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Can a 10 ton hobbyist press bend 1mm cheap steel sheets (with 6 cm depth)? Or should I buy a 15 ton press? The shape is not like a square profile, it is more like an oval profile; so corners should not be a problem in my opinion. Sorry if my question lacks any detail, I am a clueless student, any help would be appreciated.
NIce job. Before watching this video, I would have said that the final result using aluminum wouldn't be usable. You proved me wrong. Good luck on your final tool.
I've never used a cnc machining centre so not sure if this is relevant, but when milling you want to go in the opposite direction of the cutting tool to prevent "climbing" where the milling cutter runs along the work piece, often resulting in broken cutters. If you've ever experienced this, I hope this helps. Great video by the way.
Thanks for the comment. I was always told that you didn't have to worry about conventional milling when machining with a CNC mill so I just went with that. Your comment got me to look deeper into the topic and got a lot of useful information from Tom's Techniques. From my understanding from his video and other videos, climb milling leaves a better surface finish on finish passes since it isn't rubbing when it enters the part and extends tool life for the same reason. It looks like climb milling only becomes a problem when taking larger cuts with a smaller machine, when there is less rigidity in the workholding or when there is backlash with the ball screws. I had no problem taking larger cuts in A2 while climb milling recently, So I am assuming that it is ok with my mill. Maybe it has something to do with the precision ball screws or the fact that it is controlled by stepper motors. I will probably go with servos on my next mill since they keep track of where the table/head are. My Tormach with steppers can lose steps so I have to be careful not to be too aggressive. Thanks!
Ciao Marco. Thanks! I still have to machine the 3/16" and 1/4" tamper proof covers. This is to make my regular covers more professional. The original manufactures usually form them.
That worked nicely. I've made a couple of homemade round dies for the ends of a model engine fuel tank and the ends of a small steam boiler. Also experimenting with making a die for the intake manifold and bypass cover for my little single cylinder two stroke engine. I believe that the old Brown Jr model airplane engine used pressed steel parts for these parts.
Hello sir thanks for very excellent information video sir what kind of metal that you made die what is name of metal i want to make some punching die so
@@craigsmachineshop2040 I should have said oil intensifier. Its a device that takes shop air to power a hydraulic cylinder, which gives you higher operating pressures/forces and more rigid control. I assumed you were using one based on the fact you said you were using air
I was going to make one with 4 pins but I have a base with 2 pins. I am going to try to make that work. I got some springs but didn't figure on the weight of the upper die pushing the springs down too much. LOL I ordered some new springs that should work. Thanks!
@@craigsmachineshop2040 sounds like your headed in the right direction, it really wouldn't matter much for what your doing sense the part is symmetrical, but it's a good idea and a industry standard to have a offset pin so the a and b side of the die cant be turned in any other direction, just a thought for down the road though. If you have any questions hit me up I mainly work in the injection molding industry but do some die work, and many of the same principles apply.
Yeah, I see your point. I have just been drilling a small shallow hole in the left front edge of the fixture plates and dies to know how to put them on. LOL I guess I should be more professional about it for when I get employees. Injection molding, wow cool! I appreciate it!
The result looks great. Was there a bit of warping on the outside of the steel? Thanks for showing the test and I look forward to seeing the "real" one!
Great video! I want to do exactly this, but with a much deeper impression (about 30mm). How much force was required for this? What's your hydraulic press rated to?
I am curious about spring back. Did you have a print with dimensions that you needed to hold to? Was the bottom flat surface actually flat on the part once it was removed from the die? If it is not what adjustments would you make to your die?
Good explanation, and demonstration. I was searching for info for pressing steel mesh (Opening 0.097") into microphone grill shells. Thanks for good tutorial.
How would a guy go about making a large set of dies for say an automotive quarter panel if he wanted to do so? (Let's say an original donor piece that he was wanting to duplicate in good shape)
@@craigsmachineshop2040 thank you Craig for your time and response. I know it would take quite a press to stamp out the panels and they ARE long quarters but they're 18 gauge steel, not near as heavy as what you have there. I know that with modern technology a CNC could be programmed to make such a contour from a program easily if a guy had deep pockets...but how was it done in the 60's & 70's? Would it literally require a block of steel for the top tool and bottom die the dimension thickness of the quarter itself? Let's take a 68' Charger quarter for example with the long coke bottle shape. The only thing I've seen was the equipment we had at an aircraft business i used to work for. We made fuselages and the floors for commercial planes. They made tool and dies for those but we were making composites similar to fiberglass.
Very cool- I'm going to need to do this for a uni project. On the topic, have you tried forming a structure into the die? Like the X they used to put on tin gas cans for strength?
Hi, how much tonnage do you think it would take to press 2mm aluminium, I think that's 14 gauge in your language.. to form a "joggle" or countersunk relief for creating a lap joint along the edge of a sheet for riveting purposes? The length of the die, press tool, could be around 6" long by 3/4" wide... I am wondering if an "Arbor Press" would be sufficient? Also at 5:40 in the clip , your using a very nice looking guillotine , what make and style is the?? thanks Paul, Mullumbimby, Australia.
Hard to say on the tonnage. I would think 12 tons would be more than enough. Not sure about an arbor press. 12 ton presses are like $140 here in the states. The shear is a 12" diacro.
Awesome video 👍🏼 could you please list some parameters for this or point me in the direction of a source that does. I'm trying to make dies which press aluminium into little toy boats! ⛵
What about a die that could be used to put "v" or "u" shaped groves in small sheet metal pieces. Instead of rolling them in they could just be pressed. I'd be interested in that to purchase
If I created a steel die for making an aluminum part that is 1/4" thick, would it be possible to sqeeze a plate of 1/2" thick material with a double pocketed die, and have the aluminum sort of flow into the die kind of like playdough in order to completely fill the die? I know nothing about this and am trying to figure out if I can stamp the part I've been working on or if I should mold it with liquid aluminum.
Sounds like that would need some extreme pressure. Depending on the qty you are going to make, either machining for lower qty or casting (molten) for higher qty.
"Crash form" with no real material control or restriction. In the real world this is done using nitrogen and a pressure pad in the center of the lower form, and in a lot of cases "draw beads" to further control material flow. Nice video none the less.
maybe someday you can explain the spotting procedure (you know the oil-based blue color procedure during the try-outs) of deep drawing and stamping tools. Cool channel tho !! :D
Hey Sean! Thanks! Yeah, using it nearly every day. Need to make some more videos one of these days. Doing Ok considering the times. Hope all is well with you!
thanks for helping, you've just take me out of lot of pains !! i think i'm gonna do it with dremel , i don't have a cnc milling machine i know it's not realy precise but it's all i have !! but please if u remember the mesurements and the dimensions about the test die could u put it on the comment! i will understand if it's not possible !! thanks
Craig....I have been looking for 3 years now to find a press die for a small corrugated stainless steel blade. The small size is what is a problem. The stainless is quite thin. Do you do any custom jobs? bearsrus@mit.midco.net Thank you
@@craigsmachineshop2040 As it is used in my shop. It refers to tools and dies that are used to form a piece of metal to a shape that would be 2 or 3 setups on normal tool and dies.
If you are making a hole then your punch is too big and need to be reduced or the die needs to have a lead in of slightly rounded edges to stop the material cutting a hole.
Never did any die work. AMAZING! I would have thought you would have needed the exact shape to get the nice rounded corners. Wonder how much it pulled the material in from the edges? Is the outer dimension still 3 X 3? Be interested to see the whole process. i.e. I was just thinking of the process I might try??? Sure you already have a good process figured out. 1. Cut the stock on you shear slightly oversize to accommodate for any shrinkage during the forming process and allow for a little machining stock of the outer profile to create a finished product. 2. Drill the center hole in the stock 3. Make the bottom section of the die with a threaded center pin of proper length (either heli coiled or Loctited) in place to guide the plate during forming. Of course you would need a clearance hole on the top section of the die to clear the threaded center pin during forming operations. 4. Remove the top half of the die and install the formed plate into the bottom half of the die and machine a plate out of aluminum to fit over the threaded center pin and hold the formed plate in place with a nut. 5. Then you could machine a perfect profile and chamfer if necessary the outside of the part with minimum machining effort.
Hey John! Yeah, worked far better then I expected! I saw another product with tell tail signs that they did something similar so I tried it. The shrink was only about 1/32" I think. I finished the die holding system for interchangeable dies. I should post by Mon or Tue. Its far easier than you might think. I held off for a long time thinking it was going to be so hard. LOL I have the covers laser cut to shape with the center hole now. I just need to form it. Yeah, I thought I was going to need a center pin to keep the part in place but after the test, I don't think I need it. I will probable have a lip about 1/16" out from the part for quick placement.
I really enjoyed your video. Glad you are on the right track to success. Some times things are easier than they look. Using the KISS method is the way to go.
