This video shows one of many designs for a low clearance slitting saw arbor you can make yourself, and have forever. Patreon Support: / joepie Website: www.advancedin... Web Store: www.advancedin...
I call that "taking the high road" pinning a video from a guy with 40 subscribers because he's upset. I had recently made my own arbor and probably stumbled across this video because of my search history for the damn blade.
Matthew was “F’in pissed”, (his words) he said you copied his arbor, think plagiarized was the word he used. It’s a freaking arbor for heaven’s sake, what is that dudes problem? Great build, keep ‘em coming Joe P
You give excellent info Joe, and I thank you. So here's a tip for you: I use Heat treatment quenching oil as a cutting lubricant. It is designed to have a extremely high flash point so it doesn't smoke when you cut with it. I get it from Brownells and it keeps my basement shop smoke free.
Great job, excellent machinist! I love the way you completed this task with such precision, checking the temperature and cooling down the material. I worked for 4 years as a machinist on conventional machines, surface grinders, and CNC lathes, mostly handling technology, programming, cutting, measuring, and finishing
very much appreciated especially pointing out the technical issues of what to look out for. - like the square inside corner at the seat of the saw blade and how you overcome the issue. great work.
What a great tool holder! Well there is a one advantage lets call it if you put long screw from back and make threads inside the cap.You can put a tailstock center if you are going to use a slitting saw on the lathe.That way you get rigid setup. I know,i know slitting saws arent exactly a lathe tool but beggars cant be choosers and if you got milling attachment its a tool you can use if you are too poor to afford milling machine.
JOE PIE--this comment does NOT go with this video. Your technique for setting an ACCURATE angle on the lathe cross slide is second to none ! A little bit fiddly, but so accurate, and REPEATABLE ! Thank you x 3 Paul P
I'm really glad you made that comment at 3:45 about "chewing sounds". Despite making very accurate arbors ALL of my slitting saws run eccentrically. I suspect the manufacturers are not as careful as we are, tolerance wise, when they grind them! I'll make another one just to see if I can eliminate that effect. Cheers from NZ - your videos are the ultimate mentoring program for us hobbyists.
I've been watching your videos for years, and as usual, another great project Joe . There are so many people out there making videos regarding "machine shop tools/builds/how to's etc. yet only a few are good educators as well. Its a whole new level if you can put your content across in such a way that enables absolutely anyone to be able to understand what you're doing and what you're talking about.
I made one arbor similar many years back, and an old tool and die maker told me to put it into the mill and then true up the face and it will always run true, It definitely worker for me,
Great build! You mentioned heat/expansion and measuring. Here’s a little tidbit that I’ve found useful over the years; Almost everyone can hold something 140F. No one can hold 160F (without smoke😏). Just a quick way to get an idea how hot something is.
Few months ago I needed a low profile arbour for 1" bore cutter. I literally picked up a 7/8" high tensile bolt at the side of the road that had fallen off 'something'.(head markings showed it was HT bolt) (I was getting mail from mailbox!) To make sure things were concentric, I centre drilled both ends and made a centre from a piece of scrap in chuck, live centre in tailstock. Turned off threads to 3/4", turned off hex head then drilled and counterbored to 1" for about 3/4 of head thickness. Threaded 10x1.25 as I do most stuff in metric (50 yrs working on Japanese motorcycles) Made the 1" plug from 1144 I had bought to make low profile arbour.It worked so well I picked up some 5/8" bolts to make smaller arbours for slitting saws ith small bore. Thanks for vid, it has been most useful and saved some cash
Great Project! great to see you give all the conversions to metric for 99.9% of your jobs now, This is great for us using the metric system 'down under' keep up all the great work!
I was given the task of cutting 90 slots inside a dia 1.771" (45mm) bore 0.236" (6mm)deep and 2 3/4" (70mm) long using .020" (0.5mm). I used std 1/3/4' slitting (60T) saws with a 5/8' bore. This was a very challenging job because of two things. The bore was blind and the material was 347 duplex stainless steel. I made an indexing head that was "automatic'. That was the 90 slots solved. The cutter was run on a chain driven (motorcycle cam chain and sprockets to get them small enough) arbour and fitted inside the end of a slotted bar to facilidate the chain. This bar was mounted onto a clamp assembly that attached to our bridgeport mill quill.. The cutter was driven by a chain that was driven by a sprocket in an R8 collet. I think it ran about 120rpm. We had full flow coolant. The first time we ran it in trials it smashed the saw without doing one slot! Not wanted to give up we got some cutters coated with TIN of some sort. That worked better but still only got a few done before it shattered. The cutter was not blunt but something else caused the failure. So I set about making a high pressure oil pump and associated tank and filter and return system. With straight cutting fluid, same as gear cutters used it survived. We then bought another milling machine, adapted our setup for "production" and we ran that machine for some years, each cutter doing between three or four components before replacing. These components were "heater heads" for a stirling engine and the slots were only there to act as a radiator for the heat transfer of the high pressure nitrogen. These components ran at about 900degC at 45bar for as long as 30,000hrs. Each machine had four "heads" on it and we made thousands of heads over the years. We also used the same technique to cut 0.014" slots in a gang of three but 180 slots in total in our cooler part of the engine but these were more like cylinders and had a thru hole of around 55mm. We did these stacked 2 at a time, and cut going, in indexed, cut coming out etc. It was brain teasing stuff. I was lucky to be surrounded by clever mechanical engineers but they valued my "hands on" engineering skills.
A good combination is a clever engineer and a clever machinist who he listens to. Thing happen when they find each other. I bet that was interesting to see.
I've never had the pleasure of using a carbide slitting saw but definitely danced with HSS a lot. My Dad n I used to manufacture LG2 Bronze filters for a steel mill here. Our biggest order was for 1250 pieces. My Dad made my first arbor for me (back in those days I was only on the milling machine, Dad kept me away from the lathe). If my memory is not failing me, 2mm thick 100 tooth 100mm ø. Each filter had 8 slots roughly 50 long n 5mm deep, 10 000 slots in total. I went through that first run with one slitting saw. Depending on the quality of the slitting saw, there is definitely always a bit of run out, I've even had slitting saws where the teeth where not ground to an even depth but the cutting dia ran relatively true. I've exploded one 1.6mm thick when working in steel too, wakes ya up lol. I will definitely remember this arbor design, I'm sure one day it will come in handy. Apropo stainless n tapping, we have a product called Tapmatic here in ZA, it cools n lubricates, wish I could send some to you to try out, curious as to what you'd say, that smurf goop looks like a pain. These days I do a lot of stainless, 304, 316, 431(EN57), N685.
Very good video and a well done saw arbor. Every detail important - and a lot of details on this one. Great idea about doing the final bore with the arbor extended. I think the major reason most people don't like to use the slitting saws is the lack of a good arbor. + This one is certainly a keeper. +
I like that design. Got some saw blades I bought at a yard sale that are really sharp. Going to make that arbor so I can use them. Thanks for the innovation and inspirational video.
I have just realized how little market offer there is for saw arbors, especially for small diameters like 5, 8, and 13mm. Thank you for showing how to make a proper one.
Thank you once again Joe. I made the mill vise stop last week that you did and this weekend I made the slitting saw arbor like yours here, the only difference is I made mine out of 4140 and my blades are .750. I took my time and worked it slow so there was no challenge to the time you did yours in 🤣. It took me probably six or seven hours but I had to turn down a piece of 1.125 4140 to .875 and I was able to hit within a couple of tenths on all my measurements (after I let them cool to room temp and did a finish pass) which is the first time I have been able to consistently do that on a project without having to start over with a new piece.
Joe, as always, your skills and craftsmanship are impeccable. Your arbor configuration is superb. I plan on making myself one following your design. Thank you for sharing.
Great video and project idea. Only thing it's missing is a cross hole or peck on the shaft to help when tightening down blade. Use a pin or spanner wrench to grip shaft? Or is over torque an issue?
Beautifully designed, nice machining & thanks for giving up your time effort in producing this video. Hope you don’t get issues with galling on the close fitting stainless on stainless parts especially considering the environment & use. Wouldn't take much contamination to mess that nice work up. Thanks again for the fantastic video.
@@somebodyelse6673 Hi thanks for your question. Yes it’s absolutely essential to use a high quality anti scuffing paste when fitting stainless threads & close fitting stainless on stainless components. I personally have always used the brand Rocol for this. My concern is more of the neat fitting stainless on stainless sliding components . It would only take a small burr, bruise or contamination for galling those components up. The problem of using anti scuffing paste in this environment/use is that contamination is highly Likely to stick to the paste and so could be working against you when fitting removing cutters/parts. For these reasons I personally believe stainless on stainless in this particular design/environment is not preferable. Beautiful design, its just I personally would be reluctant to use Stainless. Hope this helps.
How about this one Joe? Machine a 1/2-13 flat head hex bolt to 3/8-24 and machine the underside of the bolt to fit the slitting arbor. Take a 3/4" piece of round stock bore a hole to fit the underside of the bolt you just machined and tap it to 3/8-24. Two pieces, 5/16 hex wrench and a very shallow bottom.
Nice design. I've got two arbors,, 1" and 22mm (nearly 7/8", but metric so precisely 22mm) both home-made! At some point, I may redo the cap in this style.
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 yup I plan to as well, I have a little 3” HF carbide tipped blade I want to try, I also cross drilled the opposite end of my existing arbor to accept round tool bits at 90° with a set screw down the CL
Thanks for another great video, it's a neat little almost flush unit and l have a couple of jobs that getting real close to the surface will make it a neater job so lm going to knock up one for myself and am sure l will find more uses for one as l play in my workshop, thanks and keep them interesting videos coming. Martin
I've been watching you great videos for years but somehow missed this one. Would you believe that only 2 weeks ago I had to design a slitting saw arbour to use in conjunction with an Ø85mm x 1.00mm blade to use in a cnc router to do 3D contoured undercuts, i.e. not slotting. So I designed it and am currently getting it made (I don't have a lathe) and now 2 weeks later I see your great video. Almost like a "deja vu" moment. Love your videos.
not sure I could replicate such skill, but I will give it a go on my little Logan lathe. There's nothing better than making tools with my tools! The only problem is I hardly end up using them after I made it.
Perfect - I have several small slitting saws I bought to make slots in cast iron guides for my Startrite bandsaw. I was going to buy an arbour but why bother when I can make one! Thanks for the great video as always!
Hi Joe, thanks for another great video. I never realised those thin slit saw blades are hollow ground. I have a box full of oil pump back plates I need to cut transfer galleries in so i was going to have to make myself an arbor like this. The video is a great help. May I ask a question a little off topic? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. A customer has asked if I can rebore a two stroke motorcycle barrel. Do you think that this would be possible using my Bridgeport and a Lushington boring head? An old toolmaker showed me a great trick to assure concentricity in milling arbors. If a lathe tool is mounted in a vice on the table and the arbor in the quill you can effectively turn the arbor in situ. I've used this trick a few times and it does work. Thanks again.
As a 30+yr veteran of performance engine building, a "jig boring" machine is the proper machine because a mill doesn't have accurate enough perpendicularity. If it's for something low end like say a generator you could get by with a well trammed mill.
Nice job with this project! One thing I would suggest is to cut two flats into the cap. The threads will tighten up a lot during use, making it hard to unscrew the cap screw. Flats will give you something to grip it with.
I bought some slitting saws of ebay, because, well I know I'd need 'em one day! actually, i need to watch some videos on slitting saws, cause i haven't got a clue! :) however, i definitely know that I need some arbors to go with the saws! thanks for this!
I used to do similar stuff (before CNC's) with a cross slide rotary table on the mill table in combination with a Volstro offset rotary milling head on the quill. It allowed you to mill around a part cutting angles and tangent radii all around. Took some focus to keep your head straight......not sure I could do it today.
Don't remember what the part was exactly, but it had several different angles with tangent radii. Probably was part of a fixture or stamping die@@joepie221
I like using 20mm linear rail to make these. The inside of those is much softer than the outside so it's quite nice to more and tap but you still get a nice tough tool.
The extra toughness on the OD would certainly be a nice feature. Disclaimer: Any similarity in subject matter between the topic of this video and the recent struggles of any other RU-vid channel creator, is purely coincidental.
Love your videos Joe, you have been a great help to my learning of lathe operation. In this video you checked for runout in the part in the collet chuck. I’m wondering how you would have corrected it if had not already been perfect!
If any indicator movement showed up, I'd remove the part and thoroughly clean everything. Second thing I would do is 'Unloosen" the part ans rotate it slightly before locking it down. Finally, I'd lightly tap it with a hammer to see if it would move.
Similarly, when turning the o/d of a thin wall tube - Ramming the bore with a Wet rag or Wet Paper Towel, makes it like turning Solid Bar stock with no "Chatter".
Joe to eliminate the radiused corner where the saw blade seats, could you machine the shaft a thou or 2 deeper into the clamping face? Seems this is far less risky. ( this comes from my doubts about me being precise enough to use an eye loop to position the tool)
Hi Joe, Nice job. I've made arbour for odd size holes as well but the usual way with the reduced diameter on the main section, and generally leave the cutter on the arbour, so they are cutter specific. Seems like you were the victim of that well known photographer "Otto Focus". It's also made worse when you're in close and the aperture large as the depth of field is reduced. Increasing lighting levels may help. Regards Dennis.
For blades having small holes, like a 6 mm hole, almost 1/4", integrating the screw to the cap and milling off the outermost bar for a wrench feels like possible. Just need to figure out how to get concentricity from the shaft/shank out to the blade. Use the 4 jaw chuck or wait for the ER32 collet chuck travelling on the ocean...
If you are doing these videos as a guide for another RU-vid channel make sure to say "as is tradition" when facing off and "yahtzee" when parting off... lol. Great video though, made my own years ago and had to learn about the sharp inside corner all by myself. A valuable lesson...
@@joepie221 hadn't noticed it actually... just noticed a trend in your topics. Would like to see a video (series) about how you would approach the machining of those castings, as there are many ways to get the desired results.
Quinn wouldn't be the only YT'er I've seen lately have to work around a "clunky" arbor! As she was hacksawing through to finish the cut, I was wondering if we'd see a "Make an arbor" video! We all come out the better! There's always someone with a different perspective and more experience than ourselves; I do wonder about Robin Renzetti however!
Sort of off topic question from old hobbiest. While making an arbor the center drill hole 1/4x20 (about 1" deep) went off center more than acceptable. I was looking for suggestions on how to correct if possible. I have enough arbor material to select the next size bolt if needed. I guess I could put in mill facing up, find proper center and use end mill to try to correct then tap the new larget size bolt. I even thought of a helicoil, but have never use one before so no idea if it would work or not.
Unloosen! Joe, I would say slacken! Looks like I'm gonna have to fly over to Tx and teach you proper Ozzie English. But, I'll forgive you, for a very useful tip. Thanks.
Very interesting. I do have a question, not a criticism, just a question. Any reason to not use 1/4-28 rather than 1/4-20? For the same torque you would get more clamping force.
Joe Pieczynski that’s what I guessed. And nothing wrong with it either. I have seen too many times where over engineering caused unintended consequences.
