Slitting saw talk and making a set of sawing arbors. pHorn: www.phorn.de/ Look for 105/110 series boring tools, thats what I use. Me on Instagram: / stefan_gtwr
Hi Stefan I just got lucky and my brother-in-law gave me a big box of inserts slitting saws Mill bits insert for boring bars a few nice carbide boring bars and a whole bunch of small carbide boring bars I mean a literally enough to last me my entire life. They are all brand new. He works in an aerospace company that if an engineer for some reason decides that it's not the right tool that has to leave the building it cannot be held so they throw them out or they let people take them home. Military contracts are funny that way they have a lot of regulations regarding what can even be around. I also got about 50 pieces of 304 stainless round stock about 4 ft each! my brother-in-law is an amazing person he's really been taking care of me LOL Anyway so I need to make some Arbor so I'm glad I found your video here. I've made them before but they're never exactly as nice as I would like them so I want to see what you do here and I'm about to watch it now. I had an idea however for a good video I don't know if you would like to do this type of thing but it would be interesting to me any way to learn about the different threads and clamping forces that are appropriate for different applications because I am always wondering what thread to use for a specific task. Anyway it's just an idea I would love to see you do it if you have the time or the desire Thank you very much Great video is always and now I will continue watching it
I like your chuck setting technique. Works well for chucks attached with bolts. That is how I initially set up my ER32 collet chuck on a 7" swing mini lathe devoted to collet work only.
Nice video, nice tools, and nice explanation of everything. Thank you for sharing this series with us. I think it is funny(odd) that in your videos, you explain the "why and how" of making tools, and of the tools you're using, better than many guys whose 1st language is English! That is just great, and makes me look forward to your videos allot. Danke sehr Stefan...Aloha, Chuck
Great video. That was very nice work and a very nice product. Slitting saws are very useful when used carefully. My first try with one I crashed it. The next time around I was more careful and things worked better. Thanks for the video.
I saw two pins for the clamping screw - but my adgustable hinese customizable wrench bent when trying to open the F50mm mill after work! In later I opened from gas wrench
"Knock Chuck" funny new kind or brand, but functional, not giving up on my 6 jaws with the adjustment though... lol Nice arbors, you got a great collection of slitting saws, and, hand tools saws make great inexpensive saws... ;)
Hi Stefqn, Nice explanation of arbor construction, and a plus was you didn't need any band-aids after handling the saws and cutters. My small saws want to break if I breathe on them the wrong way.
Just a really quick 'drive by', since i remembererd my password, Keep on the good work Herr Stefan, alles gut, Jawhol! :) And for all that asks, 'why didn't you do this, do that'? There are many ways to solve a problem and they may all be right. Cheerio!
I wonder what the bore is on that Soviet wheel cutter? If it were done in inches I would think the tool was made to run on American tools we gave them during WWII. However that's soooo cool. I've been looking for Soviet machine tolls to show up on YT for years.
As always it is a pleasure to watch your videos. But I have a point that bothers me. People are always saying that digital calipers are merely approximate. I have a pair of calipers that agrees with my (analog) micrometer to .01mm on average. When it does not, I hold the calipers, closed, up to the light. If I can see light, there is some crud on the calipers. Give it a wipe and I am back to .01mm. And a micrometer is not idiot-proof either, because you can over/under tighten it. I must attribute this to coincidence. I just happened to win the caliper roulette. However it would be interesting to make a wider comparison. with a bigger sample than I can afford! Many people do not wipe the crud off their calipers before measuring., and hence "the calipers are off". Further not all calipers will not hold their zero exactly. Including mine. Pass auf!
Thanks for another interesting video, I find your videos very interesting and well done. I went looking for secondhand phorn tooling on eBay, but I didn't get very far. I live in France so shipping isn't a problem for me.
Many many thanks Stefan for this great series of two videos. I need to make a couple of saw arbor with Schaublin W12 shank and sure I'll get inspiration from you. Just one thing I have not captured: What material (tool steel) have you been using? And no need for heat treatment?
Back then I just cnc milled the profile :D Without cnc, I would drill/bore/ream the two endradii and mill the tangents to it on the rotary table with a small, long endmill.
They are made by pHorn, its the 105 series: eshop.phorn.de/ishop/Drehen/Einstechdrehen-(innen)/Supermini%C2%AE-105/product/node/10065_10007_10005.html;jsessionid=B1B4C871F82372937543E66F6F506801
How do you make holders for those? Also, regarding the arbor material, was that an error with the 42 CR MO S6? All I can find is 42 CR MO 4 (1.7225) (although I do lack a decent understanding of steel and those material numbers and short names.)
+Stefan Gotteswinter Many thanks Stefan, I'd always wondered how the Rohm chucks stacked up against the Albrecht. I did buy 3 integral shank keyless chucks from Glacern Machine Tool in California. 2 with R8 shanks and one MT 3 for my lathe. I'm almost positive the Albrecht was part of the design. There pretty smooth with very low runout, but just not quite as good as a real Albrecht. Only about $100 though. And I view drills the same as yourself. There only a roughing tool.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Thanks for the prompt reply, but I was thinking more like a 6 to 10 mm radius... it should strengthen the tool a lot more than a tiny radius at that inter section.
Wer kennts nicht, wenn das Futter fast auf null rund läuft. 😂 Vorführeffekt. Nutzt du Schrauben als Material? Wenn ichs richtig verstanden habe hoch zugfeste Schrauben? Mfg
It was an absolute pleasure watching your comprehensive films. I know understand why I have driven BMW and Audi for the last 20 years. German engineering - excellent.
@@StefanGotteswinter yes it's always the anticipation of whether the things will start and if any of the electrical systems will fail on any particular important journey lol
Sorry Mann… dein Englisch ist ganz schön gebrochen. Sprich doch einfach deutsch. Sollen sich die Amys doch das übersetzen oder bist du so geil auf likes?
Die Englischen Muttersprachler waren/sind voll ok damit - Bekomme keinerlei Beschwerden, scheint also zu passen. Die meisten Beschweren kommen eigentlich von Deutschsprachiger Seite, die angekäst sind, weil die Videos nicht auf Deutsch sind. Das ist tatsächlich schon 8 Jahre her - Auch ein Faktor. Hätte ich damals einfach aufgehört Videos auf Englisch zu machen, hätte sich an meiner Sprachfähigkeit nichts verbessert. Ansonsten gibts natürlich immer noch meinen deutschsprachigen Zweitkanal: ru-vid.com/show-UCLhe-NCnMIOf2p7k5EKyLFg
Great! I made something similar but 3 mm shank and 8 mm total diameter to fit in the MF70. But I used a small hex screw for the bolt. Now you gave me the idea to make a shoulder bolt like yours.
Thanks for this serie of videos. I saw them 1 or 2 years ago and now I made an arbor. It turned out very well. Time 08:30... That's what I picked up for my simple Ebay blades having a 6+ mm hole. Joe Pie recently showed arbor making and that triggered me to use the knowledge from Your serie of videos. Time 08:39. "Fine thread"... I used M6 1 mm. M6 0.5 mm is available but is the strength of that thread enough? Okey, depends on how well it's made. Time 09:25 - 09:50. Excellent foto, clearly showing how You did it. Haha... Time 19:30. Lathe jumping off the table..... Lovely sense of humor.
Thanks. I am really enjoying your videos and this one has me excited about making a quality, low run out SS arbor. Did you check the TIR on your arbors, on your mill? What about heat treating? Nice work Stefan.
I keep meaning to make up some arbors which I can adjust to get rid of the runout which almost ALL slitting saws seem to feature. It makes them cut slowly, jam, and wear unevenly. And I hate the rhythmical noise reminding me that nine tenths of each revolution is being wasted.