Patrol has both, air cooled infront of airconditioning condenser & radiator base. Not sure of flow though, which the oil hits first. My preference would be air cooler first to take away extreme heat before entering radiator base. Only draw back, I see, if you have an incident damaging radiator base, oil & water can mix, not good for trannie.
@@Sethjxl I totally agree 100% regarding accident/incident damage stuffing a trannie. I'm not in favour of air cooler only though. Nor am I in favour of just a radiator base cooler only, however that is how most cars are manufactured to my understanding. I like both and on previous cars I have added the additional air cooler, in line prior to radiator cooler. Was truly surprised to discover the Patrol had both from manufacturer, Nissan. Why I prefer both is I utilise my Patrol in an extremely cold winter climate, I'm a bit keen on the oil going back into the trannie moderately warmed by the radiator section rather than ice cold from an air cooler only. I realise this is less than ideal in a truly hot climate but the best compromise for general touring. Hence why I prefer it passes thru air cooler first to take extreme heat out of oil before reaching radiator base cooler, trying to avoid radiator cooled water being reheated by extreme oil heat prior to returning to engine block. I believe this is the best compromise. In this circumstance, I'd retain radiator cooler + add air cooler prior.
Future tip for when cutting out squares like you did in that panel. Always drill all 4 corners, that way your cut will never pass your line and go beyond your marking
@Roam Lyfe - those eBay thermos will die the minute they hit any decent water...I learnt the hard way with exactly the same ones! You'll get water, dirt, sand etc into it and it'll just seize up and die. They only lasted 1 trip to the 4WD park. Get yourself some proper IP68 rated SPAL fans; they aren't too expensive if you get them through trucking/aircon etc companies and will provide more CFM.
Really enjoying this build mate. Seeing the extent you go to to do things properly while also making it look good is great to see and sets a good example to people wanting to do the same thing. Keen as to see the 4JJ roar to life soon. Keep up the grouse content
This engine is looking absolutely stunning now. The craft you're showing is just incredible Tom. All this while working full time & doing the family thing is super impressive mate. All the best to you, loving this build. 👏🙏👍💪
just a quick one, consider running the thermos with an over-ride switch so that during long deep water crossings you can switch the fans off and not risk damaging the fans or the rad. or even a 3 way on-auto-off switch depending how fancy you want to go. and as a few others have said... external trans cooler for sure you will thank yourself later especially if you plan on doing heaps of towing or leaning on it offroad... other tha that dude its mint! i love the alloy shroud idea to clean things up thats fantastic
I just ran Aeroflow stainless hard lines down the passenger side chassis rail and crossed over at the centre chassis support beam. 1/2” for the feed. Saves having fuel hoses wrapping across the engine bay like that or near the dump pipe on the hot side.
man every episode gets me more an more keen to rebuild my rc colorado into something fun. need to rebuild the funds first after having just built my chopped 105 tourer.
@@rustystarfishadventures yeah I’m considering doing the SAS but also thought about making it a race car too. Selling it isn’t worth my time or money I paid way more than I should have so at this point I’m looking at it as a blank canvas I’ve already got.
Hey mate, do yourself headache down the track and ditch those 80w ebay fans. Get some good 2500-3000 or higher cfm spal fans. That's the only way you will get away with using Thermos on the sand. Learn from my mistakes. 🙂
Hey man, yea like people have been saying piss off those fans. I tried eBay fans in my ls patrol. The only thing I built that I didn’t think to myself will these last the cape. I ended up with au fans, one they are everywhere! Any corner of Aus you got you’ll find a set. Secondly, well they are pretty dang good for 50$
Man, you have just made my day. At 14.33 I noticed your Ti has a genuine thermo fan forward of A/C condenser. My 2016 ST (purchased new) has the mounting studs, no fan. I just presumed Australian models missed out. I assume that cuts in with A/C compressor clutch taking away portion of additional heat generated. Any knowledge would be appreciated. Will have to track one down.
Hi mate, I'm doing the same conversion at the moment. Can you please tell me the ebay listing of that radiator and the part number of the pump you're using?
Mine copes fine, works as required, never noticed any issues, never noticed any heat after winching and switching off. Will need to keep an eye on it, apparently.
@@ianweal3081 depends on ur winches current draw, and how stuck stuck u are. Some winches draw like 450-500amps. I think ud wanna be using a isolator rated no less than 500 amps constant with a intermitten peak, with decent cabling.
@@ianweal3081 depends on the winch and what winching you are doing, i put one in expecting me to kill it, and yep killed it. they are just not rated for the high constant load.
Hey, mate. What do you mean by engines don't like hot fuel? Diesel is lightflowing when hot, and ignites best at 60 degree Celsius.... Just a tip. Petrol is the opposite.
Please revise your catch can, you want a can that will create a vacuum in the crank case as this will ensure your oil quality etc. if I was you I would do some research on the purpose of PCV valves (it’s not just for emissions)
@@RoamLyfe yeh righteo I wasn't sure where factory 4J ECUs were situated. Awesome work too btw, great to see something different instead of Barra/LS/Kettle42 conversions.
@@scottlowe4566 kettle42’s, WTF 😳.. There Grouce engines yeh, Reliable AF & a bigger turbo’n cooler’n tune they scoot along & mine has never gotten hot. Me last engine i decided to replace it for peace a mind & that had 996k & it was faultless & me engine now has 400k & so far it’s been faultless too & that’s run’n 20psi BorgWarner turbo.. & out here in west of Bourke nsw it’s stink’n hot 42-46+ deg out here & tow’n me big 2 axel box trailer with 3 450 dirt bikes & plus gear & tools, doing 110-120k’s AC on full bore she’s sweet even towing through the Coonabarabran range she’s all good 83-84-5 deg… The ones that get hot have head gasket problems & or piston drama’s. Or it’s some P plater morons try’n to make a dirty old school diesel engine into a race engine & wonder why they boil’n snap cranks, every engine has its limits with to much power…. The only better engine is the 1hdfte best 4.2 engine ever made that’s the only engine i’d ever chuck in me GU Coily Ute….
@@RoamLyfe might get lucky with how it bolts to the 4j, but with the zd the re4 comes out easy but doesn't go in easy. Gotta rotate it to the right to get everything to line up but the tunnel is in the way. So most pull the engine and some bash the tunnel to make clearance. Just thought id let you know because it's high chance of being a unseen issue. DCA might be able to let you know for certain
Wouldn’t personally run that catch can on a 4j you’ll cause yourself more head aches than it’s worth just run a hose to your chasis rail once engineered
please please please make new brackets for the cover that you have mounted your catch can and stuff to, maybe weld a bracket to the backside of the plate and rivnut the bottom of it on the inside of the plate it would look 1000x better.
Still time to do that, the thread was already in the patrol for the bolt holding it down, and also the riv nuts sit proud so a bracket using them never sits flush on it! I can’t really mount them behind the plate as the bottle is there and it’s tight
Yeah I'd put 2 pissy 3 litre Nissan motors back in there and one more in the back seat and tow a trailer with another one just to make sure I got home😂😂
