Making an MFT Style Assembly Table Using Extruded Aluminum // Parf Guide System 

The Mac was on point. All of the aluminum parts from the first part of the video were a touch under $200. There’s sort of a price floor when you consider any table needs X amount of brackets. So scaling this up to a bigger table won’t be a linear increase in price, but it’ll definitely be a little expensive. But, when you factor in the built in t-track, it’s not so bad, at least that’s what I’m telling myself to justify it 🙂

@@parillaworks That's really not unreasonable. You're trading a little bit of money for a lot of time savings. Interesting on the non-linear increase in price, I hadn't thought of that. I imagine shipping is what quickly becomes an issue for longer parts, but at that point you can likely source the rails from a local supplier (Grainger e.g.) and get all the smaller connectors online. Looks like a 4' length of 80/20 15 Light is $32.75. Oh, can you update the description with links to the cool hole jigs you used?

I just updated the description but here's a link to where I got mine: bit.ly/2PqQ0jo Ya the great thing is that the extrusions are all pretty much universal as long as you are within the right series, and even then, there are connectors that let you join different series together.

Ya that sounds pretty big! My next one might use 1.5” x 3” for the top rails for better clamping.

I’m glad to hear that David! I was sort of in the same position as you. I didn’t see much out there talking about it and wanted to give it a shot. It’s definitely a cool material and there’s a ton more that can be done with it. I’m hoping to get the bigger table made before the end of the year!

And you always gotta rest with your bare hand first!

Thanks! I recently made another one to hold my CNC. I’m on the fence about a large one like I mentioned in the video. Of late, I’ve been interested in incorporating some sort of hydraulic scissor lift in my next assembly table. We’ll see how that goes.

Thanks Jered! Ya I went through a ton of iterations with just this basic built. I mostly used sketchup and pencil/paper to work it out. Then it was onto which vendor had the best price and parts for my needs.

Thanks Mike!

Thanks for the comment Jeffrey. A torsion box top is a great option. I’ve seen a video or two where flip down casters are added to the extrusions, it’s definitely do-able. The parf system seems to go in and out of stock frequently. I ordered from Axminster and the shipping from the UK was super fast and cheap, surprisingly.

Thanks for the comment Daniel. Totally agree. This little table is like the bare minimum of what this extrusion is capable of. Making a router table with slide in panels and hinged doors is an example of something very approachable for people looking to use this type of system.

Hey Sebastian. Thanks for the comment. I haven’t made the larger aluminum workbench yet but hope to when I get a break in my schedule. I actually just put together a similar table for my CNC though. Towards the back of my shop is a 7” step up into our house but for some reason it extends the full width of the shop. I designed the table so that the base was shallower than the top so that the top can butt up against the wall before the wheels hit the step. The extrusions were a great solution in this case. The table is 46” x 42” and about 32” tall; cost about $340 from Tnutz. Anyway, I recently came across the idea to use a small scissor lift as the bas of the bench so that I can have my work at varying levels. When I find time, I’ll need to figure out the best way to attach an aluminum frame top to the lift. -John

Thanks Michael. I’m not sure if a similar corner bracket exists for this extrusion. If it does, it would be extremely convenient! I’ll have to look into it.

@@parillaworks Try using the same corner brackets you have now, but with the perimeter extrusions meeting only at their innermost edges, as I suggest. I think you will find that the resultant frame is just as sturdy insofar as its function as table top is concerned, especially after the top itself is attached to the frame. You will then need to relocate the legs inward on one or the other axis in order for a leg to support the top from directly beneath one or the other of the top extrusions. As this shift will allow use of only one of the two 90 deg. brackets you now have bracing each leg, one way to prevent racking in the axis previously braced by the missing bracket would be to add one or two horizontal cross piece(s) to create a pair of end frames in place of the four independently braced legs you have now. This would convert your existing flour-legged table construction into a more typical workbench construction comprising two end frames joined by horizontal stretchers. While this will add the cost of two or four more short pieces of extrusion to convert the legs into rigid frames, I'm pretty sure you will find that cost more than justified by the increase utility and convenience of a top whose perimeter T-slots are accessible from both ends. When I design custom tools and fixtures, I often find it instructive to first try to discern why major manufacturers have arrived at design decisions that seem virtually universal. Festool MFT, Mafell Erika push-pull saw, and many other machine designs incorporating perimeter t-slot extrusions all stop them short of the corner as I am suggesting. The ability to re-purpose and re-configure t-slot components is a large part of the advantage in investing in them as you have done. Good luck!

Lol get to work! I'm glad we have similar naming conventions for our builds haha.

Seems like a great use for it. Will you be using linear bearings?

@@parillaworks still in the early planning stages! I plan to do a video on it when it's done though!

@@parillaworks You're video inspired me to get going with the build! Yes I am going use the bearing glides that go with them and then doing a mixture of laser cutting acrylic and 3D printing for the rest!

Thanks for watching! I think I’ve added stuff to my ‘cart’ online for a larger table like 5 times but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I’m waiting to move some things around in the shop and get more organized. For the larger table, I think I’m gonna use 1530 series for the top perimeter. More rigid and also a larger clamp surface if needed.

@@parillaworks if you don’t mind sharing, roughly what’s your cart total? I’m starting to price out my own table and am curious how bad I’m doing.

@@rundeks I’m planning to do something that’s 60”x30”, maybe a little bit smaller. The cost is coming in around $450-550. But I really need to sit down and list out exactly what I need. I keep doing it in my head which is hard to keep track of.

I didn’t do any true tests for the flatness but there didn’t seem to be any rocking when I put the mdf on top.

I did not. I priced it out and was close to $6-700. Figured it wasn’t worth it at the time. I ended up going with a Kreg workbench and MDF top.

@@parillaworksthank you for responding. I just built one the same size as the Festool MFT3 and it cost me 350 in Aluminum Extrusions plus the cost of the top. A large one would have been wicked expensive. 👊🏻

We’re about that box life.

Hi. I don't know if TNutz helps with there design side of things but it could be worth asking. I know 80/20 definitely does but it's going to be quite expensive. I was working on a 60" x 30" x 35" or so and I think that was going to come close to $500-600. I was going to use wider extrusions for the main stretchers for increased clamping ability. The real cost comes with all of the connectors; things add up quick. As for the folding legs, I know that hinges are available but I don't know the best way to make it work for folding legs.

I would guess they’re readily available somewhere. I know 8020 has some online chat support. They may be able to provide some info on specific builds and things like that.

I was very close to but never did. The costs on the aluminum would’ve been near $600 or so for what I wanted. Decided to go with a Kreg table and put a 7’ x 3’ MDF top on it with the same grid of holes.

I ended up building a larger table but it was made using a Kreg assembly kit. Not nearly as functional but the aluminum one from this video was going to be way too expensive.

I gave it a look but I was pretty set on not using a router. Once I realized my jig wouldn’t work out, I just went for the parf system which seems to be the most well regarded.

I have both and the Parf system is significantly more accurate.

Hey. Search New Brit workshop on RU-vid. That's the guy that came up with this system. His name is Peter Parfitt hence the name of the system ( Parf guide system ). He even gives you plan on how to make your own mft

Hi. It was a touch under $200. 80/20.net would’ve been closer to $300; the pro of going with 80/20 is a much larger selection of parts. Tnutz is pretty basic but I think it’s a great option for someone like me who was just trying it out.

parillaworks: Cheers.

Just seen that my question is already been answered.

Glad to hear. Let me know if you have any other questions about the costs or anything in general.

I considered that for a brief moment but never explored the viability. My first thought is to use an L shaped leg made of plywood and place it on the inside of the top assembly. Then attach with a few t-nuts. In reality, the 1030 pieces and brackets would be the bulk of your costs anyway. A few extra legs at 25-30” won’t be too much more.

That’s a great idea. I got a little bit of blowout but nothing crazy. I think I’ll do that on the next version though. Thanks!

@@parillaworks Great build. One other thing to consider is moving the shelf up so you can use clamps to mount boards vertically with more support.

Another good tip. One of my initial sketches had a shelf like that but i decided to cut costs and go basic on this first one. The other option I’m considering is 1.5”x3” rails for the top which could provide that extra support.