One question , pye: if we set the Light correctly for a specific pattern and all of a sudden, the model changes his/her position, it screws everything up again, right? Meaning that we have to constantly move our Light source accordingly to her position.
@@uandersonbrittes6526 I'm not Pye but yes; If the model changes position where the pattern no longer works then you'd have to move your light sources to get the pattern you'd like to get.
This is HQ content. As a beginner with little to no experience, I think this is all I need for a quick reference. Thank you Adorama, SLR Lounge and Pye.
Whilst I have seen hundreds of videos on flash portrait photography, none explained the notion of the scale of drama relating to the degree of shadow before and it all makes sense now. Great video very well explained…thank you!
This is an awesome series. Pye, thank you very much!!! I love the simple explanations and how you make application to natural light as well as studio. I really have been enjoying this series.
Excellent video. Very well explained. Tone of voice, the pace of the video, the graphics - all well done. And the added humor is terrific. Keep making more of this type of video.
This is the most concise, clearest, and most comprehensive video on how to achieve the 5 primary key light patterns that I have found on the web. Also, useful is his discussion on the purpose of each type of lighting--that ranges from the most flattering to the most dramatic. And his historical references are interesting too. Excellent video.
Top of the line video. Learned a lot. A suggestion even if you are a master drawer; Set-a-Light 3D. I have nothing to do with them but it's a great way for a photography educator to illustrate a point. Thank you for your time and work. Already subscribed and a big thumb up.
Informative and useful. Amazing video and simplified the lights. I am going to use these types now while clicking pictures. Great way of explanation. Cool 😎🤘
enjoyable, informative and effective. thank you for the effort and the sharing. i welcome more of these types of lighting vids. perhaps future vids can discuss constant light sources along with the use of flashes/strobes. thumbs up.
Another name for Butterfly lighting is Glamour. Thus it was used as you mention in Hollywood where the primary subject is a very attractive female. A major key to getting this lighting accurately if to always make sure that the photographer views his subject with the light in place so that the nose shadow extend 1/3 down the upper lip when the subject is smiling. If you set the light without this last adjustment, then when the subject smiles, the nose shadow will drop too low and creep into the upper teeth area which not result in a flattering portrait. Someone mentioned the use of the modelling light. It is basically impossible to create Rembrandt lighting on a subject because, (wait for it) everyone's nose is different thus creating a shadow that is either not touching the cheek shadow or has passed the intersection. This is the main reason that images created via a flash that does not have a modelling light it is better to use Loop or Modified Butterfly which can be easily explained how it can be done no matter which of the 5 facial views is used at time of exposure. One other thing I have noticed and not just in this tutorial related primarily to wedding couple images but to other portraits also. Just consider wedding images. 1. the eye tends to go to points of contrast and also the lightest/brightest area of the image. Brides usually wear white and grooms generally wear black. Thus we want the eye to go first to the bride and then follow to the groom. Once the eye strikes the black then the eye is stopped and contained within the frame. If the bride is on the far side of the groom, the eye is naturally drawn to her in white and skips the groom often almost entirely. 2. Because men are generally taller than their selected brides, a strong diagonal line is created between the couple. If this line is created from the man down to the woman, there is a strong compositional line drawing the viewers eye out of the image. Over a 33 year period spent as primarily a wedding/portrait photographer, I can only recall once that I photographed a couple in which the groom was shorter than the bride. 3. Particularly with wedding images, when couples are photographed full length, the bridal gown is significantly long and may have either a train or long bridal veil that can be spread in a diagonal pattern to additionally lead the eye into the frame before the color/contrast concept takes over as one views the image. Hopefully these few additional tips will be of value. YMMV
Thanks, Pye for the interesting subject and presentation. Highly useful information! Question: besides the drama created with the increase in shadow detail, can't you use the loop, rembrandt, and split lighting for "thinning" a face?
My wife walked in while I was watching your video and she actually thought that you were Drake (the rapper) LOL Thank you for the video, really nicely explained
So I was looking up the word drama to help me figure out how much drama I want to convey in portrait photographs (something that I initially thought was you either make the subject look slimmer or you don't so this is like a leveling up to a real pro photographer's mindset already) - when we think of drama usually we think of theatre and performing or fake which might derail someone from wanting to use it in a portrait photo BUT it can also mean, "incident, scene, spectacle, crisis; excitement, thrill, sensation, adventure, affair, business, occasion, circumstance; disturbance, row, commotion, turmoil, etc" according to our good friend, Webster. So with this in mind is it more humbling to show a short lit loop or Rembrandt when we want to convey an emotion of teaching from experience just as you did in this video...? Vs showing a broad lit face which might make viewer feel intimidated (so it's not just that short lighting is slimming but could these be key cues to help us determine mine when to use one over another)? Thanks so much!!
Pye, I definitely enjoy your videos, find them very informative. I have one question, based on the fact that I am retired and on limited income. I have three Godoc speedlights (tt 685n) plus x-pro trigger. Do not have much else and am convinced I can obtain good results with three speedlights, one trigger, three light stands. On the lights I have small diffusers that I can attach (probably for outside work). Inside, plan on bouncing my lights when I can. Bounce off ceiling or walls. I haven't practiced yet as really hard to find someone willing to sit and be bored. Question, will the bounce give me positive results on the five (5) different lighting scenarios you mentioned in this video. I definitely will be practicing, but any advise that you could give would be greatly appreciated.
Since you're on a limited income, I'd recommend instead of bouncing with portrait work but to use a shoot through or reflective umbrella. Umbrellas are the least espensive modifiers and provide very soft light when positioned properly.
@@transparent1054 Umbrellas come in many variations for shoot through, reflective, covered etc. As a result there are many options. You will need a light stand, a flash holder, umbrella and possible a black cover for more control of light. A light stand might be $10-25, umbrella $8-30, flash holder that has a hole in which to secure the metal shaft of the umbrella. Start with one. You do not need 3 for 3 speed lights, all these light patterns should be done with a single light until you master it and maybe add another speed light for rim light or background lighting etc. Don't worry about those. You can practice with a low cost Styrofoam hair styling head mounted on a light stand. They are very cheap at beauty supply stores. Get a styling wig also($5-20) and experiment and when you are more confident in getting the light patterns you seek consistently you are ready to invide friends or neighbors for test sessions. If you practiced well, you will seen confident and set up quickly which gives live models more assurances that you know what you are doing and do not need their advice.. Don't bore your live models, or they will not come back. Once you can see a subject and light then in a flattering way or intriguing way, you will have no problem getting volunteers and can even start charging for stranger portraits to support your equipment fund. Another addition that is cheap at hobby or arts and craft stores is Foam Core, a large sheet of white paper or plastic covered Styrofoam that has a hundred uses in a studio, for reflecting fill light, blocking stray light, etc. That is cheap also. You do not need fancy equipment or spend much to have a very effective little studio. Most beginners are focused on studio equipment which can be expensive because it has to be rugged and secure in a working studio but you do not need that at all since you are the only one using your mini-studio. Good luck and have fun
Can a portrait still be good if the shadow doesn’t fall into a distinct category? For example, something in between loop and Rembrandt where the highlight isn’t a distinct triangle but the nose shadow is barely starting to meet the side of the face so not completely loop either. Thanks!
Flary Fox lighting patterns aren’t rules. If it accomplishes what you want and the client likes it, that’s what matters. It may be helpful to become familiar with light so you can reproduce the effect you want
Here is an interesting fact that you can use to improve your next video tutorial. When people read, view videos or images in the western world, they do it from left to right. You as the host of this video should of been on the left side of the Rules of Third, as most of the focus a viewer put would of been on you. Your props should of been where you are. Exchange places with your props and see how it looks on your next video. I would prefer to see it like that.
3:46 That isn't Paramount Lighting. They didn't use beauty dishes in the 30s they used arc lights which created much harder light than a beauty dish. Also the lights were much higher so that the nose shadow almost touched the lip and the catchlight (if there even was one) was VERY high in the eye--often so high that it wasn't even there. THIS is Paramount Lighting: www.maxfactor.com/en-gb/our-brand/iconic-looks/marlene-dietrich
I have love and hate for Rembrandt lighting. Love the drama, but hate it's jeckyll & hyde character. Many times the shadow side looks ugly or scary compared to the highlight side.