I will never surf waves like this. I wonder how high is the stoke factor? How fun is it? These are guys who show up with assist, safety and video crews and the objective is to get great footage. And they do. Jaw dropping to watch. One great ride can make money and a career. But how fun is it, independent of all that?
Itd be awesome i reckon.. Its kinda like mountaineering.. You can die any time the mountain sneezes or shakes.. rockfall.. avalanche.. a slip.. a storm.. rope fail.. etc etc.. endless danger.. Mountains are probably even more dangerous.. but its extremely worth it. Id just hate the hold down if i got caught inside. Id prefer to die on a big peak tbh. It doesnt scare me much thinking of dying and suffering on a mountain cause the reward is amazing. I get why they do this.
There’s a very small percentage of people that actually want to surf something like this. The preparation is like no other sport. A lot of these guys surfing Nazare are super mild manor, and you wouldn’t imagine that 60-80ft waves would be on their “to do” list haha
