Make Your Own Outrigger Vise Stop 

I definitely enjoy the DIY videos such as this one. I wouldnt mind seeing more of them. You end up showing more useful tips and tricks along the way than you know.

There are very few "RU-vid" machinists that I would want to spend a day in the shop with to learn stuff like this from, and you are at the top of my list. I would be happy to sweep your floor 😄 I started in the hobby quite late in life and have had to cram as many bits of knowledge as possible into my thickening head as fast as possible. You have been an integral source of what have learned, and just wanted to thank you and encourage you to keep up the great work.

Great video! Really love the narration of how things can go wrong. Advice on the tool pressure against the large holes, even the comment not to cut through the threads which would seem obvious to a machinist but not to a newbie. I watched many hours of yours and other machining videos years ago and bought a lathe and mill and made parts literally the the day I set them up. Your videos are by far the best for learning how to make things come out right. There is no casual watching on your videos, yours are like a master class, notes and attention and sometimes even a calculator are required. I can't express how much I appreciate your selfless contribution to the trade through your videos.

Great vise stop. Very well made thanks for the video. I got a couple of vise stops but only one vise.

An abundance of very good advice. Thanks Joe for your knowledge and the time it takes to make all these videos to help us in our shops. You would make a very good teacher in becoming a machinist.

While it is a joy to watch you work the real value is the clarity with which you explain how you approach each aspect of the job. Outstanding!

I know, I know, old video but there are so many wonderful tips in this one that us casual machinists can benefit from that I feel obligated to help the algorithm. Thank you Joe.

Educational, fun, practical. I didn’t double-tap a single time to speed the video. I wanted to watch the whole thing. Thank you, Joe, for taking the time to share you great genius!

Such a simple looking tool/jig but you have included some very valuable tips in the process. Thanks for all the videos. Happy machining.

If you "unloosen" (36:29) something, aren't you making it tighter? :-) Enjoyed the video!

Unloosen ? Doesnt that mean to Tighten ? lol I know its a Texas Okie Thing I hear people say that all the time instead of Loosen .Great Video Joe I do like the way you show efficiency in tool changing .

Perfect job as always Joe

Nice project. I will probably have to modify my vice to have a flat surface on the back of it before I make one of those... Or get a new vice, of course... ;)

Cleanest nails of any machinist I've ever seen.

Just made one! Thanks for the ideas and videos.

Nice collection of vices ;-) Thanx for uploading this fine video!

The bonus material was worth the extra few seconds! Thank you. I can never get too many belly laughs.

FINALLY someone on you tube showed way protection with a wood block on RU-vid!! You are to be congratulated. Might be a sign he knows something RU-vid viewers. Might want to pay attention as I use to tell my students.

Seems like we come from the same school of old timers experience and years Joe. Just wish my hands and eyes worked like they did in my younger years but hey, I guess it just comes with age....LOL

A great video. Covers stock cutting, drilling, tapping, 3-jaw and 4-jaw lathe chuck, and boring on the lathe, as well as using a stop in the mill vise. . A lot of really useful information. + Thanks for taking the time to video and post. +

Cool tool.

Speaking of eliminating a tool or operation - the part that attaches to the back of the vise could be made of a round stock. Instead of turning square stock into a round, mill a flat surface on one side of the round then drill mounting holes after milling operation while the rod is still clamped in the vise? Also, if using standard rod diameter the holes could be quickly reamed instead of boring to size on the lathe? I do get that this is an educational video (a very nice one at that) and more complicated design is an opportunity to show a few different techniques and tips. But you mentioned eliminating tools is a good thing and those two thoughts came to my mind and I am curious about your opinion. I have to make a vise stop soon so I will try to make it from a round stock and see if I get something useful.

Hi Joe, I learnt lots on today's video, I liked the logic the proportions of the component parts. Thank you. Take care Paul,,

I have not purchased a lathe nor do I have any experience other than watching videos. So, not completely understanding machinist terms, if I unloosen something, am I snugging up the part?

Thanks Joe! Great job... is that a bijur spraymister magnet? Lol. Joe..

Great project. I am building one for my 4" vise. I do wonder about chucking the connecting block back in the lathe to bore the holes to final dimension--why not just drill and ream in the mill (no change of setup)? I will use 3/4" square bar, didn't have any, and wound up buying a 16" piece of O-1 tool steel. (So I can harden it in my shop-made oven) I hope I will be able to turn it ok.

Excellent video. One thing I did differently is rather than drill and tap the rod that holds the stop, I bored and tapped a cap that fit over it. I then drilled a crossing hole through the cap and one through the rod. This allows me to fit any stop without having to mill a flat to account for any metal deformation on said stop. The stop is put through the cap and rod. When the screw in the cap is tightened it clamps the stop between the holes. Many indicator set ups use this same scheme.

Naturally we love the clock! the Probe tip might turn on a back light or fore light on the clock intensity. It driving a POT that delivers the power to the LED lamp. :-)

Fabulous, sir!

Joe, Wow that second saw kerf unlosened the stress form that part a couple or three thousands of an inch.

I used Anchorlube yesterday when making sizeable bores on 1018 steel. It makes vapors, not smoke. Soon, within an hour of using it, I noticed that all parts of my lathe near the work were turning brown. My chuck, jaws, the 1018 workpiece, the ways...ALL the metal was turning brown. I cleaned it with 1500 emory, WD-40, Scothbright, and managed to scrub away most of stain. I then finished the job using both Tap Magic, and the new THICK Tap Magic. They smoke like crazy, but I've never had a problem with them before. This morning all the parts are stained again. It is uniformly distributed on all surfaces, and only a vapor deposition can do that. So...one of these cutting lubes is fuming and or smoking and messing up my lathe. HAVE YOU SEEN SIMILAR PROBLEMS???

I would like to see a video on your chamfer tool. Looks to be shop made

The 'hanger'is a very dangerous thing. I've drilled hundreds of holes and still got bit by one recently. It whipped out wide and grabbed my thumb, pulled it into the job and the spiral cut cut deep before it let go. A significant amount of claret spilled with a decent flap of skin hanging loose. I was relieved it happened to me and not to one of my students.

That was a whole bunch of great tips. Thank you Joe. You are the best 👍

This video is a goldmine of very useful ideas! Thanks Joe.

At about the 6:20 mark, after picking up the edges of the part by bumping it into the shim and the pin, I didn't hear you account for the thickness of the shim when explaining how far to move to the hole location. Was that because you weren't concerned about a couple of thousandths, or am I missing something?

Dear Sir, You produce some great video content, thank you for sharing your extensive skills with us. Please carry on making these video`s many thanks

Good project Joe, I’ll certainly be making one or four of these. One day I might even make something that’s not a shop tool/accessory.

When I saw the end with the rare bonus features, I spit my tea all over the computer screen. Keep making chips Joe!!! Great video!!!

You can also pick up center with a pointed tap in a 6-inch scale, balancing the scale on the part and holding it down with the tap in the spindle

Yeah agree with comment below lots good tips throughout. Also by far the best machining channel I’ve seen. Speed is perfect. Too many channels bang on about a load of bolloxs and takes ages to get to the point.

I know not everyone is a Facebook user but all my shop activity is on my public access Facebook page Edward A Loftis.

Thanks for Your educational videos. They are of great use. Q: At 43:15, You comment on not leaving the gauge pin in the part, it might be a part of the chuck. What don’t I understand there?

Great vid. Kiwi English says un at the front of a word makes the meaning opposite. Texan must be different. Noticed when you cut the second slot it popped open. Are there stresses in the material that causes that? Nice to know that factoid about the 303. I use SS screws for some types of workholding on my CNC machine for timber. No matter how careful you think you have been, occasionally I nick one. They are soft enough for the carbide cutters to go through unlike normal steel screws. That redistributes the cutter all around the machine.

I have found that all SS fasteners from a hardware store are 304/18-8 food grade. I made a replacement part for my French press from that.

I don't have a DRO or CNC. Everything is by eye and measurement.

Great vlog Joe, thanks for sharing.

What a safe way to counter balance 4 jaw?

very useful.

👍 , nice project . Making ones own tools results in a lot of satisfaction. 😊 !

Stopped the video at 33:36 and ordered a Fowler tap guide. Slowly working my way to have all the cool tools that Joe has!! Also, as soon as I saw the finished stop bolted to the vice I thought why not have the round feature on both ends of the piece that bolts to the back of the vice, it would look like a vice with handlebars and be twice as useful.

I only have a 4 jaw I use on my rotary table ( round about) I don't have a lathe.😢

Joe, it seems a few people are confused by your use of the term "unloosen". They may be interested to know the term goes back to the 1300's when blacksmiths often made ambihelical hexnuts to secure parts in agricultural equipment like cultivators, hay balers, and hog carts. Ambihelical hexnuts were each handmade and had the interesting property of having to be completely screwed on before they could be screwed off and, no matter which way it was turned, it tightened. Therefore, it made no sense to say, "loosen the ambihelical hexnut". Thus the term "unloosen" came into common use when referring to ambihelical hexnuts because that clearly indicated that the hexnut was indeed ambihelical and would have to be completely tightened before it could be removed. Like many words over the years, its true meaning was lost, and machinists trained by the descendants of the machining/blacksmithing guilds came to use it to simply mean unscrew the damn nut. 😜 I made a vise stop like yours for my little Kurt D-30 after I first saw yours. It is indeed a must-have. Great tutorial.

Great tip on using a round bar to get close when centering a square piece in the four jaw chuck. Thanks

Another master class. Thanks Joe

Would a parallel in between the part and chuck due any good?

Cool job as always Joe. TFS, G :)

As always great video. When you used the sharpie to mark the reference corner would it be better to use a different colour so that a novice would not get confused at which corner to reference off even though it may seem obvious, some projects may not be quite as obvious as this one. This from a total novice working with metal as wood is my normal medium

I like the approach. Thanks for sharing another great project. I already had a Lipton style of stop, but you had a ton of great tips. If I lived locally, I would volunteer to work for you for free, jut to learn a tiny fraction of what you have to share. By the way, I think Stan is a reseller for Anchor Lube.

Hi Joe. Now this is a really nice project & in Stainless makes it super Impressive. I made my stops in alloy, which work really well, but lets be honest they don't compare with your professionalism. Be safe & Catch you on the next project :)

Hi joe. Can you use a coaxial indicator to tram in your mill assuming you have a plate with true faces and 12”+ diameter

Nice clear instructions. But, that was a horendous feed rate on the cutoff saw!

Pure GOLD....... brilliant nuggets everywhere. Saving this to my machining refresher playlist. Thank you Joe 🙏

Even when I am well serviced with multiple vice stop types, hey, it's Joe Pie... I always learn something from Joe Pie... So, I watch every video you do, And I learn, I see, I look behind the scene, stuff. Thank you, Joe, for sharing.

Hi Joe, I visited the plans section of the Advanced Innovations website, and wasn't able to find a copy of the plans for this Outrigger Vise Stop. Is it possible to get a link to the plans? Thanks in advance, and I hope your weekend is starting out well! ^____^

Joe, I can’t believe I missed this old episode. I just want to again say how much I appreciate how you’ve thoughtfully explained everything you did, including the design details for various features. All the best to you….. Joel. 👍😎👍

I've built 100's among 100's of clamps, stops and fixtures in my shop including clamps for my production parts that go onto some of my products. After all my years of machining both CNC and Manually I still love to periodically look at your videos. A note for some of those starting out, & doing repeated processes, Get a fat blue sharpie and mark 1 end of your stock (and a small hint of marker on the top surface if you want)so that as you take the part out and reposition it for next step, you always know the way the part went in vice. When you flip a part, & let's say you drop it then you always know which way in sat in the vice. Especially great if you do 1 step at a time for many many many same parts that will have another tooling operation.

Ey up! Joe nice one i love it,thanks for sharing, I am not sure stainless is the best choice whist its strong and corrosion resistant and (Expensive) it is notorious for tearing and galling on sliding fits and screw threads that are regularly screwed up and undone repeatedly without the use of an anti galling compound. the design is excellent. I will make one and probably use EN24T and O1 rod for the shaft,and maybe heat treat it.

I really like that clock. Maybe make a few for sale?

Thanks!

Tools making tools... the best kind of tutorials. Especially with the blooper at the end. I was kind of wondering if the DTI got whacked...

Very useful Joe! I have made some interesting stuff, mostly taught by people like you sharing their experience. Thank You!!

I have watched this video several times because you give critical information for designing clamping features that I have used many times and always been successful. Thank you

Thanks for video! As always a great learning experience. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched it but I learn something each time. I just watched a video where the machinist found a .001 error in the thickness of his parallels. It appeared to be a surprise to the operator. You obviously trust yours but is that a reason to buy quality parallels?

just made one, like you say nice quick project and handy. in the past ive used all sort of contraptions and fixtures. finally you prompted me to make one.... Thanks

Finally got around to making one, I should have made time for it way sooner, I’m already saving time using it- Thanks Joe.

Beautiful work. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)

This was a good one Joe, I became very aware of several things that I had not thought of before... very helpful, thank you Joe!

Could possibly make the block that mounts to the back of the vice and the rod portion of that part two pieces. Thread the block and the end of the rod, then screw them together. Allows for different length rods if needed, or no rod at all without removing the block.

Another great project and video. I am curious why you chose to use the lathe for to bore the block. Wouldn't it be easier on the mill?

Superb... You never use superlatives. You always say nice, good, neat etc. That's so good for a dedicated job. Kudos...

Thanks for the great video Joe! Learned a lot! Especially the tips for working with stainless.

Hi Joe, how would you cut a quarter of a torus on a manual mill?

40:42 Why should the tool pressure be lower near the front of the hole?

Joe thats cool just ordered up some bar stock will let you know how I get on, keep them coming, she,e I don't live near I would never be away lol

Thanks Joe, another masterclass! I changed vices recently and my old stop doesn't fit, you've given me some ideas...

@JoePie Where can I find a clock like that 😀 .....I need that for the garage 👍🏻

I completed mine yesterday, turned out very well. Thanks for the excellent tutorial!

Hi Joe, Just got around to watching this video. Thanks for the shout out. We are delighted you like the boring bar. We are very close to having a 3/4" version available that I believe will be even nicer. Steve

Always a pleasure Joe. No stainless but lots of GR 8 bolts up to 2 in.

Superb video, Joe. Thanks for sharing your experience.

You can thin it with water rust will happen.

I have a similar commercially made stop. Your's has some better features like the stop rod. I need to make some new parts to match.

joe ,,, youve done it again ! to un loosen some thing is to tighten it .... keep it up regards from england i live 50 mile or so from keith appleton .. he lives in yorkshire .. i live in derbyshire.. the dead centre of england laurence

Another excellent video Joe! 😊 Thank you very much

Great stuff. Do you use 3D printed parts for the clock?

Did the test indicator survived? Hoping yes!

Joe it never hurts to have to many VICES. 😜

So many useful tips on a part that seems simple on the surface. Thanks!

I think I posted this on one of your videos before. 304 stainless is in my opinion the most dangerous metal to work with. And not only work hardens but the curls come off as sharp as razor blades I have two fingers that had to get sewn back on well the tips of the fingers anyway all the way down to the end of the fingernail were pulled off like a glove on a lathe. It was the most painful experience of my life and I've broken just about every bone in my body working construction before in younger years. It is such a very important thing to know the metal you're working with understand its characteristics I learned that the hard way. I imagine a curl on a mill could be just as dangerous as on a lathe because it would tend to pull your hand into that Chuck into that bit and it could do all sorts of damage. These machines are not forgiving at all. And don't ever think that you're implying safe techniques because when you think you're being safe is when you're going to get hurt like I did I had a very small curl coming off I didn't notice right away and I should have shut it off when I did notice instead I just flipped it away from my carriage handle with the back of my hand it wrapped around my two fingers while simultaneously getting picked up by the job of a three-jot chuck and sliced my fingers off as if they were pieces of glove. I can no longer play guitar because of this and I never will be able to