didn't require adjustment? Remarkable, especially for a screw and lock nut adjustment system. I guess the combination of lower revs and Honda design makes for a very durable engine. Looks pretty easy to work on too. This bike is getting more and more appealing.
I am at 40K, no clearance checked yet. I recon it may need no adjustment if the engine runs ok till 50K, is it really necessary? It will not hurt the engine.@@AfricaTwin-Stuff
@darkopopovic5516 - yes it WILL hurt the engine if one or more valve clearances closes up. The first you will know about it is the engine missing due to carbon buildup from the valves not closing and sealing. The damage will have been done by then and you will be up for a head recondition and valve re-seating.
I recommend a torque wrench, even if you think it is not needed. You don't know how much experience and knowledge is behind those torque settings, and they would not advise them if they were not essential.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff for example, tightening a nut or bolt too much may seem ok, but when the engine heats and expands, this may cause the bolt to crack. I've seen a Bmw boxer cylinder get shot off the side of an engine like a bullet from this kind of failure. Or, something like a plate may warp or a seal may fail. Making an engine that will last thru all of the changing conditions of an engine is not a simple engineering feat. There are many types of alloys, structures, tolerances, stresses, etc. And they all have ranges where they will function and fail in accord with other stresses such as loads, work hardening, and thermal expansion. And over time, usually manufacturers keep track of serious issues, and update torque recommendations specifically to prevent past failures due to wrong torque settings. The consequences are not always immediate, or even generally immediate. No good mechanic avoids them.
1. Remove calliper and pads and clean the pistons with brake clean 2. After reassembly Ensure the foot pedal moves freely. 3. Bleed the brake. 4. Ensure the rotor is in good condition - not warped or heavily scored.
I had the same problem after replacing the rear pads. As they wear, the piston has to extend further out of the caliper to reach the disc. This leaves dirt and crud on the surface of the piston and when the new pads are fitted, the dirty part of the piston recedes back into the caliper. It would then regularly jam in the "brake" position causing the disc to overheat and lock the back wheel. Cleaning the piston fixed it.@@don99206
I really like all the videos you make. But the time has come to sell this motorcycle and buy a Honda Africa Twin. It will suit you more. You're a tall guy and a Honda NC750x isn't for tall people .
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Yes, right, I agree with you, so keep it as a souvenir, and try to find a used Africa Twin model 2016, 2017, or even 2018, with a low mileage. Believe me you will find one, because a lot of short people buy Africa Twin, then they discover that it is not suitable for them, then they sale it at low prices, this is what I see a lot , also My advice to you is to buy the regular African Twin , not the Adventure Sports. Because a lot of my friends bought the Adventure Sport Edition, and then regretted it, the big fuel tank and the higher suspension are useless. Also old AT models 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 are better & practical than the new models 20 , 21 , 22 , alot of my frinds who tried both, says that. I hope 🙏 you find clean one with low mileage, and you will , Australia is a big country .
Thanks for a great video! I started wrenching myself quite recently and always wondered about you RU-vid guys having torque wrenches in your elbows 😄 Seriously how do you do it?? I tried to be cool like you but immediately stripped some aluminium threads in my Honda X-ADV 🫤🫣
Ha! I’ve been maintaining my bikes since I was 16. After a while you get a feel for it. Always use a torque wrench if you haven’t done a particular bolt before.
