Making fishing boat from foam using electric motor 35 Km/h 

You know I am going to ask you to build a hydrofoil! I know it will be awesome! I was also thinking about how awesome it would be if you switched the gas engines in the big twin hull boat to a pair of electric motors from an electric car. Maybe you can find some from a crashed car if you can't get new ones cheap enough. As always I love the work you do and can't wait to see the next one.

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Cảm ơn bạn rất nhiều nha!

Did he pull out those thermocol sheets?

Yeah, he did such a clean build!

Rather interesting what he did with the angle grinder, using its gears. Hmm 🤔

ผมอยาก ดู 2 ใบจักร.ครับ ลุยคลื่น กึ่ง เรือดำน้ำ ครับ

Thank you very much!

Chuẩn ô ạ. Mấy cụ VN ta chế đồ siêu. H ra ngõ gặp toàn kỹ sư đỉnh không à ❤❤❤

Cảm ơn bạn rất nhiều nha!

Через 1 год всё разболтается . И эта лодка только на помойку годится!

Thank you very much! I will try to develop more, hope everyone will always support me!

What are the chemicals and products used ..reply pls

Он врунишка

4

Thank you very much!

Esas maquinas no sirven para andar una hora seguida y más con el peso de la elise el bobinado se quema muy rapido

It's actually made out of fiberglass, the foam board was used for the mould 👍

@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN Not a mould is it? It's a foam core between glass laminates from what I saw. Is that not correct?

@@i1uvpreppyxo887 What I see at 1:49 does not match that at 3:15. It looks like he's used at least two different boat building videos in this one. If you look you will see the First images of the bow are cut neat and not many sections used, in the later clip he has all sorts of cuts at different shapes. I've watched so many of his videos and different techniques that I'm actually not sure on this one anymore so you could be right Tim. I also thought the plastic he was using on top of the polystyrene was for easy removal from the mould/form but it could also be to prevent some melting of polystyrene from the wet polyester resin, an application of PVA would ( I think ) be a cheaper alternative and work just as Good for that. Seeing the thin section that he cut through at 3:19 tells me that the raised section beside it is the polystyrene from the beginning and the centre section was removed later for where the engine goes. So Tim, you're more than likely right and I got it wrong, I do remember questioning a few things in this video, probably because of some of his other videos with slightly different techniques towards his boat building leading me to jump to the wrong conclusion, oops! Edit... After reading the comment that I replied to ( Marion Farmer ) I may have been suggesting that the boat itself is actually a fiberglass boat built by forming around a foam core, mould or template. A fiberglass boat built around a foam core would have been better wording but it was late and I know that I was tired, but hey! It was a while ago Tim, who knows what I meant or thought, I'll try to be more careful hehe 🙂👍

the entire boat is a flotation chamber. if you smashed it into a hundred pieces it would still all float. it's formed on polystyrene, can't be more self bouyant.

@@jeffdray2500 You beat me to it, was gonna say the same thing!

Thank you very much, I have found and fixed the grease, but there are still some places that need to be fixed like you said are rubber bearings, I will fix it in the next video, hope you always support me!

Those vibrations are called critical rpms, you should avoif it as much as possible even good brand engine have criticals rpms. Its normal rpm, you just have to mark where it starta vibrating and avoid it.

@@christianpaulroldan4010 Yup, the RPM at the motor shaft seems fine, what's critical in my opinion is the prop-shaft and should be aligned or replaced, it's probably bent.

@@Eden_M i think shafts are good. . Rotating machine do vibrate when they are not secured properly and you will notice criticals vibrations need to avoid. With the help of bolts and clamps everything should go well. . Thats my opinion i respect yours.

BOLLOCKS !!! Mr. Knowitall !!!

eu também pensei nisso.porque fiquei pensando quanto tempo a aquelas baterias vão durar

I mentioned the same thing in one of his first videos. I grew up working on the water and have seen too many people die from not having some form of PFD. In his defense, I will say that in the video after my comment he did start wearing a vest. Having lived in Vietnam for a few years I can say that unfortunately, safety is not a priority. When no one else is taking safety precautions it can be easy to forget. It's hard enough to get people in the states to wear one.

на попутной волне зальет.и плохо если на винт намотает

Thank you very much!

앗 석면!

Большое спасибо, надеюсь, вы меня поддержите!

До первого подводного препятствия. И кирдык#

Из цельного баобаба вернее будет.

No Brasil tudo sai caro o país fdp tem nada barato aqui kkkk

Việt Nam , mấy vật liệu này cũng không đắt

A eletronica e motor vc encontra no Aliexpress o resto não sai caro, quem tem experiencia com fibra de vidro faz um bom projeto aquatico.

vê o vídeo de novo, parece q vc só viu ele já pronto...

@@marcelopires8838 não parceiro, apenas não sei o nome de alguns msm. Tmnc

Comaxit

i used polyester resin for gluing, but i pasted pvc sheet on foam so that foam won't be corroded by polyester resin

@@Nasatchannel there's a trick to Appling epoxy to foam without coroding the foam if you don't want to use PVC. You can paint the foam with simple laytex house paint for thermo protection, then apply epoxy and glass. (Hoping Google translates that property). Reason why I asked is that polyester resin is much less expensive than epoxy on the US where I live, but I've often heard it wasn't the best choice for this type of project.

@@LouisBackover Having a background in this type of construction I can tell you that using polyester in the manner you described is a disaster waiting to happen. There are two main reasons. One, if there is any spot where the resin can get through the paint it will eat up the foam on the inside. Two, the epoxy and fiberglass will delaminate from the foam. Both reasons one and two are due to the fact that foam is hydrophobic and will resist bonding with the paint. The way he's doing it will also have this problem but he's making these boats on the cheap for his videos. However, his method is still much stronger than using laytex paint. This hull design doesn't have a rigid stringer system. This means the hull will twist and flex with minimal effort leading to rapid and increased delamination. That's why high-end boat builders switched from injected foam and foam board to the honeycomb & vacuum bagging system to add rigidity to the hull. The honeycomb material fully adsorbs the resin. This stiffens the honeycomb and gives it better adhesion to the fiberglass.

@@LouisBackover Vinylester would be the happy medium wouldn't it? More waterproof than poly resin but much less expensive than epoxy.

@@LouisBackover My understanding is the Poly is more brittle and deterrrorates/cracks faster especially in the sun.. although if you can slow down the curing then it is much more flexable.. by doing it at night when it is cool. This works for both types but with poly it is really tricky cause it has to "kick" completely or it stays sticky... Best to test how long you can slow it down and under what conditions. For me a boat flexes. Period, so you want it to be flexable, rigged but flexable not brittle which is why you need to lay carbon fibers a certain way. Epoxy is really expensive and a bit heavier at least it feels like it if I remember correctly, but it is more flexible and usually lasts longer without cracking which leads to water getting in. Can't tell you how many boats I've worked on where they used wood and then put fiberglass over top and the wood rotted out. A good latex paint is a wonderful secret but again I have a technique that requires time but lasts tens of years. When I used to do boats I would thin out the oil base paint a lot then soak the wood with three to five layers depending on how much the wood drinks. Then when tacky but not "dry" I do it again with one to one thinned, then one quarter thinned and finally 10% thinned. With oil I found that some thinning works no matter what. I will do something similar with Latex but no more than one to one and them I will layer full strength but every paint is different and if you layer on too thick it will cry and droop but if you get it right it is like a thick plastic bag over everything. Then I'll put the skid wood on top to protect the paid from scuffs. Back to fiberglass. I learned that less is more, in fact many places use a vacuum bag to suck out all the resign or squeegee to squeeze as much as possible.. it's hard to do if you are used to using more resign like paint but it really works so much better an less cracks, less weight. Bizarre I know but I know guys that do surfboards and man .... Oh, I usually will do as much as I can in one cast because when you layer invariably those layers will separate or bubble etc.. But you can let is get a little rubbery and add the next layer... Hope this helps.. Blessings

Cảm ơn bạn nhiều lắm ạ!

Cảm ơn bạn rất nhiều nha!

Cảm ơn bạn rất nhiều nha, mình sẽ thử!

@@Nasatchannel trông lắm, bạn ra từng phần công đoạn thi công coi cho hấp dẫn hihi

Same here, little light, one my dog can ride aswell, never know, a flood, are just fun.

Cảm ơn bạn rất nhiều nha, mình sẽ làm thử!