I've used a Scotchbrite sponge with Formula 409, the purple cleaner. 409 works like Bleche White to clean tires of dirt and dead rubber and works well with grips, also. As far as the price for new grips, Tacki Macs are in the $6 range and have a nice feel. As always, YMMV.
One thing I find works really well is one of those dish washing devices where you pour dishwashing liquid down in it and it has a sponge with some Scotch-Brite attached to it. I use it to wash down a club after playing a round. The face and sole first, then the grip. It does a great job and gets everything sparkling clean. A paper towel to dry off the grip, then it's back into the bag!
I got an old/beautiful set of Hogan blades with original grips that are slick rubber. But still not cracking. I’m definitely going to sand them first before regripping. Thanks for the vid
Perfect . I'm a subscriber ! Love the back yard feel . From where I watched your video and thinking about golf. It's perfect for older clubs that I use to get in shape for my golf season . Thanks, good golfs for you!
Thanks for your great information, just got a set of ping eye 2 and all have same vintage Karsten grips on them. Still looking really good but very slick… will definitely try your tricks 🤞
I've been trying out alcohol mixed with wintergreen oil 3:1, mixing that and coating the grips in them with a brush after sanding and cleaning the grips with water and soap. Then wrapping the oiled up grips in cling film to stop the mixture evoporating so it can penetrate the rubber for longer. Then after a day, clean the grip in water.
@@EFGMC Read online it's used to soften rubber. I have a set of vintage clubs and the grips are okay but a bit hard, this seems to work very well. you can also use methyl salicylate which is the purified version. Deep heat might also work.
@@EFGMC ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EnGsllKvheQ.html this guy found that if you just use wintergreen oil and heat it up it can only take 15 minutes for rubber to soften better than soaking it for 2 weeks. I'm going to try the same thing i did with cling film except use a hairdryer.
I bought my first set of irons, Titleist DCIs, circa 1990. I played with them for about 6-7 years before buying another set of irons. Since then, I have not used the old clubs barring occasionally lending them to out-of-town visitors. As I write this in early 2023, the grips on those clubs are still in very good condition and I have not had to replace them, unlike the modern grips that go bad in a year or two. They don't make 'em like they used to.
Wow! Those old grips looked like Green Victory I used to use when I was a kid! They say Hogan on them, but I'll bet they are Golf Pride. Not sure they make those anymore. (-:
Hi AJ, Me again! First out, in my experience, DO NOT use washing up liquid when cleaning grips. Generally this sort of detergent is oil based and will have an eventual detrimental effect on the grip material. I have found a much better solution. I don't know if you can get it stateside but I use a product called "Swarfega". It is water based and can be used neat with a small nail brush. Garage mechanics use this to remove oil and grease from hands. The oil and grease that you clean from golf grips is natural oils from the body. So why would you use an oil based product to remove oil? Also whichever product is used the grip should be thoroughly rinsed off under a tap, (fawcett), otherwise the the cleaning product, despite wiping, will remain within the small grooves and indentations on the grip, only presenting itself when you are playing in the rain and you notice the clubs flying out of your hands! On to my query. I've been looking at various grips. In particular the Golf Pride range. Looking at the individual specs they talk about "core sizes". These differ and obviously affect the weight. What is the core size of a golf grip? What decides whether you want or need one size or another? I understand what ribbed grips are. These are used more with irons. With woods and hybrids all becoming adjustable orientation of the grip isn't needed.
Barney, the grip core size is just the inside diameter. Theory being you would match the grip ID to the shaft ID (such as .600). Steel shafts at this point are almost always .600 while 20 years ago you had more .580 shafts and more .580 grips. Golf Pride I have heard is fazing out .580 grips since so few matching shafts exist now. Graphite shafts especially wood shafts can have wider diameters like .620 so in that case you may want to look for grips with .610 or larger if you want to keep the grip from getting too big when stretched over the shaft.
I have those same grips on my Hogans, some are good and some bad. Always clean your clubs after a round, grips and club head. They should reproduce those, I liked their half cords too they put on the Apex club. That club looks like a Radial...
I might check into some automotive or furniture products and see if any might work. Big issue would be making them too slick, not sure how to combat that.
I used to have a set of Hogan Black Cameo Signature irons and was really good with them. But as I started to get better, I ended up selling them because I could par the course all the time. At the time, I thought that was what you were supposed to be trying to do, so I sold them. Then found out I was supposed to try to go under par. When I found this out, I almost had a heart attack. I only paid $80 for the set but they were worth a lot more to me then.
My two hobbies are cycling and golf and my equipment is old but looks great ! People say “I like your new bike! “It's 14 years old ! “Like your clubs wow “ what are they OMG they are over 20 years old - how did you do that ! Secret CLEAN THEM! ZI keep them in an old golf bag - not the bag you use on the course !
Sanding, then soap and water should still be your best bet. Those softer lower sections of the MCC grips do wear out faster though so you can only get so much out of them.
@@EFGMC thank you. By "lower" you mean the section closer to the clubhead right? What grit sand paper would you suggest for mcc grips? What about scotchbrite? Love the channel- keep it up!
@@johns1646 Correct. The softer section, used to be the color part, but now they make so many versions, that does not necessarily work. Medium grit, or scotchbrite can work also. Just trying to remove that top layer of rubber. Thanks for the support!
@@EFGMC thank you MCG! Do you have a video on how to decide when you can't save a grip and must replace? Grips are expensive and so you probably can help in deciding when to pull the ripcord and let your old ones go to grip heaven lmao
@@johns1646 Shiny, cracks, or slippery. Those are the best indication that the end is near. Shiny and slippery you can still milk a little more time out of, cracks = time to cut off. Might want to check out this review I did. The give away is over but the info is still good. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1F4n5EZYkq0.html
Winn grips shred themselves without help. Eventually they become so tacky that it sticks to everything! Love the feel of new Winn grips, but not replacing them twice a season
@@mikerodrick2430 idk what grips you getting and unless ALL your old grips need to be replaced (which unlikely all your clubs experience the same wear), I pay $10 ish for golf pride MCC grips + $2 installation. Pretty cheap