While turning straight shafts on the lathe you should be using an 80deg insert and helps to have a chip breaker on the tool... i know your on a smaller lathe and dont have as much torque but it would deff benefit the machine and lasts alpt longer so benefits the wallet as well.. seeing that spray cheese comin from the part instead of broken crackers made me cringe a lil!!
Turn the cone out of a piece of hex stock and leave a section of hex under the cone. This will let you clamp the hand vise in another vise in one of six positions.
Nice dude. You can never go wrong with being able to index a thing in another thing at an approximately known relative angle. And being a hand vice I'm sure the hex stock is going to be an obvious advantage despite the limited precision of the stock.
This dudes voice and style of explaining things is the best part of the videos, so soothing lol. 3k views and 300 likes is way too low and rude of viewers not to like after watching. IMO. 👍👍👍👍👍
A polite suggestion - for coating wood, try Pale Boiled Linseed Oil - dries fast and provides a superior comfort and grip and protective qualities to wood. Not expensive either :)
Nice video! An easy Tipp for you, when you are pening the brass pins (or whatever pins you might be using in the future) drill you hole and then drill a little countersink on both sides so when you are mushrooming it over the material will spread and it will be a lot safer in there. Keep going with your projects. Always a pleasure to watch!
One thing you can do with jewellers vices is have a hole that runs all the way through the tool and is open at the bottom of the handle. Having a hole run through the center opens up more options for use.
You can turn almost anything into a suitable scraper for woodturning, old files, etc. A small or medium sized round nose scraper will see you through most basic wood turning projects without much time to learn how to get good results. Just be careful about too much stick out and engagement if you are using something brittle.
Cool idea with the superglue (16:08). Handy tip for turning resilient materials... Try tossing it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Be careful with the mount as metal will expand as it warms up, but latex based compounds generally expand as you cool them down.
An interesting project would be a ball vice. I'd use a basketball rigged up with ducttape in a wooden fre, cut a funnel hole and add some mesh, then vast some bent threaded bar in place with concrete. From there, you can trim and add a threaded sleeve to attach the jewellers or other vices. Cut a tapered hole in a short wooden stool of desired height to sit on the bench top and you'll have a sturdy base
I have one of the exact type of jeweller's hand vise you made. Then only thing I wished is that the jaws weren't locked in place, where they could rotate to accommodate different shapes and to hold square parts of different sizes since the large the jaws are open, the more crooked they are.
@@Avram42 even just having the jaws not locked in place and being able to pivot would help too. A parallel linkage would be pretty cool but a bit more work. My favorite type of hand vises are the "machinist" style, basically like a tiny bench vise on a handle but they are hard to find and the used ones I found on eBay a pretty expensive for what they are. I've been thinking about machining one, they're not that complicated to make.
As a machinist that works with stainless for a living, including 316 and the super duplex SAF like 2205 and 2507. It's funny watching you able to only do .5mm cuts when I'm so used to ripping 10-12mm cuts on it. Great video anyway man keep up the great work
nice job! I suppose you just change the angle you machine on the face on the jaw if you are looking to clamp material of a uniform size. You could even make little jaw plate inserts tapered at different angles to swap out if you wanted to.
Thank you so much for all your work and the content you create. It is very useful informative material. Also thank you so much for all your help in general.
I have never seen a half-center before. What stops it from drilling like a d-bit? Can these be used with steel? Over 30 years of machining, I've never seen such a helpful and simple tool
I like how that one came out. brilliant job👍if I may give a tip. at the part you had the clamp levers glued together to drill the holes, this is where a vice position stop would come in handy a simple article slotted to fit on the jaw of your miĺls vice grub screw to lock it in place any position to work in conjunction with your parallels. reference to Joe Piezinski from Austin Texas, Advanced Innovations being his machine shop business. i have made my stop recently
I doubt it was just the center drill, the glue would be quite weak after all the heat buildup when sanding... Heat destroys CA. terrific video and project though!
Hi, about case hardening - there is a great stuff, named "KASENITE" - it is great for fast, surface hardening of steel pieces. It introduces both carbon and nitrogen to surface, I found it very useful in my workshop - you need only a burner and cooling agent (usually water). It is hard to get it now, but I think it is worth to try.
Nicely done. Would it have been better to only put 1 pin on each jaw so they can rotate and be parallel even with something clamped between? Or would that have caused issues?
I enjoyed your video, but why on earth did you fix the jaws to the arms? 🤔 If you used pivot pins on the jaws they could stay parallel when gripping different sized objects.
Nice project as always - I didn't realise they were (relatively) straight forward to make and I've been lusting after one for some time. With regard to the jaws, shouldn't they hinge? I wonder because unless you're gripping something very thin they're going to be bell-mouthed if they are perpendicular to the arms?
I made this to hold a specific thickness of stock with these jaws so when they are parallel they will be holding the stock correctly. Normally you would want to make it slightly convex.
I've got one of these and can testify to its usefulness. Mine is old - 50 years plus I'd say - with no manufacturer's name, so with every appearance of being home-made, and bought for next to nothing from a market stall. It doesn't have a wooden handle - the cone is just extended downwards, with a neck cut out for ease of use and knurling on the remainder to give some grip. That extra weight in the handle I suspect also improves the balance in the hand. I don't think rotating jaws are a good idea - these hand clamps are mostly used for very small parts and it would be irritating to have the jaws moving away from the part as you're trying to grip it. A very slight convex is possible, but mine just meet at the end - they're parallel at about 5 mms separation, and that works well. I'm also not so sure about stainless - very hard and liable to mark parts in soft materials such as brass, aluminium alloy etc. Mine is a very soft steel, which is less prone to that, and has acquired a lovely patina over the years, which stainless is never going to do :¬) It does have a vertical V groove in one jaw, which is essential for holding rods and pins. The pivot pins are also steel, not brass, just peened over like rivets after assembly.
Very nice project, mate. But please build a yourself a dedicated disc sander. You will always get grit on the lathe guideways and you will regret it afterwards.
Cheers, once I get a bigger place there might be space for one. As for now this works, as long as I clean all the grit off. Anyway it's a $600 lathe so I don't mind doing stuff like this on it.
Maybe I missed it, but if you milled a small V into the opposite face of the jaws it could be reversible to hold onto round material. I guess you'd have to sacrifice the sleek form factor, but you'd have additional function.
Mate, you need a welder. That should be your next purchase, a multiprocess welding machine that can do MiG, DC TiG and MMA. It'll be one of the most useful pieces of kit you have.
I absolutely hate trying to drill, machine or work stainless steel, I've never tried and not broken bits or blades working with it and so I have come to just use 5150 steel or other hardenable and make sure to oil or paint it after I'm done. I live in the Southeast US and to say we have high humidity is an understatement.
8:52 no hard and fast rule about this, but for a part that narrow, there's not real reason to have so much extension on that fly cutter, it doesnt need to be set for the maximum possible flycut diameter. With the cutter set way back, you have much less of an eccentricity in the load, and machine performance should go up slightly and vibration go down, but if the mill is rigid enough i suppose its not a problem. Looks like a ton of stickout though.
Hi, you might have answered this in a previous video, but what CAD program do you use, and what did you do to learn the program? I've tried using Free CAD, but I really struggled to graps it. I know a lot of people use Fusion, but I've always been worried about being charged to use it. Thanks
I use Solidworks and CATIA to do my modelling, mostly because that is what I have been taught to use, though they don't come cheap. Fusion seems to be the best free alternative for hobby users. Never used free cad.
Nice work but the cone and jaws weren't hardened and ground. I sometimes have to make specialized tools also and I do make allowances for hardening and then grinding.
the press fit of the bolt pins in the clamping jaws, etc. would have been a lot easier if you had put the bolts and the screw in the freezer for 24-48 hours and heated the counterparts to 200 - 250 degrees, the cooled metal parts shrink a little due to the cold and the heated ones expand then lie down insert the pin or screw and wait the heat causes the pins and screw to expand again and the cold cools the holes down again so that you don't have to force the pins in.
I've often wondered if the traditional shaped file Handle was the most comfortable or some new shape we haven't considered yet. I've considered some hammer Handle shapes not so comfortable, what do guys think?
I would have thought the jaws would only have 1 pin each so they can rotate to keep themselves parallel. It seems that with 2 pins each, they are only parallel when completely closed. Is this how they are intended to be? (Iwatch a lot of "Tested", but don't recall if I have seen the handheld vise.
Чувак! У тебя недочет с "губками" зажима, при любом угле раскрытия они длжны быть всегда параллельными. Иначе площадь косония при максимальном радиусе фиксируемого объекта, минимальна. У меня подобный инструмент 1973 года выпуска "ЧТЗ" инструментального сеха. "Губки" подвижны и всегда параллельны относительно зажимаемого объекта.
The data sheet i run off lists the elasticity mild as 190 gpa and hss as 205/210gpa. To be fair I probably don't notice much of a difference on this scale of work. Cheers
@@artisanmakes HSS is within 5% of mild steel. Thats close to the margin of error for measuring it. "Young’s modulus of elasticity of high-speed steel - AISI M2 is 200 GPa." In all steels(aka iron alloys), rigidity comes primarily from cross section. The base material is still mainly iron and the iron to iron bonds are what determines stiffness. Alloying elements are not usually enough to change that much. I mention it just because people think high tensile steel is "stiffer" than mild steel but that amounts to only a few percent, if that. Increasing the section of mild steel a few thou will equal any HSS in stiffness. Case in point: People think racecar frames are made of 4130 steel because it is stiffer and it is not. What it does, is have the ability to bend further before permanent damage occurs but it still bends the same under the same loads. Motorcycle frames can replace 4130 steel with aluminum which has only 1/3 the stiffness of steel but it's lightness allows a much larger section to get the stiffness back.
I use solidworks which I use outside of hobby work. I know they have a makers version for $10 a month but I don't know how similar it is to proper solidworks. There is also fusion 360 which a lot of people use. It is good software but I personally don't like it.
