In this video I finish the upper die and nd make the first real part Instagram Link: / craigsmachineshop Please direct all correspondence to: Craig's Machine Shop 2753 E. Broadway Rd Ste. 101-PMB416 Mesa, Az 85204-1570
@@EZ_shop Che Fico! ?? Sorry, I haven't had a chance to practice Italian for like 25 years. I really miss speaking in Italian, its my favorite language and people.
Wow, Craig! Io sono nella tua stessa situazione. Sono qua da trenta anni, ma non conosco molti italiani da queste parti. L'unica pratica che faccio e' quando chiamo i miei genitori. Uno di questi giorni dovrai raccontarmi la tua storia. Ciao, Marco.
@@EZ_shop I actually understood most of that, LOL. I just wish I know how to write in Italian. At least you get to practice with your parents. You still write pretty good after 30 years. I was learning Spanish from 14-18 years old at work in LA. I worked at a very international hotel in Florida and was learning like 7 languages. Italian was easy to learn because of how similar it is to Spanish. I mainly learned from female customers because the guys wanted to learn English, the women didn't seam to care about learning. An Italian lady named Sabrina use to cut my hair. I basically spoke in Italian-Spanish. I spoke in Italian and if I didn't know the word in Italian I said it in Spanish. LOL
Very cool. If you just needed various holes 1/2 inch to 2 1/2 inches in 16 gauge mild steel 8 x 8 inches, what would you use? I have been thinking a plasma cutter on a cross fire CNC.
Ive made a lot of press dies for automotive applications either to recreate something or for custom builds. If its going to be a die im going to use for production I will make it out of steel but if its just a one and done i might use aluminum. This is a good looking piece you made but it probably could have been made out of lazer/plasma cut plate a lot faster. Each step up/ down could be its own piece welded on to a base plate. Not trying to criticize your work or anything, it turned out very nice... just trying to add some helpful info for any that might need it.
Thanks! The aluminum dies I made are holding up surprisingly well. I will probably make future ones out of steel though since I will be going to a 50 tom press. Thanks for the tip on the laser/plasma! I will have to consider that if I decide to remake/make new. Maybe no welding required if major shapes are laser and minor pockets are machined.
Hi, I have limited my use of laser cutting companies due to lead time and price. I cut most of my stuff on my mill. I will try to make a video next time I have some stuff laser cut. It's pretty simple though. You just make a DXF file in Fusion 360 and send it to a laser company and they send you a quote. I create my own nests in a free program called MyNesting. I think you pay like $7 to be able to export the nest. You don't need to nest it though. I just do it so see how many parts I can get on a sheet.
Hello Craig, it's an impressive work! I'd like to try myself to do it 🙂 Do you know how much pressure you finally use to do it? And so do you yave an idea of the maximum thickness you can work with your 12 ton press? Thank you for sharing these experiences..
@@craigsmachineshop2040 I would definitely make some test with aluminium.. but 16 gouge steel is already very interesting! Do you make some test with blank holder? The mould is more complicated but I guess it can produce more complex parts..
For a die theres really not alot of need to polish it sense its aluminum, it will wear in lol. If it was a mold that would be a completely different story. Wouldnt hurt to bead blast it though.
No need to polish. The aluminum is softer than the steel it is forming so it doesn't leave any real marks. I am just using a 12 ton Harbor Freight press.
Surprisingly nice how the sheet metal came out. Can you give some "numbers" information? I have some questions: 1. What is the first tool you were using? I thought tormachs don't handle those well. I just got my 1100s, (I bought the superfly cutter) Feed and speed for that? 2. What is the second end mill you used? Feed and speed? 3. What is the thickness of the sheet metal? Is it mild steel? Thanks. :)
Thanks! Its the Tormach 38 mm Facemill. If I'm just facing off a little I prefer it. I didn't really like the vibration of the single insert tooling. Maybe its ok but I'm just looking out for the long term performance of the mill. The Superfly makes me nervous without an enclosure also. I was running it at 3500 RPM at 50 IPM I think. The 2nd tool was a 3/8 3 flute rougher. I always run it at 7000 RPM and 63 IPM. The sheet metal is 16 gauge cold rolled steel
If you wanted to make it on power press how its gonna work. And i have trim the outer edges and bend this same product and lesser degree. How will it be done
looks great! I looking for a similar tool, can you help me to figure out the requested punching force based on your experience? material 0.8 mm stainless steel, total embossing length about 3000 mm. depth of embossing is very similar like yours +/- 5 mm, slope about 10 mm width
I would like to see you making a can! Is that much harder? (a lot more force required I imagine) Think like the bottom half of a x1/4 model of a coke can
Tried it once, the material broke. Not as easy as this. It requires a more complex tool due to the drawing of the material. It's referred to as deep drawing.
I specialize in designing and building deep-draw dies. A typical can for packaging food is skinny, probably 0.2-0.3 mm thick. The cardinal principle is that metal should 'flow'; it must not stretch for, stretching leads to material failure. The cans are more than twice as tall as the diameter. Therefore, they cannot be drawn in a single pass. Multiple draws are expensive. Therefore, cans have a separate piece at the bottom and a rolled body with seam welding at the joint. In drawing operation, the thinner the material, the more difficult it is for the draw. Thin stock can easily fold over itself leading to wrinkling during drawing if the pressure holding the blank isn't enough. This part is very shallow and therefore didn't pose any problem. Here the punch and die had similar shape, the only difference being stock thickness. But you will be surprised to know that in deep drawing the punch only need to be the shape of the final article; the die is just a cylinder hole of appropriate size - die doesn't shape the part.
