In all my years in machining, I have never seen a slitting saw run true. They all have some run out. Watch any and all RU-vid videos of machinists using slitting saws and you’ll see exactly what I’m saying.
I have a few very expensive saw blades (really just thin milling cutters) that are essentially perfect, but I don't own an arbor that is perfect. Even the one I made is off. I'll try again, probably grind it. But as long as it doesn't wobble, eccentricity is no more than an annoyance.
Joe Pieczynski -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Sp1Vaqwqw3c.html Stefan Gotteswinter -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bRQPv4AG2HQ.html (part 1 of 3) It takes effort to be accurate with the arbor.
Maybe it would help to make the center support part of the upper assembly rather than the screw-in piece. That way, everything can be turned in one go and you wouldn't need to worry about two parts. Different blade width coud be accounted for by counterboring the bottom piece so that it slides over the center support.
When Stefan G. made one of these he made the flange really short with the bolt recessed completely inside, so the blade could be used as low as 2.5mm above the deck. That might be handy when sawing a complex shaped item, and would be an easy mod to make to your holder.
Yeah I have watched Stefan's series on slitting saw arbors a couple of times now. In terms of HOW and WHY you do various things in a machining project its a masterclass. His design is more complicated (in the machining) because its on a Morse taper and does not need a collet. *What's really important is his description of how the arbor MUST hold/grip the slitting saw* its after 9:15 in the first part. Not that Stefan's design grips on a slightly larger diameter than others the one in this and other videos which is why his needs the relief he describes. Here's Part 1 of that series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bRQPv4AG2HQ.html For 2 other arbors very similar to the one in this video: Joe Pieczynski -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Sp1Vaqwqw3c.html (done in a pro-shop with pro hardware) Blondihacks -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--COjawgu32k.html (done in a hobbyists shop on a hobbyist lathe)
Never seen one run true yet ! I am beginning to think they cut the teeth and then punch the hole in the centre coz there is no way you could get that much run out if the hole was done first and the saw was mounted on a mandrel to do the teeth . If you ever do find one that runs perfectly true mount it on a plinth and put it on display as you have found the elusive hens tooth 🤣
Possibly, I really dont know how these particular tools are manufactured. it could possibly be down to these being inexpensive imports too, I ha trouble with these last time I used them.
it amazes me the depth of cut you can take with that little lathe in steel. Anymore than about 0.2mm on my bigger, but still small lathe, and it will crash.
Made such an arbor some time ago, in 2 pieces only. As already told, most blades are not centered to the hole. Maybe using a grinder could modify the blade to cut evenly.....
One thing you could've done was while you had the arbor in the collet on the lathe, leave a witness mark on both the arbor and the collet. As it is, machining it in place will ensure that the machined features on the arbor will have the opposite runout of the collet, and if they stay lined up, this will cancel out. If you were to take it out of the collet and reinsert it at 180°, you would have the worse case scenario where the runout on the arbor and collet would then stack instead of cancel out, and anywhere in between would be suboptimal.
That being said, I would suspect the largest source of runout here would likely be the location of the hole in the slitting saw itself. You could check this by measuring from the inside face of the hole to the tip of the tooth with calipers, and compare at various angles along the slitting saw.
Have you checked how good runout the morse taper in the lathe headstock has? It appears that the bore isn't perfectly concentric with the shank. You could get it better by turning the bore and shank in a single operation without removing the work from the chuck
@@artisanmakes If you do have a a second swipe on the concentricity have a check of what Joe Pie did. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Sp1Vaqwqw3c.html Stefan Gotteswiter went a slightly different route and avoided the collet with Morse taper on the arbor. Here's aprt 1 of his ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bRQPv4AG2HQ.html
If he uses a bandsaw or power hacksaw, then he won't get all the knee-jerk responses from those horrified by manual labor (or who think he's a moron who doesn't know about powered saws), and the RU-vid algorithm won't reward him with "engagement" points (and therefore more views) from increased comment traffic. If I were him, I'd start a cut on camera with a hand saw, do most of the cut off camera on a power saw, then take the last few strokes on camera again with the handsaw. That way, he can save time and energy while still getting all the comments. I mean, you have to know your audience, right?
@@tcarney57 you know yt more than me. 😊😊😊😊 I don't consider my comment a knee jerk reaction. I have spent many hours using many a hand saw for both wood and metal work. Whenever possible I now use a power tool. I use hand tools if necessary. Otherwise we would possibly need to use a foot treadle for even a lathe.
Your videos and voice over are pure meditation. Excellent pastime and learning a lot along the way without any effort. Well, well done. Thank you so much.
For real? That sounds suspect to me. Who would design a circular blade with runout? Only one side of it will cut and the teeth on that side will wear out really quick. I think it is more likely they are cheap Ch!nese made, with very low effort spent on quality control...
@@wizrom3046 I can’t answer the theory of chip clearing, but your statement of them being cheap Chinese made is off. My cutters are all USA made of big names like Morse, Brown & Sharpe, Niagara etc. They all have some degree of runout.
At 5:49, did you try feeding from the headstock and outwards instead? I find that sometimes gives a really good finish when you have to angle those kind of inserts like that.
Does the runout not stem from the thread? Perhaps make a system that does not use a thread to lock the saw in place but instead clamps it down by other means would solve the issue?
