This problem has been solved, I contacted the guy who poured the pad to come out and verify the thickness, he said the pad is good. I ordered the epoxy anchor set from maxjax and used that as instructed and it now works perfect, just make sure to buy more epoxy because they only send 1 tube. Tested it with a BMW e46 M3 and an X5 no problems. Left car on lift for weeks shook it and all stable and secure.
Concrete isn't thick enough. When you drill into it the bottom can cone out and the anchor will spin. You really need 5 to 6 inches thick in my opinion. Saw cut it, rebar it and pour it thicker. Plenty of vids on it. Also, those control joints are cracks,....I stayed 6 inches away from any cracks. I didn't experience any of the issues you're talking about and used compression only on the anchors, no epoxy. My inserts wound up maybe an eighth of an inch below the concrete and did not spin when tightened. So, basically your concrete isn't thick enough. Not the end of the world.
I had the same problem as you recently. Maxjax post against the wall the anchors went in fine. Other post anchors would not bite. Ended up only having 3 1/2 inches of concrete there. Solution was to saw cut concrete approximately 30x30x 8 inches deep and install rebar and under cut slab. I poured new concrete 2 weeks ago and am drilling new anchors tomorrow I’ll still be waiting 2 more weeks before using. Gotta love delays. GL! Also you must clean anchor holes before installing. I used an old toothbrush a shop vac and compressed air. Did each hole 3 times. If not dust can make anchors spin and not bite.
The best bet would be to pull those threaded pieces up by threading a bolt into them,& wilst holding them up as hard as you can,cut the excess off with a angle grinder.Bit of skill required,but not tooo dificult.DONT cut right threw the bolt.As someone pointed out,I'd say the concrete is not quite thick enough,but this would still be ok.Easiest/cheapest solution..The hardest thing to overcome, is to try & stop the treaded bits from falling down into the dirt,underneath the floor,too much as the bolt part might not be long enough to engage the thread,once the lift is in position.Worth a crack
So I'm having exactly same issue right now, been good for few years now I noticed same issue like yours, im debating on going with the epoxy and new anchors they sell, I read your comment that you went tht route, my question is can I use the existing holes I had drilled for previous anchors?
Beat the anchors into the stone under the concrete . Long punch or whatever . Most likely concrete thickness is not quite 4 inches .So anchors would not set properly . After you beat them down measure thickness . Had this porblem with mine some holes 4 inch some 3 1/2 , some 3 1/4 . 4 inch concrete poured with 2x4 form is not going to be 4 thick . hope this helps.
The manufacturer is really screwing people over by telling them this can be used with 4" concrete. No way anyone should be using any 2 post lift with less than 6-8 inches or high strength concrete. This looks like either the holes are too large due to a worn drill bit or the concrete is too thin in the middle, which is common.
Had the same exact problem. You got two solutions imo: A.) beat those anchors down into the dirt and start over. Use a ton of epoxy but then you’re relying on the epoxy solely and not the butterfly’s on The anchors B. Cut out that section and dig deeper and pour new concrete. That’s what we did.. 2’x2’x10” with rebar. Works great.
Im having the same issue. One side went good. The other side down towards the bottom some of the holes had small pockets in it causing the anchors not to bite. Im also going the epoxy route on that side.
That's what I did, still going strong ...just changed brakes on my girls BMW X1 today with no issues. There is superficial cracks but the concrete guy said it was okay, I had him inspect the anchor points.
Im waiting to hear back from them. Apparently they did a design change and the epoxy anchors are now a 5/8th hole instead of a 7/8th hole. But i already have all my 7/8ths holes drilled so that puts me in a pickle if its actually changed.
That would suck because you would need to move the jack or somehow fill the the holes, ask them for the old anchors hopefully they have them in stock somewhere, I have some because I only used them on 1 side but I am hesitant to part with them because they have become a commodity and you never know when they will be needed... @@bmxguy985
This doesn't affect your problem but you should not be installing anchors so close to a control joint, it derates the anchors capacity and carries a high risk of cracking. Control joints exist to relieve the stress in the slab by intentionally cracking at the joint.
I had the same issue with mine. Found out certain spots were 4 inches and other places were not. I had to recut and pour to repair. I ended up using wedge anchors since I won’t be moving the lift and it will stay stationary. Before My new concrete I also pounded those maxjax anchors though the concrete and used the wedge achors before I knew the concrete was to thin just fyi. I bought 7/8 achors from Home Depot online.
THE NEW M6K REQUIRES to drill 5" deep. If your floor is only 4", the room where the expansion of the anchor is the sand (loose) underneath. If you try to pull it out with the sacrificial bolt, now it sticks out, which is not the right way to do it. On the other side note, wait until you mount the balance valve soon, got some weird instruction there.
When looking up "maxjax failures" something like this is not an issue, i wouldn't call it a failure, i had to cut out and pour a 7" 24x24 concrete pad, since i only had a little over 3" concrete. you can use as little as 3-1/2" embedment with wedge anchors and 4000psi but 4-5" anchors are ideal for peace of mind, the deeper the anchors the better
Btw all anchors should be 6 inches from all control joints . Yours are really close looks like . I poured 4 by 4 by 12 inch deep cut outs , with rebar . still waiting on anchor epoxy from bend pak .
I think if I ever put in a lift I'll bolt down a much larger 1/2" thick steel base plate. Say, like 24x24 or something with permanent anchors around the perimeter of the plate over top of the flush expansion anchors making it almost impossible to pull out.
I had that issue with one of my anchors. One thing to consider when using a hammer drill is if you push near the bottom of the concrete you can blow out the bottom causing a cone and effectively reducing your cement thickness. Also, I see you have an impact. Do not use that since it can cause the spinning issue. Lastly, I put one of my posts edge 4 inches away from a joint and it cracked the cement. Once I moved it to another location it's fine so far. Just pay close attention because the instructions specifically tell you to not mount over a joint.
Glad I saw this, you hit every operator error in one concise comment. Like every tool you need to know how to use it, choosing to do this installation yourself puts responsibility on you knowing basics but you never know what you don't know. You will pay for your education one way or another. Using RU-vid to ask for help is humbling.
Dude if your concrete is 4 inch and you need 5, you drill too deep be safe and cut out a pad and poor new concrete and make sure you put 7 inch with rebar or drill bigger holes and use bigger anchors in the same holes but do not push them down too deep
This is highly unfortunate, but great video. It's the only one that I came across that has shown someone with an actual situation. I'm thinking of buying a Max Jax, but after seeing this, I now know that I've changed my mind. I noticed how we have the same floor set up. I'll be keeping an eye out on how this ends up for you. Good luck brother.
I agree it totally sucks it took me almost one year get the nerve to drop 2500 on this jack ... all u saw was good reviews online like the old dude with his bs 3 year review. I have had it for about 5 months now and still have not been able to complete the install. Customer service was no help, I made this video for them. I dropped another 250 on epoxy anchors but I’m hesitant to even go under a car with this jack. For the price point I think there are much better options. I can say with certainty at this point regret the purchase. I’ll post my next move.
You have to set the anchor in further and ratchet the bolt to the floor till it doesn’t spin anymore. The anchor will rise back up as you do that, setting the anchor in place. Just cut the patch out with a rental saw and re pour the floor.
A little bit under maybe. Mine came up but not much as I recall. His concrete is too thin and maybe he wallowed out the hole when he drilled it. Probably didn't clean the holes out either with compressed air.
I have the same EXACT problem. The instructions state 4” min. of concrete. This is incorrect. The fasteners need 5” solid concrete to work properly. My garage is 4.25 - 4.5 and they do not BITE correctly. Thanks for sharing the video. The MK6 lift is using old installation instructions. That or Maxjax is falsely adverting this product. Either way this is very dangerous to someone installing their new lift per instructions.
I am not impressed with the jack I think there might have been better options for a lower price... I just got the epoxy anchors and plan to install them soon
Drive the anchors all way down. Then epoxy some bolts into them holes. I set up 2 of these and never used then anchors just harden bolt and epoxy. You get the bolts needed with no head at a place like fastenal
any updates on the issue? and resolution? mine is doing something similar and it is not setting properly. my concrete is poured to 12" actually so minimum depth should not be an issue.
I have not had time to mess with the lift for the past few months, I ordered the maxjax epoxy anchors and haven't gotten around to install them. I just pounded the old anchors into the dirt with a really long punch bar today and will probably just throw them in the next week or so. I'm just going to install it and do a stress test hopefully it holds up.
@@rod1285 oh, so pounding them in some more after they spin is ok? I have a few that spin too and Im trying to avoid having to re--pour. I already have a 5'x5'x12" new slab per side so I rather not re-do that.
Yup see that all the time. Blowing them out and vacuuming them out only works 60% of the time. Needs to be washed out with water and you won't have an issue
I left the posts in the same spot, I got a long medal metal rod and a sledgehammer and beat the old anchors down into the dirt. The new epoxy anchors were placed directly on top in the same holes. The epoxy anchors set max jax sent me did not have enough epoxy, I had to go to home depot and buy the same stuff. Works great held up with with a bmw x5 on the lift, I only had to do the epoxy anchors on one side. The grab anchors on the other side worked as they should.
I think should cut out the whole area between the 2 posts and 4'wide. Repour with 5000 psi concrete 8" deep. 4" is no where thick enough for a 2 post lift wo the overhead support bar between the posts. If those ankor bolts let loose the posts will come inward dumping the car on you. Better yet get rid of that thing and get a bend pack 4 post lift. You can even move that with the caster kit. Much better and safer. They have rolling trolly jacks so you can remove the wheels for brake work itc.
Cutting 4 inches of concrete is super easy. I don't know why all the complaints on here about it. Just rent a walk behind wet saw and while you're at it put some control joints in the driveway too. I mean, ....the concrete is what's holding the lift in place so it better be thick and strong. Just get some ready mix from one of those one yard delivery places. I would do maybe a a 2 x 2 but drill in some rebar and mark where it is.
I just did this and blew through 1 anchor bolt hole which started to spin i used the extra bolt with nut and pulled it up a little and it tighted right up to 95ft lbs. I had to repour pads 20x20 5inch deep with rebar 8000psi mix quick set dayton hd 50 $43.00 for a 50lb bag.
This concrete is for repair on bridges and air port runways should be very sold and cures within a hour to 2000psi, 3hrs 3500 psi, 5000 in 24 hrs and 27 days 8000 psi. Now i don't have to wait 27 days for the concrete to cure, but cost me a pretty penny for the bags.
My concrete wasnt thick enough and cracking so I cut out 2 3x3 areas (where the towers would be) then I dug about 7 inches under the remaining concrete and about around 14 inches down. I ran rebar under the remaining concrete (7 inches on all sides). I poured alittle more then 3x3 1/2x1 of concrete. It's been like that for 4 years lifted over a 1000 times with no issues. I used the strongest concrete I could buy. In all honesty it wasn't that bad I had a friend help and only took a day. I had no experience in concrete.
