My secret to making a great jig 

Love Love Love this. When I saw you use jigs, I added that to my list of things I need. But the process I created in my head to make them was way more complicated than this! LOL Yes, I AM an overthinker! So helpful, and not something I would have thought to incorporate into my process.

Another way to know front from back is to take a pencil and write 'front' on the front. Works every time. Or, a bit off the wall, engrave 'Front' on it while you're cutting the holes.

Great video, as always. At 21:53 you were having trouble with the Y direction of your grid array not lining up. If you notice, in your array settings pane, you have “Distance from center to center” unchecked for your Y direction. This means that the 4.580 is actually the measurement between objects, which isn’t what you want. When you do your initial grid array for the keychain cutouts, make sure the “Distance from center to center” is checked and then take note of the settings once your cutout grid is made. Then, when you go to add images to the inside of the tags, the same distance-to-center settings will apply, making the process much more predictable. I’m not sure why people are having so much trouble with your jig setup. It works great for me. One final thing I might add. When I get done making a new jig for a specific new item, I go back and select all of the cutouts and right-click on them and select “Lock selected shapes.” This prevents me from accidentally moving/deleting/resizing them in the future. Cheers.

Thank you for the insight. Very well explained.

This is the video I was looking for, thanks.

I love the way you explain things to folks, you make it a matter of fact and in terms most will understand Bravo!

Thank you!

Thank you for the very thorough explanation and instructions. I bought the jig file last night from Etsy. Looking forward to using when machine comes in.

Thank you very much. Very helpful.

A suggestion.... When you make your holes for a metal blank, leave the wood for 4 or 6 or so interior "stubs", like short timing marks, protruding into the circle, to let the item rest on by engraving them down, using fill, a bit more than the thickness of your item. These recessed INTERIOR "stubs" will then let the item rest below the surface, within the hole, like when you sanded down the circle discs, but, without the WORK.... Just a thought....

This is awesome. I'm learning so much from you, thank you. I am with you I like things centered and lined up. I haven't tried it yet but this is so straight forward.

Great video Clack. Heading over to buy your files. Off to get some mirrors tomorrow

I purchased and being honest I cut the patterns in my board before I put the board on the tabs .... and YUP realized it right away and I won't use that because of the amount of time to line things up after its on the tabs. GREAT PRODUCT - works like a charm and very much appreciated! I had been looking for something like this for a very long time. This simplifies all of my repeatable process so much! Thank You! I not only saved my file, I locked the image after it was all set up.

Excellent video I downloaded your jig kit for my Aetzer P20 plus.

awesome info thanks

I am really enjoying your videos because of the way you present them...down home Alabamian, My laser (Atezr P20) finally arrived yesterday, and I can't wait to get it put together and begin burning stuff. I will be ordering this jig from you very shortly, hopefully it will work on my P20.

Eggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggslent !! Thanx for sharing. You Rock

Takk!

@TheClackShack - Two words. Virtual Array. Do the same thing but create it as a virtual array. Add the camper to the first circle. Select the camper and the circle. Right click on them and select Add to array. Boom. No need to have the extra grid of campers. (Love your stuff BTW. Need to buy one of your jigs to support the channel)

U could improve this fixture for this application by adding 2 locating pins for ur key rings. And by adding two wooden 1/2 inch long locators to hold the round rings one on each side. So for two key rings u need 4 1/2 inch pieces of wood (toothpicks) would work and 2 metal pins to locate in the holes and burn it.

I think I would have cut out the crescent shape then multiple engraved the circled area to remove some of the material (enough for the disc to sit flush with the top of the board.

Just mark two pins with a 1 and then mark the finger with a 1 on each side of the pin. On the fixture that stays with the machine. Then you just locate the jig fixture over the 1’s. Walla your back in the original location as when you started.

For something like this, could you just engrave out the thickness of the tag instead of completely cutting the plug and having to sand and tape it? You could potentially flip it over and use the other side of the board as another similar jig. One last thought would be to leave a nub where the keyring hole is to make it even more foolproof for centering. Love the content as always!

Engrave A. B. C. D. .... on the jig and put the proper letter on first lock on the jig panel to mark where the first lock needs to be put. That is, if you put it in same lock position each time.

Thanks for all your vids they’re really helping me get setup in my own place. Can you share what purifier or the vid that you share your setup on. As I’m getting deeper into laser I’m needing to clean the smoke off these laser projects. Thank you

Darn.The price on theses have really shot up in the year since you posted this.

i ooften use cardboaard to maake the cutting jigs. I have lots of it laying around so it's free and don't feel bad if II mess it up or need to change something and need too remake it.

ok I found this video and now it is crystal clear to me at least. I am going to buy your P20 Atezr jig kit file from Etsy and the only last question and if you did happen to mention it, I apologize for asking, is you have to use absolute coordinates for this to work correct? Thanks.

Got your 26.3mm jig off Etsy. For some reason the right side hole position was off enough to prevent the teeth from locking together. No biggie, I have calipers and measured and fixed it. Just fyi. Jigs seem to work great and are very easy. Don’t know what all the fuss is about.

What is the adjuster you have on your laser module? That looks very useful.... and your gantry is different as well..... can you speak to your setup?

Just what I needed to see! So, when I save it. I just replace the image & the laser will do the rest. And it will know where to go?

I have the Z1, will your jig system work without the honeycomb? looking to batch out coasters, is there a intro system you would suggest? I'm another beginner.

You didn't mention anything about the part at the back of the laser that this part hooked into. How is it attached to the laser?

I’m confused. On my D1 non-pro 10w I have no limit switches so home position is luck of the draw its gonna be precise, as I have a camera bracket installed on the back part of the frame. My question is with the Origin Position. This machine you’re using here, I believe, has limit switches so home is always consistent. On your D1 without limit switches, I’ve heard you say you use X1,Y1 or something close to that for home position. Do you bottom out the gantry against the back and the module to the side closest to where you want Home to be or do you have another method you use that takes some of the guess-work out of setting an Origin Position? I’ve been wracking my brain and getting wrapped around the axle (engineering background but not a math guy) Where can I set as my origin position so that it’s consistent?

On my D1, if I set it to home after cutting (no limit switches) will the head go back to the right spot on the jig after cutting the hole or adding more to the hole for engraving? Thanks

i don't have a laser and I enjoyed the video.

My xTool D1 (original) is very accurate and square. I cut the locking panel in the file download and the holes for the feet aren't the right distance apart. I don't know what the difference between your machine and mine is but it didn't work for me.

The only thing I do different is after creating the array is make it a tool path an Lock it before saving it. I have accidentally moved it once or twice before I did this.

Bought your jig file on Etsy. Curious as to what material you use for your jigs? Especially, what thickness?

Hiya, great video but how does this relate when using xcs?

Are the files only for particular machines? As I have a Flying bear Laser man. Or will they work on a fixed Honeycomb of any brand?

If u use a stiletto u just need a very small offset to remove ur pieces.

love your videos. Bought your gig template. What kind of wood are you using for the jig? Total beginner here...

Hello, is it possible to configure the template for the Design Space software?? Thank you

What part of bama I live in nw bama!! Roll tide😊

I just backed the elegoo phecda, it won’t be here for a bit, did you back one? If not is this pretty universall? This is my first time watching

so, i followed this video (and your others) exactly. I cut the locking panel and put it in place, then cut out a jig panel, and then attached it to the locking panel. I then opened the 4 inch square jig panel and moved the laser to center and framed, and it framed with the bottom of the bottom squared being below the jig panel. it looks like the whole thing needs to be moved up an inch. what am i doing wrong? fyi...i started with 16x16 panels.

Do you have jigs for the Atomstack A5?

Do you have a jig that will work on a longer ray5 10w?

I never got any of the locking panel to work...I'll have to make my own.

This setup requires absolute coordinates be used, right?

What kind of wood are you using now? Is it 1/4" or 5mm? I know you don't like the luan... The video cleared up alot of questions I had... Thanks..

The tags are aluminum? (link)

Now that you have had that machine for over 10 months what do you think of it?

Actually I think it's more about where is home set and how to set home so that every time I put a jig in my home point is set the same. How do you set a home point that is not default home that just bumps into the corner?

when i lock my jig panel into the interlocking panel and attempt to frame out my jig, it continuously runs off the panel. i am using your medium size jig (simply because i am attempting to make a 2ea 4in circle template for when i do slate and cork coasters. i know the circles will fit on the panel because i have physically placed the coasters on the panel to ensure the cut outs would fit and they do). I have even placed the top of the template up to the top of the artwork frame in Lightburn and it STILL runs off the panel when i am framing....thus telling me that i need to move my artwork up further...but i cannot! AAAAGGGGGHHHH!!!! This is really starting to get on my nerves!!

How do you know the distance to set the laser?

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎

starts with saying he will try and make a quick video, continues on for 51 minutes...

You need to show a different jig and set up them go back to this same jig and set up. Your not showing a jig that you all ready had made and realignment of the jig. Your not resetting a jig cause it's still set up.

A quick 51 minute video… lol

good but to many words for me.. bla bla bla.. ;)

P.S. Instead of deleting the jig project at about 10:29 how about changing the jig outline to a TOOL layer so you can see where/how many items to cut?? When I made my pencil jig, I kept the total board layout with cutouts shown, but, changed that cut layer to a TOOL layer to still see what is going on. Just easier for me and YMMV....

Good idea to set return to top left after burning. Is that programmed in LB?? Is this position saved in the project file? Thanks for ANOTHER great video... Hank