That axe turned out quite nice. If you make another you should give the buyer the option to have a curved or straight handle. Most firefighters I know that carry an axe opt for a straight handle since they tend to use the spike more often than the axe face.
That axe looks amazing and the handle is perfect! 👌 I love the way you've made the box, so you could use the box to display the axe when you aren't using it. Absolutely fantastic work and I hope she goes for a great price 😊👍👍👍👍👍
Love it! I'd love to see you do a small 1912 ball-pein hammer with what you've got left. I love the bigger tools...but I use my small tools more than anything these days. Keep up the awesome work! (loving my 2 pound cross-pein hammer BTW)
1921 Carpenter's Hammer? Or hatchet? I've long been fascinated by the hatchet featured in Happy People: A Year in the Taiga. Here's a link to a scene of it in a lot of use: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fbhPIK-oBvA.htmlsi=-v5YSwhjqGjMvfcD&t=420 The flare, the hammer end, the flat blade. Thing I've never seen all brought together. But the things this man can do with the tool!
You really out did yourself on this one Tim. Beautiful work and story telling, really enjoyed feeling like a fly on the wall to the creative process. Thanks for sharing with us.
Wow! As a firefighter both blue and red card certified, that's a really nice looking axe! Thank you for taking time to forge, film, edit and post this video.
Honest question and I cant believe I have asked before, why do you grind off the pointy edges at the beginning before forge? Wouldn't you just pound that out on the hammer?
Wonderful video!! I wish you(or any hammer man) would do a video/ series of power hammer tooling(how to make and use). I’ve been at the anvil for 40 years now doing door hardware. Joints are starting to show that and have started doing way more of the work using the power hammer and tooling. New way of thinking for me and would greatly appreciate help. Cheers, Jamie Tyree(US of A)
I'm a late comer to your channel, love the different projects. I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in the auction results.... How about posting some final numbers!
I like it better with the rough and raw forge texture.. with only the blade ground.. It just looks great.. When you grind everything, it just makes it look manufactured and kinda takes away that "Forged" look that I love so much.
It seems a good 1912 one off axe to make is a Pulaski. The US forest service started using them in 1913. So a 1912 stamp on one would fit the timeline...
Great video Tim , amazing job you did there , your workmanship and attention to detail is outstanding . Love to have a go making an axe one day . Here in New Zealand there are Kelly axes that have made in Canada on them -good axes . All the best maté from one Tim to another 👍
Retired firefighter here and that is a beautiful axe! How many hours did that actually take from start to finish? I am sure that there is a lot of the process edited out of your video. Is it multiple days in the shop ?
For sure keep going with the one of's. Need a sweet double bit axe next, maybe with a high carbon steel bit to get the differential hardened line. Not sure if you can get that with the train rail or not
That is an awesome piece of merch, my man. Beautiful, stylish, practical yet brutish and Powerful. Your skills are really well developed, not only the smith side, but presentation is off the scale. Been watching since yonks back, but this is some master level work.
Very interesting and also relaxing video, thanks! 😄 One question though: Why are there no windows in your shop? Wouldn't a bit of natural light be nice while you work all day?
absolutely not. forging is done in dark shops so you can see if the metal is hot by the glow and can judge the temperature of the metal by the color and intensity. adding light to that would skew everything. it's an issue that comes up a lot when metal gets worked around windows of it being overheated because the metal must get much hotter to see the glow. so, the darkness is necessary for consistent metal working.
