Making MagBall Arms for the ANYCUBIC Predator.

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This video describes how I made MagBall arms to suit my ANYCUBIC Predator 3D Printer.
The introduction will explain some of the background followed by the process of machining and assembling the arms.
Please be sure to visit my website where you will be able to download all the featured still images along with a dimension drawing of the Delrin (Acetal) magnet ends plus with links and other hardware information not covered in the video.
In the video you will see that I am using my own designed effector that already incorporates provision for MagBalls. Information regarding this is not included. However there are already printable adapters available on Thingiverse. I do not make or have intention to make my arms for sale, I simply provide this information for those people who are like minded and interested I’m making their own.
Website: www.hamrx8.com/...

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Опубликовано:

29 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 20

@Wittmason 2 месяца назад

Great craftsmanship machining and ingenuity!

@arva1kes Год назад

But where did you get the end parts for effector and the ones on the beltdrive?

@vader3t3 2 года назад

Excellent video! Glad you made it

@HaydnHuntley 3 года назад

This is an interesting solution and beautifully documented!

@hamrx8 3 года назад

Thanks Hayden I appreciate your comment, you were my inspiration.

@HaydnHuntley 3 года назад

@@hamrx8 Werner Berry was my inspiration!

@sky__net9797 3 года назад

possible to take off the fish eye end and tap the KD310 to m4 and screw in the original predator rod? Also was wondering why Huntley put magnets on the rods when all the kossels seem to have the steel balls on the end of rods?

@hamrx8 3 года назад

Honestly yes it might just might be possible but not something I considered doing. I looked at the magnet type that Kossels use and the magnets are half that of what I use and very rough, I didn't like them. I don't think it matters if the magnets are on the rods or the effector. Functionally it would be the same.

@АндрейГоловко-п6ч 3 года назад

Thanks for the great idea and documentation! After visiting your site I decided to do it. The caps of the rods are printed, the rest is according to the instructions. And it worked!

@creamofbotulismsoup9900 3 года назад

One thing that I'm curious about, is why not make the arms a bit shorter to match the length of the stock rods. What I mean is, the stock rods are ~440mm from the center of the fisheyes, but with this you're adding 440mm rods to the radius of the balls minus the bit that is inset into the socket which basically makes the diagonal rod length around ~460mm instead by my estimation. Hayden did the same thing with his rods too, that's about the only thing that bugs me about them. It eats up a bit of Z height on top of what the balls add vs stock. I guess it's not a huge deal, I've only come close to using up the entire Z height on my predator a few times, and It's no where near as bad as mounting the entire hotend below the effector, like what using a smart effector does.

@hamrx8 3 года назад

Thanks for commenting. For me I will never use close to the full height of my predator so matching my rod length to exactly the originals was not significant. I wont ever use a smart effector as I do make my own CNC machined from Aluminium incorporating a Mosquito.

@creamofbotulismsoup9900 3 года назад

@@hamrx8 Yeah I guess now that you mention it aluminum would be cheaper if you didn't already have the tooling needed to handle steel. Any cheese grade drill and tap set would be able to handle it, need to spend a fair amount extra and would want to have a drill press to be able to get through the 100 odd holes that you would need to tap if you use steel(or 50 if you skip every other hole).

@hamrx8 3 года назад

@@creamofbotulismsoup9900 I don't think that its so much that Aluminium would be cheaper but more that is is a better material for this application. Plus being easier to drill and tap. Also I only put screws in every second rail hole to secure it but in my opinion every third would probably be quite ok. Get yourself an M4 Spiral Tap and use lubricant when taping the holes. I use an electric screw driver or a drill at low speed makes tapping holes much faster.

@creamofbotulismsoup9900 3 года назад

@@hamrx8 I know that using steel is totally overkill and possibly more trouble than it's worth. It's not that much harder to deal with though if you have the right tools. The size I want is available locally, I'd have to have the aluminum shipped. Similarly I'll probably be going for SAE hardware since I have to pay a premium for good metric drills and taps here in the US. I guess I can always change my mind, maybe, but I don't mind a bit of overkill.

@罗五二 3 года назад

@@hamrx8 But should the stiffness of the shorter arm be better?What is your current Z-height and print area？

@teikjoon 3 года назад

Hello! Since you used the KD310...do the magnets hold? Would you recommend getting the KD312 (with 2kg holding force) instead? They both use m3 threads.

@hamrx8 3 года назад

I tested the KD310 up to 3.4Kg, they have never failed while printing. I did initially consider the KD12 but personally don't think that size to be necessary when the KD310's hold well beyond their stated specification. Just make sure you get good quality ones. I did get one batch that were all chrome plated magnets included and they were rubbish.

@teikjoon 3 года назад

@@hamrx8 Allright thanks, did you get them from Magtool store over on Aliexpress?

@hamrx8 3 года назад

@@teikjoon Yes I did :)