I built my first SAFS in the mid-80's and didn't know much about the background. At that time I just simply love the look of SAFS (it looks liked a toilet bowl with limbs). I purchased all different models of which I could find. I remembered I had bought SAFS, Racoon, Fireball, AFS, AFS MKII, Neuspotter , PKA, Gustav, Hornisse. Too bad my skill are horrible and most of them did not complete right. I bought more in the 00's went Nitto reproduced them again under Ma.K, but most of them were sat in draws for nearly 20 years. I started picking up model building in 2021 and at first I was building RG Evangelion and then found Ma.K on online shopping Apps. After that I went crazy to buy any models that I could find and building them. In fact, I had shipped my old models from HK to SH last year so I can build the old ones and the new ones. For the last two years, I had built 2 Melusine (old and new version by Wave), 2 SAFS (Nitto), 1 AFS (Nitto), 1 AFS Mk II (Nitto), 1 Prowler (Nitto), 2 Fireball SG (old and new version by Wave), 1 Seapig (Wave), 1 Racoon (new version by Wave), 1 Polar Bear (old version by Wave), 1 Luna Pawn, 1 New Rally Pawn and 1 Ghostknight. For the old ones, I still have the Nitto's Jerry, Fleder Maus, Nutrocker, Krote, Fliege not yet started and the new ones that waiting to start including 1 Camel, 1 SAFS MK III, 1 Axeknight, 1 Ammoknight, 2 Vega/Altair, 1 Ketzer. The recent trip to Tokyo, I brought 6 more back to SH, including a Gladiator, Super Jerry, Raptor, Rapoon, SAFS Prototype and Archelon (I swear to god, if I wasn't using a 20" suitcase for my trip I will buy more than 6 as there are still few I could not find in SH). Currently, working on a Falke Ostu. I really admire the works by Sensei Yokoyama since I was a kid. It is great to find out there are a lot of people like the series and I can buy and building the series again. Even though my skill haven't gotten improved very much. The idea of enjoying the process is a thumb up to Sensei Yokoyama. Sensei Lic, thank you for the video and the sharing. Look forward to see more works from your.
Thank you for this video!! I’m from the US and I was running in circles trying to figure out what kinds of paints would be best for my kits and you clarifying that Tamiya calls their regular paints “acrylics” has made all my headaches go away
Thanks for outlining your process clearly, I was taught that lacquer over acrylic is a huge no-no, but I'm glad you were able to make it work with some patience!
I've just learned of these kits and already have the Lum Camel on the way. I have recently got back into modelling after taking a long enforced break for health reasons, now I have regained around 95%of my mobility on my left side I feel I can enjoy the hobby once again.
Ill be honest, I came by machinen krieger art when looking for reference images. Took me days to figure out what it was and even then whenever I looked up machinenkrieger all i saw was just tutorials on putting them together.
Hi Lincoln, Happy Easter. quick question. when you do the weathering with the brush and let it settle for a while. can you spray a light mist of Matt varnish on top to seal it in or will the varnish dilute the effect? cheers Will😮
Thank you for everything you do for the Ma.K community! Discovered your awesome channel a few years back from your Gunpla videos. Listening to your passion for Ma.K makes me want to slot my first Ma.K kit next in my build backlog!
Wonderful colours! Can i ask what base coat primer colour you would use for white/light grey (eg the rx-78-2) - like a zenithal, or just a flat base coat?
Right now, I'm building the New Rally Pawn from the Maschinen Krieger series in 1/20. I have stripped an old broken Lap Top to get a bunch of small wires for the kit. I'll be giving your technique I'm now watching here. Wish me luck!
i know this video is old, but i just saw it as im getting into gunpla building. another trick you can do (with practice on trash pieces) is that you can flick the brush with the material on it. the flicks onto surfaces add random effects of both size and area of coverage. the finger trick to spread on oil/sweat in some areas will help this effect to stick, but not really needed. The foam applicator that comes with those effect kits, can be used in a very light touch dragging motion on edges and surfaces to create an "over time / dirty rain" effect, e.g. using the shin of a leg, you can drag from the top edge of the shin, down the surface. btw, as finding the actual model kit version of this effect tool is tough, using black or charcoal grey eye makeup can do the same thing (ive been using that recently and i see similar results).
Hello Lincoln. I couldn't understand the suggestion to add a little product to Mr. Color 21. What product would this be, a basic yellow? Thanks in advance. Cheers from Brazil.
Hi Lincoln, I am assembling some WAVE Ma.K Series of models. I had assembled Nitto version of Ma.K in my early day, and the pipes connecting legs and hip in Nitto are metal spring. While WAVE use PC to replace the metal spring and I found it difficult to get the paint stick on it. I had used under coat (Mr. Hobby Mr. Surfacer/Mr. Finishing) on the PC pipes before spraying metalic paint. The paint just fall-off when I touched it, kind of like chipping. Any trick for those PC?
great video, many thanks. I used the plastic Chinese takeout containers as the basis for my wet pallet. it's small, has a lid and can be easily replaced. I am struggling however with the paper. parchment versus baking versus greaseproof. parchment is double sided silicones where as grease is single. I can understand the logic but isn't the paper supposed to soak the water in? anyway il keep trying. many thanks, these are great videos and I have shared them with some fellow modellers here in Ireland. Happy Christmas!! Will
