Great job man. I had an old man show his way of getting a broken tap out is to shatter the broken tap with a punch while in the hole. Seemed to work for me and was able to get the broken tap pieces out because the tap is more brittle. Hope this helps anyone
I am almost at the point of installing my brake lines in my 1960 pick-up so this video was very helpful and timely. Thanks for all the work you do in putting things together so they are easily understood. You make the work "fun".
Just a tip man, try the copper/nickel brake and fuel line. It'll change your life. Also a trick for straightening the brake line, lay it on a flat floor and roll it back and forth with your foot. I made a draw through tool for straightening the line too. I bought 5 sheeves for 1/4" rope, built it on a piece of 3x3" angle about 8" long. The top 2 sheeves are attached to a bolt so I can adjust the pressure down on the line as I pull it through. Love the progress
On my wife's laptop can't send comments all the time , but won't you to know how much I like your work and I am subscribed . and would like to order sometime. Keep up the work.
Another excellent video Puddin’. Broken drill bits and taps are part of the projects, especially with the small ones. Getting broken taps removed is black magic art in itself.thanks for showing your work always a good day to visit Puddin’s Fab Shop!
anybody who ever flared a brake line has forgotten the nut at least once. nice job to have done. forward progress. I think the loops are also to help cool the fluid.
Every build I do there's a point I go on RU-vid to see ideas and your videos always come up.. I officially owe you a beer man. It's not that I don't know how to do things I like to see other people's ideas. & That bolt.. I'm going to weld all my tabs way before paint. You do great work
I used to work with an old welder and his trick for a broken tap, was to chisel/punch it out of the hole and either re-tap or go a size larger. Great video.
Super nice job. Another nagging item off the list, performed and shared in an honest and professional way. I really appreciate you taking the time to record and document your journey. And I truly appreciate that you are a perfectionist-tempered-realist ...... willing to accept what is real while always striving for the best possible outcome. Great work. 👍😎👍 your going to love driving this beast 😊
Good morning. I like to use self-tapping screws for my clamps. They work great. Uncle Rick has lots of tricks. Nice work on the brake lines. You must be using soft lines. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Great video man, just going to start my pickup, this was very helpful, well explained and I appreciate how you showed each stage very well. Well done!!
Yea I had to cut off the bolts to get the old proportioning valve off, but I'm not putting the new one back down there, was looking at mounting it to the firewall. Got some ideas from you but I'm using stainless steel lines so I need a hydrolic flare tool. Need to make my lines and take them to a shop. fun
Nice job. I did exactly the same thing, broke off a tap in my frame (because I didn’t have the right size drill bit for the tap, it was a weekend and I was too rammy to wait). Here’s a trick: CRC makes a product named Freeze-Off, used to free rusted bolts. Spray that junk on the imbedded tap until she is frozen real good and hit it with a hammer and punch. The broken tap will shatter. Also, try and space your line clamps at least every 8”.... just how I was taught and it has worked well for me. Always enjoy your channel. Keep up the good work!
I don't know many who haven't snapped a drill or tap at some point. I've even left a bit of the easi-out stuck in the stuck thing which is joyous. Be well and stay safe.
On my c10 I broke my fair share of taps for all kinds of line clamps. Helpful hint that helped me out a time or two, smack the broken chunk of tap in the hole with a punch and it should shatter the tap and if you are lucky you can re-use the original hole. Awesome project! I enjoy the videos!
Turned out very nice bending them by hand! I tend to kink them by hand so I use a bender, works pretty good hard to get a tight 90 with a bender though!
Really nice Travelall - I had one I bought that the Idyllwild Ca. college School of Music had and didn't put many miles on it that ran like a top. When I bought it there was only about 45k miles if I remember correctly. So wish I still had it and was in near perfect condition. Didn't like that it was yellow though.
I found a video on RU-vid, from a user called "asquaregarden" who build a tubing straightener for his vice. Works really good, and was pretty cheap. I turned my old vice into a dedicated straightener, and bought a new, bigger vice for other uses.
Ummm, I did just wake up, but,,,, I think you hooked the front and back brake line to the master backwards. Unless you have a master I have never seen before, the back port on the master goes to the front brakes and front port on the master goes to the rear.... I could be wrong, but it is worth checking....
Just look up any speedway master cylinder kit. They plumb it to the proportioning valve like so, and then from there they are definitely plumbed correctly.
@@PuddinsFabShop Ok, I did and I found some that are forward primary, but most I found are rear bowl to front (DISC) brakes. I guess that is all I ever noticed. Typically the larger reservoir is primary and goes to the disc brakes. Secondary to rear drums..
If someone is under your truck and giving you shit about a broken tap or drill bit kick them in the nuts when they are under there they wont say another word about it 😂
Rustoleum. I don’t recommend it. I swear when a fly lands on it it chips. That being said I rattle canned it. Sprayed out a gun may have better results.
Looking to do something just like this never did brake lines and would rather a shop do it can anyone tell me a ball park price and to bench bleed master and all 4 brake
