So , I have surfed some pretty juicy stuff , I shared the wave in my profile pic with Twiggy for two days when it was solid 8 foot with only a handful of peeps on it.. Taking off at Mav's like that knowing its just gona be a drop is pretty insane.I can do it when its three times overhead , but in the above heaviness. Nope..WOW. I can appreciate how tough these men be. Hero's of the surf world.
Almost nobody ever gets barreled there and makes it out, which is a shame. Hollow on the peak but then it starts to pinch almost immediately. I wish it stayed open like Jaws does, or even Cortes Bank. Far more likely to get pitted on the left.
Yeah it’s cool that it’s so big, but nobody really gets barreled. It’s just go straight mostly. Still a cool wave - I have love for all types of waves.
