Making custom charcuterie boards- with the XTool D1 

Thanks. Just a regular guy and a shop here….

Thanks...

Thanks..

You are welcome!

Thanks…

2 years ago, I didn’t have it…

Thanks

I have a planer and spindle sander. I get the look I want, I am out of space

@TheClackShack Me too! Can't getmy wife convinced of a Big metal building. Lol.

Glad you like it. Thanks..

Cool, take some of your off cuts and dry them. Just engrave some live edge and post. Folks love that stuff.

Pretty much all lasers on the market can do this.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Not sure I would enjoy fighting the router either. These hardwoods are around 3/4 inch thick. One day, I may have a CNC router. This approach isn’t bad for now

That's exactly what I do with my charcuterie boards, just_Fritzy. I used my D1 to cut out a template using some of that 1/4" hardboard (available from big box stores). Then, after I cut the wood to rough size, I use double-sided tape to attach the template to the router, grab a flush trim bit, and shape the wood to the exact, precise size I desired. Using the template really makes sanding those curves a TON easier! One tip: If you find that your flush trim bit sticks out a little beyond your template, get some bench cookies and slide them underneath the template. My bench cookies have textured material on each side, so the wood doesn't slide around. I've found that customers really appreciate when I take a 1/8" or 1/4" roundover bit and "ease" the sharp edges of the finger holes, too. It takes longer to explain what I'm doing than to actually do it. Oh, and I also use a spindle sander, if necessary on the inside curves. Thanks for sharing your tips. I think we all get better when we share our secrets and successes with one another. It does NO GOOD to keep all the information a secret! ~~Dr. Larry S. Anderson • Tupelo, MS (birthplace of Elvis)

That's exactly what I thought (Only because I have seen other people on RU-vid do it). Seems like a super cool and easy way to utilize a laser cutter, but not if you do not own a router table. I have also seen people cut through 3/4" thick material in 2 passes with the 20w, but then you would really need a spindle sander for all the char.

@@TheClackShack What you would do is take your bandsaw and/or scroll saw and cut just outside your line and then use the router with a pilot bit. Given the volume that you seem to be doing a router table would be worth the investment. and make template routing safe. Great video btw.

@@edhiestand1197 I have a router table but I am not skilled enough to use a flat bit to smooth the edges. I just need a spindle sander.

Glad it helps. That’s how it started for me as well. My hobby is still growing.

Yes, I have tested 4 machines running at the same time. I run 2 at a time most days.

Yep

Only that I sweat a lot. It doesn’t get hot enough to damage components. Think about it, your car stereo can survive 8 hours in your car while in a parking lot. Basically the same components. Of course when operating, it needs to be cooled but if I can handle the heat, it should be ok.

@@TheClackShack Great points. Thank you

Food safe basically means it isn’t poisonous by using chemicals. To truly be food safe, it has to be clean and free of chemicals

It would need waxing if it was for actual cutting board.

Currently no, I just sell my finished products locally. Maybe in the future.

Most folks want it to look engraved, the vast majority of the ones that I make are decorative only. The ones that do want them to use are told to keep them clean and treat with butcher block oils.

some type of clear coat. I use polycrylic or polyurethane

I run up to 5 machines at a time with my PC. Just relaunch from the dektop and select the machine. Removing the cord is an option, I didn't see where it hurt the engrave. I usually don't have them on there. Multitasking with a camera adds a challenge. Sometimes I also forget to focus.

My understanding is they will use them in the setup for the client and then donate them as a gift. I also have another company that has their logo on several of their boards they setup just to make it look fancy..

I use a honeycomb. If you are cutting, a honeycomb is very helpful. engraving, it doesnt matter

This one has a variable speed control on the pump.

Price ranges from $25 up depending on species of wood and complexity of engrave. Custom designs also cost more due to my design time. Base price for common woods is 25. Every market is different, your price may be higher or lower depending on the supply and demand. Being able to make custom unique pieces is where I operate. I can’t compete with the $10 hobby lobby pieces and don’t try.

I have done a lot of cedar. I mill it thin for lasers

I use cermark and have never used cold galvanizing spray. I love the results I get with the marking spray. Sorry

Maybe I should come up with a name for the community...

It all depends on how deep you want it to engrave. Lots of variables

They are best milled as soon as the hit the ground

Not sure I understand what you meant. If the wood is trying to burn, speed up or add air assist.

I now use an Atzer V35. This video was last year

No, it is different. Power is similar but look is way different

@@TheClackShack Different look? Lighter?

@@bradbrown2168 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-igBWlHpm3tw.html

I use lightburn, just click frame

Thank you for the quick response.@@TheClackShack

Woodmizer Lx25

Considered, yes. Can’t figure out where it would fit….crowded

@@TheClackShack I bought a Onefinity Woodworker X50 which needs a table of about 55" square to be comfortable. I then bought a diode laser and didn't know where to put it. Decided to put it on the CNC router table and then built an enclosure to go over the 2. So I can use only one tool at a time, but that's OK. Enclosure provides some sound protection for the CNC and smoke and eye protection for the laser. I've seen others put the CNC on floor casters so they could roll it under a work table. Other people hang them on the wall so they are used vertically. Maybe in your case the Shaper Origin would work? They are basically the size of a 3 HP router.

Yea, I have turned down a few due to my current work load.

@@TheClackShack , I went ahead and added the d1 pro to the mix. I started with the 10w d1 so now have two lasers running to keep up. But I am making my boards out of multiple species. I have different styles/sizes and price points but the large charcuterie is by far the most popular.

Nowhere to put one, I have considered it but until I get more room, I can’t.

I haven’t, I have used mineral oil and a bees wax based stuff.

Yes, I run up to 4 machines simultaneously.

Cool, thanks I thought I was going to have to buy another laptop.

430x400 on the D1

@@TheClackShack what is the name of the laser please

@@waterlilly62lori It should be in the title, XTool D1

@@TheClackShack I'm sorry. It was

No, I have but only secondary views.

@@TheClackShack well if you dont mind what camera do you use to film with sir?

You can make a line down to about 0.1mm and the depth is dependant on the hardness of the material and the power, speed and pass settings. I regularly engrave 1/8 inch deep on oak. With a natural material, parts of the burn will be deeper than others based on grain.

I would love to but I am out of space....and money..

Didn’t want to go that route…

She has been at it for years....almost 30 years...lol

No problem..

So you take a log and mill your own wood too? Anyone can buy lumber at a store. I prefer using lumber I make from my sawmill. That’s the cool thing about preference, we can all have them. I make stuff many different ways.