Over a year ago you introduced me to the wonders of ma.k and I can't thank you enough. Working on my 6th kit now, obsession in full swing, you rock linc! Thank you for the depth of your tips, love hearing the studio experiences and creative processes.
Hey Jeff, wow thanks buddy - made my day and welcome to Ma.K Brobot! 6th kit, well done and I hope you are enjoying them. There's a surprising amount of depth and variety, I'm still in love with them too! Cheers, stay in touch bro!
Not gonna lie, I can normally process the dad jokes .. they appeal to me at a level that's genetic. But 'That's what she said' at 12:54 made me laugh so hard I snorted coffee. Well played Linc! Well played!
Looks like that putty is a non-newtonian fluid, meaning it doesnt follow the laws of viscosity and if you move slowly, it stretches and moves more like a fluid and when you apply force, it stiffens up and snaps instead of stretching. Bizarre to use it for modelling but it looks like fun!
that's exactly it Brendan, my daughter spotted it and pointed it out too. I had never heard of this but was vaguely aware of how glass works, especially over time. We tested it a bunch more times and it has exactly those properties and reforms on itself really well. So after finishing the project I am more positive on it, pretty nifty stuff. It's so bizarre to use first time, yeah!
Hi Luke - Easy, wire and spring! I'll include it in the tutorials on my website shortly, I've had an idea on adding some to a new MK44 after some inspiration from Max Watanabe and the photos he just sent through.
I'm truly sorry Maphew404, as I receive this kits directly from the vendors, I'm quite clueless on how the real world works for buying them. Hopefully someone can help us or join on of my online communities to get help from the other folks - I have both Facebook and Discord Communities now, links are in the video details.
Hey Maphew404, Hobbylink Japan is a good source direct from Japan. The kits are cheap but the shipping can be steep. As for US based sellers, nobody seems to be a distributor unfortunately but you can find a reasonably priced kit if you shop around the specialty toy/Gundam online retailers every so often. Galactic Toys currently has the Prowler and SAFS Protoype from Wave and Sprue Brothers has a good selection of the Hasegawa kits.
Thanks guys. The the main issue is the shipping cost. Most of these models are kinda pricey as is, but add in the shipping cost outside of the states and that's a good chunk to the final cost. Will look around more.
That is not the worst paint lid ever. Citadel ants Lids are the worst they are designed to dry out your paint. Paint will get into the seal and gum it up and if you let it build up it will prevent you from shutting the pot. So you have to go in with a pick and dig out all that wasted paint. And its 4 to 8 usd for less then ten mils. Great paint shit pots.
I have a love/hate relationship with Ma.k. Awesome looking kits, very expensive, badly made/designed. Calling Bandai kits easy is hilarious. Id love to see you finish a MG or PG. That's hundreds of parts to preshade, postshade, weather/etc. Plus the internals. Also, acrylics that are airbrushed only take a few minutes to be able to be handled. To be primed/etc, an hour or so for quality acrylics. I don't know any professional modelers that wait the next day... that's absurd.
hey Ronan, thanks for the reply! Regarding "Easy Bandai", to be more clear, I really mean the quality of construction is much higher. So they go together much easier. Even if they have more parts, that amazing Bandai construction quality makes them much easier for the build phase. As compared with WAVE or I think I mentioned Hasegawa? Now for acrylics, I mentioned waiting 24hrs before asking them to do heavy duty work for me right? That follows the manufactures recommendations of allowing 24hrs for them to fully cure before tough jobs or using light solvents over the top, such as I did for my weathering steps. For handling and spraying additional layers, yes we are on the same page. In fact, I re-primed and base coated all the colours, re-painted some panels, added decals and then varnished all in one day. Then left it for 24hrs before doing weathering steps. I hope this helps explain myself better, my apologies for not always being super clear about detail points. When I am making this stuff, there's lots of things to focus on, it's harder than it looks. Sometimes the model is the easy part!
I think you'll find that Lincoln often runs thinner and after effects over the acrylics with nowhere near as many top coats as a 'traditional acrylic painter' (which I am), would typically put on. After going through a ton of his videos I've concluded that's because of the extra time he's allowing his primer and base coats (sometimes multiples of) to cure properly providing a much more sturdy surface to work on. It's not something I've ever done but I might have to give it a crack seeing some of the downstream time saving involved.. which is def something I'd prefer.
@@@EvilhomerNZ nailed it! Yes, all part of my "Less but Better" approach. Often waiting a short time, whilst using that time for something else, can save us time overall. Good eye for spotting that, thank you for allowing yourself to think outside the box to understand that. :)
