Hey, my name is Tom McLaughlin. I'm a 30+ year fine custom furniture maker, contributor to Fine Woodworking Magazine and a long-standing member of the NH Furniture Masters.
My love for teaching the craft has me focusing on passing it on through Online Courses, a weekly livestream event, In-Shop Classes, and a membership community we affectionately call The Neighborwood. Our “Neighbors” have access to ALL our Online Courses, a private Forum, discount on Plans, insider news, monthly Coffee with Tom live events, Shop Night Live topical index, and more! Learn more here: www.epicwoodoworking.com/tnw
My goal is to offer you a virtual apprenticeship, as close to the experience I had with my mentor, P.A. "Pug" Moore of Rocky Mt., NC. Read more here: www.epicwoodworking.com.
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Thanks for watching. It's great to be a part of your woodworking journey in some way! Tom epicwoodworking.com
How is this jewel of a sharpening video only have 600 likes? It deserve a lot more, it is both to the informative and entertaining, but I had to specifically look for scraper tuning to get at it. I'm definitely checking your channel now.
Thank you for sharing this video! I was hunting for something to give me the confidence to take on a project, and I stopped right here! It’s refreshing and educational to see a true master ply his craft vs. an imitation (a DIY influencer) try to pass for the real thing. Plus, his stories were soo much fun to listen to!! So much better than the prattling on and on in other videos! I’m taking on re-upholstering our dining room chairs, and I’ve just been watching Joe on repeat, working and telling his stories. If I manage to accomplish even a fraction of the quality he’s putting out, this will be an unparalleled success! And all thanks to you for sharing him with us!
I practice hand cutting joints with spare 2x material a lot, so this is really fun and easy to relate. The emphasis on squareness to the joint fitting direction is spot on!
Using the upper method diagramed at 35:44, run the tenon deep enough to catch about 50% of the long grain in the vertical member. That way, the short grain section is reinforced internally by the cross grain tenon, and the shear load is transferred deeper into the vertical long grain.
Most any plane will work but a low angle plane (especially a heavier size) is designed to make cleaner cuts on end grain, which is the most common kind of grain trimmed with this jig. Hope that helps! 👍
Oh, wait to you see the humiliating videos I am about to reveal of my clutter! You will see my actual mess, we may have more in common than you think! 👍😎
Very nice. Clear explanation of why you need the first sets of stop blocks offset by 1/16" from the pattern line. I do wish you would use a starter pin on the router table, thought. It makes the initial engagement with the bit much safer.
Thank you! I actually am a big fan of starter pins and will always use them when there is a clear need. This jig is made to have part of the lower guide platform engage the cutter bearing safely and smoothly so that you are in full contact with the base pattern before the cutter engages the leg. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for your kind words and for watching! 👍😎
Yes, I was using one that still had the wax in it, but it is not enough by itself to provide the reduction in friction shown here. Thanks for watching! 👍
Piano technician here. We do fine sanding on squeaky grand pianos. A dirty little secret is using ivory bar soap in emergencies. Really enjoyed your video. Thanks!
Handy timing for the shellac/wax on the 90° as I just picked up a handmade drawer that I'm sure they dumped because it was difficult to pull the drawer! Much thanks
You folks are awesome! I could not attend the live stream last night, and I LOVE the replay. That shellac/wax tip has made my week. What a brilliant solution! Thank you!
Oh that’s great Lupe, I figured you were already on top of that one given your precise smooth fitting “magic” boxes 😎. Kris is to thank for the great edited replay, among so many other things. We think you’re awesome too!! 👍
Thanks Paul, yes I agree and actually have one in my finishing room just for that. I didn’t mention it because I was showing the thinner flake form which dissolve easily without grinding. I love using the grinder with the shellac that is larger grained and dissolves slowly if not pulverized. Thanks for reminding me of that, and for watching! 👍😎
Really interesting! But I've got a question, here in Europe, 99% of the time, we use drawer sliders and mechanisms... There are many options, cheap, expensive, heavy duty etc. why you guys, in US still making them without sliders? What's the advantages? (My question is not ironical or something, I'm just curious) Cheers from Greece!
Most cabinetry in the US such as kitchens, industrial cabinets, and office furniture do use drawer slides. But traditional built furniture often foregoes drawer slides. Sometimes for the classic aesthetic and sometimes for the practical purpose of maximizing the drawer size since mechanical slides have to reduce the interior dimension either on the sides or the bottom.
Another great video Tom. Its really awesome being able to learn all these tips that are hard to find these days. Could you do an episode on how you got your name out and advertised when you did client work? Ive started a custom furniture business this year and I think it would be very interesting.
I made a Mountain Dulcimer out of Walnut many years ago. I still remember the smell -- or "fragrance" -- quite nice, very earthy with a deep sweetness. What a wood! Gives great nuts, smells great and looks FANTASTIC! And yes Tung Oil and.or Waterlox are THE BEST. Used them mant times. My best use so far it so far was ona a solid Teak sitting bench for the shower. I put about 6 coats of Tung Oil on it over 6 days, then Waterlox due to its wet location (Tung Oil is water-resistant but not water-proof), Then waterlox. Looks brand new after years in the shower! Note though: In return for its beauty, Tung Oil is probably the HARdest finish to apply -- takes lots of patience, with buffing between coats with 0000 steel wool and tack cloths!
Sorry, I don’t understand the term “God bothering.” 🤔 On its face, I don’t believe I’m capable of bothering God. It’s just a quote meant to appreciate the expressive potential of handwork where possible. 👍
For logevity and/or future repairabilty, I always screw my runners and kickers. Nothing worse than repairing a worn-out runner that was glued into place.
Yes, I agree. I do the same on chests of drawers where I have seen many antique runner “dished out” from the amount of use and weight of the drawers. With a small side table like this, and an oak runner, I don’t have the same concern for wear. Thanks 👍
What was he "coloring" with the marker?? 🤷🏼♀️ Did he turn under the final cover cloth on the bottom? I couldn't see...?🤔 P. S. Never mind, I went back and looked and I could tell he did turn it under. 👍🏼🤭
The apron tenons are not centered on the leg as you the apron 3/32 in. from the outside of the leg. You marked only the outside edge of the mortise on the apron where the tenon cheek will lie. Yet you cut the tenon on your tenoning jig as if the tenons were to be centered on the apron. Did you account for this difference with the tenoning jig's board/jig with tape you used to cut the tenons? Later you stated that the tenons will be slightly "offset." Of course, they are as there is a 3/32 in. measurement from the outside of the leg. You added that this would be OK. How is that possible?
Hi Jose, Sorry for any confusion caused. I tried to show marking the location of the tenons on the end of table rail, in relation to the mortises on the leg, so that it would result in a 3/32” offset of the face of the rail to the leg. I had no concern about centering the tenon on the rail, although the tenon ended up being close to the center of the rail. And I had the tenon jig spacer in place while setting the saw to cut the outside face of the tenon. The tape on the spacer is just there to calibrate the spacer thickness in order to cut a tenon that will accurately fit the mortise. So the spacer will work with any rail thickness. I hope that helps to understand it better. I’m a visual learner, so I’ve also attached another video where I show the tenoning jig and spacer in action. By reviewing this as well, it might help clear up any misunderstanding. Thanks for watching! Making a Tenon Jig For the Table Saw with Tom McLaughlin ru-vid.comSUkSoYexT3U?feature=share
I just like 4 possible edges because when I'm done sharpening, I know there is a good chance I will have nailed it on one of the 4. Like a multiple choice test.
My favourite wood working channel. Not only are the hosts the best on RU-vid, they focus on period furniture which is my favourite genre. I enjoyed the introduction on this video. It reminds me of a time in my youth when I opened a retail store. 35 years ago. I just followed my gut (it wasn't a furniture store). But the friends and the adventures had was a really special part of my life and you reminded me of that when you started describing why you first started RU-vid production. Awesome videos. Thank you.
