#GTWRIndicatorHolder Now onto the D2 tool steel swivel pins. These have threads, tapers and shoulders, and are loctited into the arm piece. / craigsworkshop craigsworkshop.net
Thanks Yves. Yes, getting there gradually. I have the footage for another video ready and waiting, so I should be able to get that out within a couple of days.
Well do, and watching full build...Glad when one shows even the things that can frustrate when turning such small dim & treading,, When I get some doctor bills paid off, will become a patron,,that's a promise,,Bear in TX Cheers. On to part 4 now (@@)!
Gday Craig, the domed ends look really good, that a bit strange how the piece broke, maybe it did harden and become brittle, I’ve never seen that before, this indicator holder is going to look really nice when it’s finished, Cheers Matty
Cheers Matty. Yes - I think it's down to work hardening (as opposed to red-heat hardening). I learned my lesson though and went easier on it and kept it cold and lubed, and used a sharp tool and took smaller cuts. Seemed to behave better then.
Me neither! It's a bit fiddly, and I'm very much a novice with it, but on paper it has some excellent characteristics. If you can get it to machine the way you want to, then I imagine the part would never wear out (with a proper post-machining heat treat).
Like the time lapse on the nut fitting, it takes ages in real time lol. Shame about the work piece snapping off. Nice work and good content Craig. Tony
Cheers Bill. More coming soon. Yes I need to be very careful with the D2. Wondering if super sharp HSS, light cuts and a soluble oil coolant might be a better bet.
Leaky memory is suggesting that machining was done with a flood coolant system and the era of D2's development points to hss tools being used, mind you a 20ft dia main gun bearing is a bit different to a 5mm thread 😁
@@billbaggins yep. Time to either get my mist coolant system up and running (not as good as flood, but much better than I currently use..). That or a squeeze bottle full of soluble oil like I've seen Max Grant (and possibly Stefan?) use.
A quick bit of research seems to prove me wrong, for milling at least. A forum suggests higher speeds with no coolant at all or only using air. Maybe it's not very well suited to threading, which makes sense for a material mainly designed for making bearings. It is also not a good steel for forging. I used to use an airbrush compressor for drilling in stainless and it worked really well as well as being much less messy. May also be worth annealing it again, a mapp gas burner should do that with small pieces but it does need to cool slowly over at least 6 hours, otherwise it will just harden. It does have a reputation of being a bit tricky to machine but that is offset by ease of hardening and excellent dimensional stability and being a semi stainless steel. If you had asked me 5-10 yrs ago I would have had a better answer but i only retain stuff relevant to my immediate needs. 😁
Hi Craig. At the time 7:29 measuring the depth using a vernier calliper, you can also use the vernier with the dial facing up. With the jaws wide open push the fixed jaw of the vernier calliper to the face to the face you are measuring from and with the variable jaw slide it out until the jaw drops over the edge the surface edge. This is another way to measure instead of turning over the calliper.
Thanks for the tip Graeme, yes I do sometimes use the back of the jaws for step measuring - I thought this was a suitable way too, just because the parts were so small. Possibly easier to see whether I'm measuring correctly? I'll try it both ways next time and see how it goes. Cheers, Craig
A mix of engine oil and kerosene (mostly kerosene). I have recently changed over to soluble oil, I bought a 1L container which makes 20L when diluted, and I have been applying it with an old sauce bottle. It's a little messier, but doesn't smoke, and keeps the work and cutter actually cold, not just warm. I like it so far.
Craig's Workshop thanks Craig. Will give it a go. I’ve not used anything while using carbide inserts I didn’t think we could but after watching you part that off and how smooth it went I’m going to give it a go. Thank you for sharing.
@@MichaelEdwards2 no problem. The secrets to parting off seem to be: a really square approach to the work, lots of lube, slower speed than you would normally use for turning (I go half speed at most), sharp tool, and steady consistent feed. I think in this case I'm using an insert that I have honed with a small diamond file/diamond card which makes it more fragile but of course sharper. That part may not be necessary, I'm just being a cheapskate. 🙂 But it might be helping the part off, I am not sure. Of course the bigger/heavier the lathe and the tighter the compound and cross slide gibs the better too, and don't forget to lock off the carriage.
Craig's Workshop thank Craig will give that a go. I was parting off a inch and a half free turning bar yesterday with HHS blade and it exploded half way through the job. I was using molyslip but at £10 for 500ml it’s expensive. So going to try and purchase a carbide parting tool today. As you made it look like cutting butter.
