Making a Solid Wood Countertop

Подписаться 55 тыс.

Просмотров 9 тыс.

50% 1

Visit www.epicwoodworking.com for Online Courses with Tom McLaughlin, Plans, in-Shop Classes, Neighborwood Membership discounts, and more!
⚙️ MAILING LIST: www.epicwoodworking.com/maili...
⚙️ SHOW NOTES - EPISODE #169: We needed a Certificate of Occupancy to move into our house. To avoid any delays, a slab of birch plywood edged in cherry, with a sink hole cut out and a few coats of polyurethane became a temporary kitchen countertop…24 years ago! Yes, it’s embarrassing to admit, but that cobbled together countertop was just nice enough to serve our growing family all these years. And now it’s finally time, I’m making a new solid wood countertop! In this episode I show you how it’s going, the materials, techniques and plans to make a beautiful solid flame birch countertop. Maybe it's time to replace yours too! (Closed Captioned)
⚙️ EPISODE LINKS
• General Tom McLaughlin resource links: www.epicwoodworking.com/resou...
• Goosebay Lumber and Sawmill: goosebaylumber.net/
• Festool Joining machine DOMINO DF 500 Q-Set: www.festool.com/products/domi...
⚙️ SUBSCRIBE here and CLICK THE BELL to be notified of future live events and video uploads.
⚙️ THE NEIGHBORWOOD woodworking community: www.epicwoodworking.com/neigh...
⚙️ SOCIALS
• Instagram: @tommclaughlin10
• Facebook: @EpicWoodworking
• Twitter: @EpicWoodworking
• RU-vid: @EpicWoodworking
⚙️ TOM's PORTFOLIO: www.epicwoodworking.com/portf...
~~~~~~~
LIVE EVENTS are filmed in the shop of Tom McLaughlin, host of TV's Classic Woodworking and Shop Night Live. Tom loves to pass on the craft of woodworking by creating projects to present in live video form backed by his over 30-years of experience making fine custom furniture.
~~~~~~~
FTC Disclosure: In general, the links we provide through Amazon are affiliate links, which means we will receive a small commission if you purchase something using that link. Affiliate arrangements are not a focus for us, but we do want you to be aware of this one.

Хобби

Опубликовано:

30 ноя 2022

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 18

@sawdustwoodchips Год назад

I made an oak counter top and did herringbone in the corner. never had an issue and that was 20+ years ago I did Tongue and groove the edges, so layer it just like a floor.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Sounds nice! I hadn’t thought of using a herringbone corner with my wider stock. Yours lasting 20+ years is plenty proof of concept. Thanks for watching! 👍😎

@victoryak86 Год назад

Another super instructive SNL Tom. Appreciative of your willingness to share your expertise and also openness to various ideas, not always that common! Can’t wait to see the finished countertop. Merry Christmas to you and the Camera Lady as well.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Thank you, we can’t wait to see it finished too! Hope you had a Merry Christmas, and will have a Happy New Year! 😎🎉🎊

@jwar2163 Год назад

Some one else stated already about Totalboat. I will add Totalboat Halcyon in clear or satin. As for your joint since going with Festool Domin try using the Domino connector system instead of the dog bone aka drop ties. Not sure if you are using the DF500 or the DF700 XL version but the connector system will work to tie the countertops together and allow seasonal expansion. Or just do a herringbone with dominos. Also be sure to seal the underside of counter top near the sink area many people seal the top around the sink but forget about the underside, silicone is also subjected to changes in hot cold and can move. I have in my past done many custom formica and wood veneered countertops over hardwood to change the look and plywood as new installation.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Thank you so much for your experience based advice! I did use an epoxy as the first sealer coat, allowing it to soak in a bit…both sides with an emphasis near the sink hole. I’ll be following with two or three coats of Arm r Seal, a poly blend, due to its ease of application, protection and simplicity to sand and topcoat in the future. I did go with the dog bones, and dry fit dominoes along the joint to allow movement. I saw those Domino connectors when they first came out but didn’t pickup any yet. I only have the DF500 and I saw that system as being a good potential alternative for joining bed rails. And I will be taking your advice with the silicone caulking…it will go on the stainless rim before attaching it as an undermount. Hopefully get it installed a week from Saturday and get the video out soon after. Thanks again! 👍

@sailingcircles Год назад

This is probably a little late but Total Boat makes a Penetrating Epoxy. They have great customer service and are very willing to help.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Thank you so much! I did take your advice, as well as another person who also suggested using epoxy. But I used what I had on hand, not buying new from Total boat…but good to know as a resource in the future. I used the epoxy as a sealer coat, and now need to add the top coats which will be arm r seal, a poly blend for ease of application, and repair ability down the road. Thanks again! 👍😎

@edwinvillaceran245 Год назад

Nice shop

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Thank you, I’m definitely spoiled! 👍😎

@danoneil4672 Год назад

Look at some videos from Blacktail Studio on RU-vid, he uses epoxy to seal edges when he builds river tables and/or fills voids in tops. I am sure you can seal the exposed end grain with epoxy.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Thanks Dan, I appreciate that. The epoxy was successful as my sealer coat and I am very pleased with how it turned out! 👍😎

@ronsteis2065 Год назад

To use your long boards optimally, why not miter the outer board as you’ve shown but then run boards for the short arm of the L all the way straight back to the long backsplash. That way the long arm of the L would need only 11’ minus (if I remembered the width of the top correctly) 24” allowing you to have straight runs of boards the don’t require a butt joint next to the sink.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

That’s a great observation and suggestion Ron! I may end up doing just that. As I’m working with the material I’m finding the longer board I had planned for the back is quite wavy and has a bad end so your idea might also work well for that reason. Thanks for the idea, and for watching! 👍😎

@1deerndingo Год назад

That was great. I look forward to viewing the build. I do wonder as a learning process how a full mitre with a bread board joint directly joining the two panels would perform. Fixed in the middle, after watching your show this morning, with a dog bone and supported on either side just like a bread board joint. My thoughts are 1. would the expansion and contraction pull the outer edges of the joint apart by pulling too hard on the pins, 2. could the outer pins be stopped 1/4" before breaching the top surface, 3. by gluing the middle 7" and locking with the dog bone that'd leave about 13" to 14" of "floating" joint on each side. Is that enough to cause issues? 4. would one use two or three "floating" pins on either side. It's all just theoretical learning curve stuff. And you might have some experienced thoughts on the matter.

@EpicWoodworking Год назад

Thanks Danny, I’m not sure I completely follow your question given the visual nature of it. But your question seems to be asking if it’s possible to control the movement of the wood over a the complete long miter if there was a board inserted perpendicular to the joint to restrict it like a breadboard. I don’t think these approaches would be effective in the long run because the wood will still move and open up the joint along the miter at the ends as described in the video. Every time I have thought I could restrict the movement in the past using a similar approach, the movement wins…like trying to hold back the tide. I only have one shot at this one, and given the lengths of materials I have and not wanting to splice for lengths, I opted to use a controlled partial miter. The front board is mitered and glued with floating tenons while the back 90 degree joint is dry aligned with dominoes for movement across the joint and held together with the dog bones. The expansion and contraction which will occur will happen out the back underneath the backsplash. At least that’s the plan, we’ll see how successful it was in ten years or so! 😎 Thanks for watching 👍