Maptun Stage 4 on This Saab 9-5 Aero! 

Exactly what happened to my stage 3 05 9-3. Blew out the number one cylinder wall. Had to replace the engine, learn a lot about these engines ie how thin the cylinder walls actually are.

Hey Have you ever had an issue with your Saab being slugish times to times ? Because with my 9-3 it sometimes accelerates rly fast whilst other times it rly slowly goes up and takes 4 seconds to go from 40-50 km/h

@@ruslansmarkovs9749 I would say it's either heat soak or a weak battery.

Lmfao we had to get creative to find some Wi-Fi! 🤣

i second this execept i wouldnt go above 310 on stock T7 pistons and rods

@@teokarlsson305 rods are fine, as long as you aren't reving to 7k you can comfortably max out a td04hl hybrid setup

you're probably making upwards of 330hp then, I assume it's a manaul? Those are just faster and can hold more torque

Hi, How did you get it to chirp in terms of mods ?

awesome!

Driveline clunk? How can you tell? How can you detect if the half shaft is worn?

@@milkphish4122 it's that rumble with speed dependent frequency, that gets worse when idling along at higher speeds on level ground when the shaft is not loaded and goes offcenter creating a vibration. Theoretical of course. Jack it up, in neutral and see if the shaft elbows have any play at all, even a tiny rattle is not good in the long run, but usually a failing unit has a fairly loose elbow you can move side to side. Launching around corners and when turning at an intersection is hard on them.

I understand your point, if you intend to use the power only from 3rd gear up which is what make sense with a fwd lay out then it makes sense. Some people like me don't really care about being fast in first and second gear. I drive lot on highways and fast B roads and torque steer is never a issue as I am not trying to ruin the car from a standstill or at lower speeds. To each his own they say

This car was never about being very fast from standstill, but from 2nd gear and forward, doing hard pulls midrange on the highway and such. Usuable power, its what saab gets you. As of fwd and torque steer i agree with you, but the problems can be eliminated/reduced with some chassie mods. One of my got aeros got 450 nm but it got lots of chassie mods, dont have a problem with torque steer. The other one i have got a stage 1 one 400 nm, its got minor chassi mods but its improved the torque steer good enough.

midrange pulls are more fun than starting from a standstill anyways, and it's way safer/better for your drivetrain. Plus how well your car gets off the line is pointless if you're hitting some backroads

I saw on the Facebook group that he sells them and ships them to people with rusty ones. It's not cheap tho.

@@karlschroen392 a lot cheaper than goldwing!!

Odd choice of part to stack up. If the subframe is that bad, the body probably looks like swiss cheese. I'm in Michigan with 200K+ on my SAABs and the subframe is fine.

The way I see it is stage 1 would be just remap, stage 2 is catback and air filter, stage 3 is dowpipe+fpr and intercooler for 3+, then 4 would be stock turbo location but upgraded and where you would need to get forged internals, so a hybrid or 19t, and stage 5 is full send, gtx3071r or something stupid with 500+ whp I'd call this 9-5 stage 3+, even though he had a turbo upgrade because the internals are stock

you will still definitely put my power down with a manual

The auto has a max before you have issues without a built trans. The manuals can handle more power before having to do mods to it.

@@Staatus_Quo what do you mean by build trans. I would have to get work done to the trans?

@@erbi7745 usually a trans that has beefed up internals, clutch packs, etc.

Stock vs. stock an auto will handle more torque than a manual, but you can’t really upgrade autos once you start getting into deep power levels. The auto however is geared better and suits the car more imho

Maptun has it on their website what the requirements are for each stage.

LOL you have a 2003 model (Bad Luck!) use T8 Suit to map it out of the ECU then disconnect the SAI fan and block of the other end of the pipe by removing the housing inserting a blanking plate the replace the housing.

@@Lamster66 haha if only I knew how to tune, or had a tool to tune it with. and I know.. my girlfriend's 2004 doesn't have the SAI pump and I'm jealous.

@@alexraia1377 If you're in the UK look up a guy called SAABNOOB. He's a bit of an expert with T8 suit. If you send him your ecu He will stage1 map it and delete the SAI for you when you get it back it just a case of undoing 3 bolts the take the top off the SAI fit a blanking plate (lid from a baked bean tin) if you haven't got a steel plate handy. The unp'ug the fan thats under the manifold at the front of the engine.

Maptun doesn’t really do anything, I haven’t seen any maptun car that’s put down any serious power or good times

Technically No as top speed is determined through the gearbox ratio to engine revs The engine will only rev to about 6500rpm before you're in danger of causing damage by over reving the engine. Years ago I had a SAAB CS9000 2.3Turbo which is a similar but stronger engine (Bottom end) than the 9-5 That was tuned to 320BHP up from the 205BHP Standard The Book 0-60mph was about 7.2sec, with the tune it was sub 5sec. STD top speed was 155mph factory with the tune it easily did that I once had 160mph and there was plenty more there. I would guess it would have made 165 or 170 if my nerve did go first it might have been possible. After that I never got the oppertunity to open it up like that again as the max speed where I live is 70mph and anything over 100mph is an instant Ban. This car still looked slower than my CS9000 2.3T My old CS9000 at 100mph in top gear would spin the wheels if you floored it A third gear pull was about 2 or 3 seconds and that only because of the turbo lag once the turbo spooled you had to shift as it would red line virtually instantly. and all the way through that pull the speedo bounced as the car danced between having traction and not. 1st gear was virtually unusable if you actually wanted the car to move rather than sit in plumes of smoke. 2nd gear wasn't much better that would torque steer the wheel out of your hand whilst burning chucks of rubber out of the tyres. The Trick was to drop the clutch instantly shift to second short shift to 3rd before flooring it 4th and 5th were ok as long as you weren't flooring it as the car would spin in both of those gears too if you did. Car eventally destryed the gearbox and at the time the car wasn't really worth much so it was scrapped. But to this day it remains the fastest car owned in almost 40years of driving.

I believe so, my stage one 9-3 2.0T Aero does around 260 kph (161 mph). Stock should do 235kph

@@victor555117 I can assure you it doesn't I sold my NG 93 2 years ago 260BHP 380Nm. And I'd say that topped out at about 145MPH That is the point it stops accelerating. Yes it might make 150mph down hill with wind behind it but no way onthe planet will it make 160 with a stage 1 Stock is 210bhp for all 2.0T 93s unless its a Hirsch tuned model that are tuned to 250 bhp 350Nm frim Factory. which basically matches the output of a stock 93 2.8 V6 Aero. If you want a proper Fast SAAB stage3 a 2.8V6T or a 2.3T 95. And get a proper tune not a maptune. The 2.0T and the OG93 2.0T which I still have my 1999 93 Aero coupe. Are great cars to stage 1 or 2 as you only need to map them and the performance boost is great bang for buck. it starts getting expensive beyond that because you have to start changing parts stage 3 needs a downpipe and 3"cat.back exhaust, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, and a tune once you go beyond that you need bigger turbo and forged pistons and bottom end. As modern saab engines are basically GM rubbish that will fail when you try to extract over 350hp. Unlike the 2.3T engine the 9000 had which could handle 500HP without engine mods. The problem then is the gears box and drive shafts cant handle the power. And so it goes on. The real answer is if you want a fast car buy a car that's fast to begin with. don't try to build one unless you've got a good job and friendly bank manager

@@Lamster66 sub 5sec after the tune, 320hp only on FWD? how is that possible mate?

Didnt happen to my friends. Going strong still

Why would it? The B235R is basically indestructible, and the official Hirsch-specced 9-5:s came with 305hp/440nm so they aren’t really pushing beyond any limit.

@@viktorjjakobsson9710 I think it's because the B235 had weaker internals in comparison to the B234, so often for super high power builds you usually have to rebuild it.

B235 made from Aluminum while B234 is metal.

@@PandaPi123 wrong

auto