Making your Engel Car Fridge work better! 

What's your best fridge mod or tip?

Thanks. Looking forward to seeing your testing in high temperatures.

I like this to my kegerator fridges up in Darwin. In the buildup - the sides of the fridges are burning hot due to the fridge working so hard to try cool the intervals that it burns itself up. It's basically always running in extreme heat and barely reaches 4 degrees it's target. In the winter, no problem, sides are cool

After watching this I checked heat above the vents on our Engel MTV Combi 60ltr and sure enough there was plenty of heat build up. I lifted the cover and the heat released, let the cover sit for another 5 mins came back to see if heat had built up, and it had. So I removed the cover cut out all the mesh and refitted the cover and minimal heat was felt around vents. Aside from noticeably less heat it was cycling less. This morning I checked and again minimal heat was felt from top vent but, the fruit juice was partially frozen. The mesh very clearly traps heat and only makes the compressor unnecessarily work harder producing more heat to compensate for the heat entrapped by the mesh. We'll leave the cover on without mesh as sitting in the back of fourby the cover provides protection from physical impact and direct sunlight which should assist in maintaining temps.

I've had a couple of Engels over the years. I added a computer fan to the compressor end and found it helped dissipate much better than relying on convection. With the transit bag, I did a lot of camping in NQ and found it did help the fridge stay cooler. The cushion helps keep the sun off the lid when its in the back of the car. I did take to the mesh with a hot soldiering iron and cut 3/4 of it out though, left just enough for it to maintain its shape. Paying for a transit bag though. Tell them their competition offered to throw one into the deal and you'll get one.

Interesting 🤔 look forward to the summer tests. Thanks for the video 👍

Mate, best review I've seen. Saw this posted on a forum, impressive approach, no bs. Subbed. Looking forward to looking at your other stuff. Thanks & Cheers PP

Would love to see your wonderful efficiency tests comparing 12v AGM vs 13.8v step-up vs 15v output from a USB-C PD supply (using a trigger board set to 15v connected to a 12v USB-C PD charger supply (you have to be careful to get one that can output 15v@5A connected to a 12v car accessory outlet, because many hide that the upper PD voltages like 15v and 20v only work if the supply is plugged into a car running a 24v system 🤣) I’ve found these new GaN USB-C PD supplies to be really efficient, and so I’m transitioning evening I can to USB-C where possible. It’s also nice that doing so eliminates a lot of extra cabling to carry. Great video ! ♥️

Massive review! Very insightful. I appreciate your efforts. You are a scientist indeed!

Now that's a video that will get shared many times over. A great effort 👍.

Great info, I have debated myself many times on the cover. I will continue to run with no cover & just do my best to keep it out of the sun.

great testing again mate, thanks for your efforts 👍🍻

Also looking forward to test in higher temperature as I’m in Queensland Thanks and keep up the great videos

Great video 👍 and I live in the tropics in North Queensland and I’m with you. No cover all the way. And also I’ve seen Engels rust on the outside from the cover from condensation build up. Looking forward to more videos of yours

Thankyou, the test with the cover was very interesting

Thanks for sharing mate. Very interesting.

Certainly keen to see the summer test

Classic - well done - i had a suspicion these covers were dodgy.

Thanks Simon , another great informative video, yes I’d be interested in seeing if the cover in summer , say 36-38 degrees have detrimental effects to the performance of the Engel. Thank you for the time and money you have invested to give us this info, this info is valuable to novice campers and 4X4. Cheers

My test setup would be to let the fridge run, in both environments, until the 5th, 10th, 20th, etc cycle of the thermostat. Then read the cumulative current draw at that time and compare. As it stands, the results of your test, at best, would indicate that yes, the fridge cools better/faster with a steady 14.x vdc input. As far as overall power consumption, let your tests run until a temperature setpoint is reached for both tests. Then draw your conclusions. My reasoning? I had a 75L Norcold (its similar model here in the States), but mine has a 24v mode. Runs on 12v or 24v, and when on 24v, the compressor was able to spin faster and for longer periods. Perhaps it was just my model's inverter-compressor setup, but I used around a 30-33% less power (Ah) on 24 vs 12. I used a 12v - 24v DC-DC converter I picked up from everybody's favorite (here in the States at least) online retailer.

Would also like to see results of this in and out of cover in direct sunlight as if it’s on the back of the Ute. Interesting results I’m surprised more people aren’t doing real tests like this

I came here looking for diy covers. Now it seems i need to design my own. Air gapped with a pc extractor fan over where the fridge heat exhaust vent is.

Epic testing man

Well done enjoyed your knowledgeable presentation, have subscribed.

Definately keen to see how efficient the covers are at 40 degrees. Also interested to see if other brands suffer the same problem. Great content👍

Good video mate. Subscribed 👍🏻

Nice video mate, interesting! Subscribed. Cheers.

Your tests are very interesting I would be curious to see in hot weather. I usually leave my tail gait window up to try and get some air in the car.

Great test mate, My engel struggles to dissipate heat from the condenser in a hot car, I wired up a computer fan to suck the heat out (similar to what you did with the pedestal fan) and it's improved the performance pretty well

Well done mate! I almost bought the cover and now I'm glad I didn't. Thanks so Much. GOD, Guns & Gumbo

I'd be interested to see how the same fridge and bag respond if you remove the mesh on the openings of the bag.

Yay I was wondering if you were gonna do this video😂

First time watching your channel, love it. Superbly helpful review! Love the data driven approach, no nonsense just the stats. As you say I wonder with the fridge cover if there's a turning point where above a certain temp, when outside temps are higher (30-40ºC) the benefit of a bit of extra insulation in the bag outweighs the reduction of airflow... Will check out some of your other vids to see if you tested that :)

Great Video again Simon,I'm With Ren would be interesting to see the same test in summer Temps,but it too late I spent money on a cover...need to get a Volt step-up ..Thanks

Glad my cover came for free with my fridge 😱

Facinating results with the cover section. I am removing mine as a result.

this is fantastic

Another good video. Side note, it’s Hyst-er-esis not Hyst-erious, there is another ‘s’ in there. Keep up the great work Cobba 👌🏼

It’s all about airflow just like a car radiator. mesh over the front increased heat, mesh over the Engle increased heat.

Mate nice video. Interesting on my 40l engel the water/condensation buildup between fridge and the bag when set on freezer. The new covers for the waeco cfx3 is just a protective cover with no insulation and no mesh on the vents. Unless the fridge is direct sunlight can't see the need for a cover .....and your test showed that. Cheers

Hi Simon, as per comments below, 12 degrees is not the norm, 35 in the day and 17 overnight is more realistic. Also opening the lid is an issue, maybe when you do your summer tests introduce the inflated wine cask liners so that cool air is nor dissipated.( BTW I can supply the wine cask liner)

After seeing the results I purchased a 12v computer fan and will attach to fridge to help ventilation.

Thank you

That’s interesting your test on the fridge cover. I own a Engel 40L combi fridge and found without the fridge cover my fridge compressor was on more often and consumed more power. I had to put the fridge cover back on so my ice cream would not melt during summer. I live in QLD so our summers is probably a lot hotter I’m going to test this out with my Victron gear.

I believe the cover is designed to insulate the fridge from direct sunlight in higher ambient temperatures.I suggest direct sunlight on a 35c day. Good video, I didn’t consider the step-up converters.

Ive often thought my fridge runs hotter with the cover on. I agree the cover keeps the heat in.

Great scientific tests! I actually rebuilt my entire fridge slide carcass to get another 30mm clearance to fit the cover. Now I think that was in pointless after watching this 🤦🏽‍♂️. I like the protection the cover gives, maybe just cut the mesh out?!

Good video. I agree that it would be interesting to see the same test (with/ without transit cover) conducted under higher ambient temperatures. FYI, I also bought the transit cover for a new 40L MT-V Engel fridge on the basis it would both protect my investment and improve it's efficiency.........Seems like we are all suckers to good marketing

I am thinking a very small solar panel. With a temp controller and computer fans. It says in engel manual. Vent cooling will increase efficiency. Also steady voltage will make fridge run better. I spoke to snowy outdoors. They said the cover is to stop the sun heating the cabinet. Running in canopy it not really needed. Insulation on canopy would improve things. Same if you got windows. Blocking the sun. Merry Christmas and thanks for the videos.

In my experience, a full fridge being opened and closed regularly during the day works better because it retains greater cold mass and less cold air escaping. It gets back to temperature quicker. My brother's covered Engel was in such great condition that Engel warrantied repairs years after the warranty ran out because they could see it had been looked after.

Great vid mate,yeah would really like to know with high temperatures and with the sun on the fridge as most fridges sit in the back exposed with the window.

Another Great video, keep em up.

Great video and topic mate. Talking about covers, I remove my cover quite a while ago now as I thought my fridge wasn't that efficient. Not only the power consumption, but I could stick my hand between the cover and the fridge cabinet and it was quite hot, however the external temp of the bag was quite cool. I have a Waeco CFX 50 sitting in the back of my car which runs most of the time. After having a board failure, prior to bag removal, I replaced the controller with a an Ebay special and fitted a 125mm internal 12V fan, out of a Samsung Dryer. End of Problems. The Fridge is now over 20yrs old with a neatly mounted digital controller. I do like your Idea for the step up and throw that cover to the shit house lol and your fridge will be happy.

Plus will look at adding a computer fan, I have a few lying around and did add fans to my 3 way caravan fridge too and improved its performance out of sight.

excellent presentation -- NO FLUFF!! Lots of useful info, well documented and explained. I suppose I could ask you how you feel about the Engel over other excellent fridges (Snomaster, National Luna) that are considered high line models. I understand that the Sawafuji compressor in the Engel has some interesting properties (and some people swear they're better than "regular" compressors (Danfoss and Secop included)) and MAY last longer but the downside seems to be not as efficient (more power hungry) compared to other compressors. For myself, I like the Engel design and construction a lot. You also seem to be a fan of them!

Very interesting..... For the test between full and part full, maybe do a test over a couple of hours, opening the fridge every 15 minutes and see how it goes. On covers, why do they make most of them in black now? Surely that will absorb heat if the fridge is in the sun at all. My cover is silver on the inside and black/dark grey on the outside. It seemed silly to me, so I turned it inside out so the silver was on the outside. As far as I know, silver will reflect warmth, but it can't reflect coolth! How about cutting the mesh off the vents in the cover? Would that help? Keep up the good work!

Thanks mate, good info. I wonder what these numbers would like on a less expensive fridge. I know Engel are efficient anyway, but some of the other brands, such as Fridgemate, ARB. Off to go take the cover off my ARB 60l. Cheers.

Hi Simon, another terrific vid from you, I am glad I subscribed! The data doesn't lie. If you look at the mesh, well it covers 50% of the ventilation doesn't it? I mean if each strand is 1mm, and there are 100 strands, I guess 100mm is being blocked (actual numbers may vary). I guess you could cut the mesh away and just leave the hole, would that help? Cheers mate.

We have been testing 24v ( Max 29.4v ) 7s2p bat. packs for a few years now for fridges, using 1865 & now 2170 LI and a 14 Bat. pack will run most fridges for 20+ hours, depends on draw, how full and # of times opened. Due to OHMs law the cabling can be 'thinner' and most fridges in Oz are 12v/24v so I know from experience that running them at 24V is much better than 12v :)

I have fitted a dometic fridge 3 way in a old van a few months back. A add extra is a vent fan in the instructions which you can buy, the new to old unit as a fan now installed. To make it run better. I made a controller from jaycar kit and relay. It works great. also online instructions say add a vent fan, and put insulation around the sides and top. I think the cover wrong. The cabinet yes but where the workings are no. It would be better fitting a cheap ebay temp controller and one or two small computer fan. Then you will see it run real great. Russell

Would be interesting to run an infrared sensor over the fridge to find the hot spots with a view to removing the insulation or providing a small computer fan to improve ventilation.

Wellu just saved me! Owe u a cold one!

Just a point on the 'Full or Part-full' issue - the test doesn't take into account the frequent opening and closing of normal operation. A full fridge has a substantial heat-sink (or should I say coolness-sink) effect, so frequent opening will have a lesser effect than on a partially-filled one, thus keeping it full should be more efficient.

I was thinking about a few bits of wood underneath to allow for better air flow, cheers!

Wow what a result! Would be interested to see what something like a Waeco CFX series (plastics rather than steel) would test like? If you were nearby I'd lend you mine for a test! Very interesting that's for sure!

Wow very surprised with the cover

How about a myth buster video on that fuel doctor stuff??

Interesting review.....I need to look into those step up converters. PS....I didn’t realize you were so short....my Engel is 45cm high and only reaches the top of my knees.......🤪

Definitely interesting results and I wonder if this is across the different brands of fridges like Dometic/Waeco etc... With the cover supposedly to reduce the amount of heat gain under direct sun exposure, I wonder what your results would be if you repeated the same test under direct sunlight and warmish conditions? Would the heat build up be less, therefore requiring less heat dissipation and the fridge/freezer models then being more efficient than those without a cover?

Did you happen to test the power consumption of the actual step up voltage converter (as in total system draw)? Thanks great video 👍

Love your myth buster style of testing. Wonder if the waeco fridges and other brands would be the same ??

Looking at just the fridge mode for the fridge cover test, doens't the graph show that the compressor kicks in less with the cover on (3 times versus 7), which should mean that a cover is more efficient over a longer period of time. This makes sense - the cover increases insulation and therefore keeps the fridge cooler longer.

What i think the tests failed to capture was in the real world fridges get open and close multiple time per day... meaning a full fridge will have less air to escape when you open the lid as apposed to a partially full fridge which will have much more available air to escape. Also a full fridge has more thermal mass that will help the air in the fridge cool down faster (thermal equilibrium with the air inside the fridge and the fridge contents).

Was told a long time ago that the covers were good if your fridge was in direct sunlight. But if in an enclosed area to remove the cover.

When I use my fridge on my tray in the elements I run the cover but when it goes in the canopy or back of the Mrs wagon cover comes off it just incubated heat with it on with no air flow around it

If there was ever a video

I would love to see a hot weather test, how close are you? 😉 ALSO I would love to know the internal cabin temperature difference between your white cruiser and a black one?

In regards to the fridge been empty or not, would be good to measure when opening and closing the fridge as a half empty fridge would allow more space for warm air to enter. Just a thought.

I wonder if the ambient was higher would the tables turn with the cover on or off.

Your series of fridge temp tests is the most informative I have seen. I realize this is an old post but wonder if you could answer this, please? I use my fridge as a freezer and as you said to run it like that uses 30% more battery. At -5 deg it will keep functioning on a 200Ah battery and 300w solar panels. At -10 deg it will cut off (fridge low battery level setting 12.4v) about 8:30pm and restart around 7:00am but a slight defrost is noticed. If I set the fridge to -15 deg during the day (the solar system handles this temp easily) and reset it at 7:00pm to -5 deg for the night it seems to stay frozen until the next morning. What would you recommend as the best option for the fridge and food ???? 1. Leave the setting at -5 deg 2 Set the morning temp to -15 deg for the day and reset the late afternoon temp at -5 deg for the night 3 Set the temp to -18 deg and just turn the fridge off for the night. Cheers mate All the best for the New Year

It makes me wonder if the slots in the side of the fridge restrict the air flow as well? If they were opened up more it would allow better air flow.

The covers protect the frigde

There's comments about the cover on a hot day, I would think the direct sun light on the fridge body itself would be the problem.

Can u please test the cover during the heat of the day with fridge inside a 4wd ?

Great vid. I would like to know how weather proof the fridges are. I have had my waeco cf40 on the back of my ute for a couple of years, Cover on. I know of someone who has had there’s in a ute for about 5 years. Still going strong. Is there anything really in them that rain and sun will damage?

Hmmm, interesting. I recently got a 32l engel and haven't gone for the cover. It will be strapped down in the rear of a hilux dual cab, away from heat, dust and the like. I think it's a set up that doesn't require a transit bag.

Very interested in seeing this tested in high temperatures.

I would also like to see the results of the cover on/off for insulation if the fridge was turned off. So how long would it stay cool with the cover on/off if the fridge was to turn off (real world: your battery dies and you are looking to keep the content cool for as long as possible)

Another very interesting video. So now I'm wondering what would happen if the fridge bag was left ON and the vents were cut out ? Does the modest restriction of the vents really make that much difference ? Maybe it's because that the bag is a loose fit and the warmer ambient temperature air, is filling the void between the bag and the fridge, and it's warming the bag. Which might mean that the bag is working like a warmer blanket that retards the efficiency of the fridge ? I'm also wondering if some of the warmer air that the fridge is extracting, is leaking between the bag and the fridge ? (I better check that out). My Engle fridge came with the bag at no extra cost due to a sales promotion. So I'm lucky enough, not to have buyers regret. As the LED light stays on full time inside my Engle with the lid shut, I could see light escaping past the seal, which means the fridge is losing efficiency. I think it's a common Engle problem and something I'm going to fix today. I always thought the seals were too thin on these fridges, but apart from that, I'm happy with the Engel due to the low current drawing swing motor. 😁👍🏼

wonder how well a small computer fan would in terms of benefit vs extra ah used. since your saving quite a bit with cooling fan might work out the same?? small temp sensor setup so it only turns on when compressor get above certain temp

So a thought, two fans, or more, the fans fitted on vent. Bottom fan, blowing in. Top fan blowing out. You could put one on each side. The fans run about 35mA. Not much, with a temp controller there will run when set right, on a hot day more, on a cold day maybe not at all. Next. The cheap insulation. Put on three sides and top. Maybe Styrofoam or foam. Also if fitted in a canopy of a tourer, the canopy could have insulation. Or canopy with dust free venting where the fridge is fitted. Most people want fridge sides, but what's better is venting first. The heat needs to dissipate, any one will sell anything if people buy it. Maybe a canopy that positive vents. Helps fridge and stops dust.

A fridge cover will only help when it is really hot (above 25 ambient) as the losses in a fridge are proportional to the square of the temperature difference between the inside and outside temperature

I think the problem here may be the ambient temp being so low. The cover is working like a blanket to keep heat in at that low temp. Would this be the case still in the back of a 4x4 at 35-42C? If it is still the cae then the only reason to have a cover (and I have had once since I bought the fridge a decade and a hald ago or more) would be to protect the fridge exterior. BTW. As a creator you might want to know that I am subscribed with all notifications turned on and I am not getting notified of all your uploads by RU-vid... I came to this vid via the end screen in your latest release.

I always assumed the cover made a difference where you couldn't get the fridge in the shade. When boating wy icebox gets smoking hot in the sun, now after buying a portable fridge I'm building a DIY cover for it so the cover can soak up the sun and not directly heat up the top of the fridge. Won't be using mesh in front of the ventilation holes tho ;)

Yes please, can you do a test in higher ambient temperatures. You could use a heater in a room. I’m sick of using my protector, gets in the way when accessing the fridge. I always thought that it was ok to put up with it for better fridge/freezer efficiency. Now it makes sense when I set the temp to -13C and the ice cream doesn’t go rock hard..... I know first world problems 🤣🤣🤣

What about cut out the mesh over the vents and test cover in higher temp.

Is the step up voltage safe to use on the older engels 80s/90s style

Something I have always wondered, as I have a Waeco CF80 and my old one didn't have a cover. My new Waeco CF80 has a cover and I get overtemp cut off when in my car in QLD which I never used to with my old fridge. I thought it was the fridge, maybe not watching this...I think I might take the cover off and see what happens. Thanks for the info...

Hi mate, in regards to the performance with a fully loaded and partially loaded fridge and freezer was the product already at temp or did it have to cool it down as well? Speculating that if the product was down to temp before you would see a greater difference in the performance between both. Also when the fridge got to temp did the performance differ from partially and fully stocked fridge/freezer. As others have stated I’m wondering if cutting the mesh out would help with heat dissipation. Also putting Velcro between the fridge and bag around the cutouts I think would help keeping a tighter seal around the bag to dissipate heat. I use to repair all types of camping fridges and was able to upgrade from the original dial to a newer series with the temp read out and light so I’d say you’d be able to upgrade to the digital temp setting. Also there should be a computer fan already underneath the compressor to dissipate heat.

Not convinced yet. My fridge runs 24/7 between battery and solar with a pretty consistent temperature. Often gets 50+ in my car and now I am wondering whether the case protects the fridge from this. Looking forward to you testing in the hotter weather.