Fun fact if you didn’t already know. The saying “drove/rode hard, put away wet” long predates cars. The saying refers to horses who were worked hard into a sweat and then put away sweaty. This is a good way to cause all sorts of problems with horses because like an athlete, they need to walk around and cool and dry themselves off. Not doing so can cause hyperthermia and heat stroke on hot days, hypothermia on cold days, colic which is a life threatening series of conditions, and far more. Just wanted to share. Great video as always.
@@Redkit34 omg I know right? I work in IT and it’s crazy how many weird sayings are used. So many of my friends immigrated after college so it’s fun to try to figure out the original context. I have to Google a lot myself.
The 2.3 turbos get a lot of hate from lack of maintenance mostly, but I do agree with their down falls the timing chains suck and the oil control rings always clog like this one shown in the video but when maintained over regularly they are super fun cars in my opinion
155 horsepower in my 09 Mazda 3 at 185k and it still runs great considering it was abused for the 150k before I bought it. Could definitely get better Mileage though. In my opinion they are fine considering they are pretty reliable.@@loganamurray64
FYI the saying run hard and put up wet is from horseback days when someone would run a horse hard then just put it in the barn without cooling it down properly and not brushing out its coat, feeding it and watering it so I think the term is still relevant as it means neglected and not maintained properly.
@@CharlesVanNoland May I say yes you DO in some context Run a horse: canter ring, hot walker, etc. You also can use a different set of verbiage for when they are hooked up on a harness for ground “driving” and for a buggy. Also we use a phrase to be purposefully used in different contexts and some times alluding to another for a double ententes. Something completely novel to the viewers of this channel 🤔😍 valoutes in a water pump anyone
A family member of mine used to work for Mazda. The 2.3 MZR had oval bore syndrome…burned oil and eventually slung rods. In saying this, the MZR series were in my opinion great engines if serviced well!…Hello from NZ!
I love how much you hate this engine. I can't wait to get home and watch you literally and figuratively tear this thing apart. I only watch your videos cast onto the big screen.
I remember that oil filter on my old Mazda6. It was a joy when the drain bolt in the bottom of the housing wouldn't come out. I learned to live with getting covered in oil. I wasn't entirely sad when we traded it in.
John Lees - LOL! Same here. I thought it was just mine where the center drain bolt wouldn't come out. I still have my Mazda 3 with the non-turbo version of this engine. Just because of the cartridge filter, and stupid under car plastic "shield" (that used to be on my car) a simple oil change is something i hate doing.
I don't know why watching an engine tear down is so fascinating [Yes I do, I'm a gear-head], but I enjoy your videos! WE WANT PORSCHE 928 CONTENT! Or at least I do. I drove one for 19.5 years and worked on it myself, to include radiator changes, motor mounts, steering racks, complete intake removal and refresh. Great video!
@@barryaiello3127 That's really not true, beater 928's are around. Often they turn up on Craigslist. Word of warning: You can spend some serious coin on an old 928!
The biggest problem with chain stretch is it also damages the sprocket teeth. Specifically the tooth profile thins to more of a point due to the wider link spacing. Few people ever catch that, and it contributes to damaging the replacement chain.
I wait all week to watch your tear down videos! Love the journey you take on each one. I also love that you show your mistakes! Anyone who says they don't mess up is lying. Also, they are probably the critics...and I bet they have 5 wheel drive, a gamecube a game sphere and a game tetrahedron...as well as the typical "I've been doing this for xx years so I'm an expert." Pay them no mind and keep up the AWESOME WORK!!!!
I see so many guys struggle with fasteners on an engine stand, one easy solution is to rotate the engine 90° on the stand, you can then use your breaker bar vertically, pull up or push down, it will stop the stand from swiveling on the wheels.
Or if you have a stand with a square base rather than a T base, it makes it easy to stand on the base for dealing with those tight bolts. I also swapped out the casters for some braked ones from a hardware store.
This is great. Would love to see a video kind of like "everything wrong with the 2.3 mzr engine" to gather all the knowledge you've seen on those engines.
Eric you need to acquire a racing engine with a dry sump with multiple stages that way you can play it like a recorder, be who you really are.(and who we want you to be.) As for the differences between the timing chains and sprockets, just speculation on my part but I imagine the differences are a result of the different engines likely being assembled in different factories and consequently relying on some different suppliers for various parts. Assuming the LLY is soaking in penetrating oil, reinstalling the bellhousing adapter(assuming you still have it) on the block with a few bolts, and the flexplate(again assuming you still have it) on the crank with a few bolts, and using a strong m10 x 1.5 bolt in a bellhousing bolt hole as a fulcrum point,(the closer to the ring gear the better) a big pry bar in the flywheel teeth prying off of the bolt will allow you to imply far greater leverage on the crank then you could by trying to turn the crank with a breaker bar on the balancer bolt. The crank is also a more ideal tool for getting the rods and pistons(which I know are likely toast) to move without damaging them the way a hammer and punch or block of wood could.
This might be impossible... but id love to see some comparison teardowns. Cheap oil for the life of the engine vs synthetic. Or just even good maintenance vs mistreated. Either way youre going to go far keep it up 👌 mint
I agree i follow a guy called project farm he has done comparisons with small motors burning them up with regular oil and synthetic, the type of synthetic also makes a difference with lubricity for example
@@lutomson3496 im talking after 200kms. Would be interesting ti see a real world example of the difference here on youtube. I have personal experience with the difference or course, but not a full teardown like this
I've got 338.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am. LT1 ENGINE. Only used Castrol oil in it since new. 3000 mile oil changes. Runs and sounds like new. Even timing chain is original. Uses no oil between changes either.
Us Techs in the 80's and 90's made a lot of money doing timing belts and for a brief moment thought that gravy train of maintenance was over and then came GDI with carbon and super long crazily wrapped timing chains and said "hold my beer" Money is again good.
A couple of ideas for ya- 1) Pull a compression ring out and put it in the cylinder and measure the wear on the ring. It would have been interesting to compare the low compression cylinder vs. the others ring wear. 2) While they are getting harder to find and I'm sure are not a core part of your business, it would be fun to see you tear down a type 1 or type 4 aircooled VW engine from a bus, Vanagon or beetle. Lots of classic VW fans on RU-vid and you'll make your money back on the parts. Keep up the good work on these enjoyable videos!
I know nothing about cars apart from how they look, although i do know where to put the oil and water and how to check it. But i must say “ i love watching these vids and never miss one “, it’s so interesting seeing what’s inside lol . Sorry if this comment sounds silly but i’ve never seen inside an engine or one blown up before 👌👌
Love watching the older videos. Can see the start of your current teardown formats, origins of the ongoing jokes (lipstick and water pumps) and where your costar (blue) would have came in handy
I am not a mechanic by any means but I enjoy watching the pros like you take them apart. We live in amazing times but I am so glad my engine doesn't have a timing chain. Not with the history I've had with bicycles! "When" is the only question you'll ever ask when it comes to chains.
I really like all of your teardowns, but this comparison between the Ford and Mazda engines was particularly fascinating. I frequently take apart scrap electronics/machines for entertainment, or for my hobby projects but man I wish I could make a little money on some of the stuff I salvage like you do!
Please do a video describing the top ten and the worst ten engines that you know about from a design and/or reliability point of view. And a video about the top ten reasons engines show up in your hands. (Other than the number one through six reasons of never changing the oil.) What are your thoughts about the Plymouth Slant-Six engine?
I imagine he doesn't do much of anything with any of the old iron legends like that Slant Six, or my 4.9 I6, or a Chevy guy's 250/292. Or any of the old school iron V8s big and small alike. They're too skookum and too cheap to buy parts for. Never end up on his dissection table unless a viewer just straight up donates one for free. Eric's running a business selling useable parts from these things, after all, and if he tears an engine down to get $250-$350 worth of parts what sense does it make for him to buy one when he can tear another engine down and add another zero to the profit margin? I imagine he'd say the same things most people say about the Slant Six: Skookum, bit of a dog in factory trim particularly during smog years, but tons of modding potential. As a side note I would be beside myself if one of those legends of yesteryear ended up on his table. Would make an excellent comparison video, showing how overbuilt they are compared to modern engines, showing how certain things have changed over the years, that sorta stuff. A 350SBC and another blown LS would be perfect for a side by side teardown given the LS is the replacement for the venerable smallblock, but the general themes apply cross brands. I'd also absolutely love to see him tear something down that's truly ancient, like an 8BA flathead or a Fireball Straight 8. But again he's not gonna buy one of those engines if he can't turn a profit selling the parts and I doubt any viewers have one just lying around they'd be willing to donate/lend for a video.
@@TestECull Thanks for the comment. I think your right and I'm not sure he has much experience with the old school iron. ( I owned three Valiants back in the day. (The push button transmission wasn't the most stellar.)) I remember being told the only thing that wore out on the Slant Six was the plastic bevel gear on the distributor rotor shaft, but that was by design. The internal brass gear was much harder to replace than the rotor shaft.)
@@JayKayKay7 ye the Ford 300/4.9 ain't much different, only they didn't use a plastic gear on the dizzy either. Half million mile overhaul intervals are common and it's rare that one wears out before the vehicle around it does.
Love these videos. And when you started the video with "I know about this engine, the miles, where it came from.." I was thinking.."Yeah, but is it drained?" At around the 5:00 mark I get my answer.
I have an 07 MS3 and can confirm on the timing issue.. mine specifically were the guides but ended up changing all the components. Now to work on the injectors and excessive blowby 😅
Rollie stand hack: if you turn the engine 90 degrees (45 for a V8, of course) and put the breaker bar on the head bolt, parallel with the floor, then you can just use your weight to loosen the fastener without the engine stand trying to go anywhere.
Best engine fellow on the tubes, no discussion. Loving it, great work buddy, and it certainly has a zen like calming effect as I watch. Bye the way I drive a somewhat similar 14 Mazda 3 with the 2.0.
Loved the comparison between ford and mazda cams. Maybe in the future make a bigger one, between different brands, no need for the tear down, just kinda compare things.
I bought a 2.3 cx7 turbo made it half way home and lost power threw a code for ocv. Had a bad electrical issue everything on the emissions harness was fried Dude had the timing done for a "chain rattle" broke 2 wires to ocv and they touched Got it to run again found his rattle was actually the turbo. Replaced turbo ran fine drove all around, second trip made it 2 miles and began misfiring on #1 lost compression. 25 psi I hate these things with a passion at this point
Had a 2007 Speed6 and was a guinea pig for a lot of the original hopup parts from various MFGs. I put 40k on it with stock turbo before the turbo seals went bad. Upgraded to a GT3076R and ran it another 20k at 450 HP before deciding to build the motor. Ran it another 15k at 600HP before selling the car. Was a great car and if you knew what you were doing they were actually very strong cars. I even broke the transfer case and lost the oil during a trip and drove it about 400 miles that way. Only locked up after I parked it and it siezed up inside. If I could find another with low miles I'd buy it in a heartbeat and do it all over again.
FYI, the new, thicc silent 2.5 Duratec timing set fits the 2.3 MZR DISI Turbo. Upgraded mine as well, very happy. Just make sure to get the whole set, chains, sprockets, actuator, tensioners, guides, etc...
I like Watching your teardown Videos showing why the engine failed (most time coming faulty connection between drivers seat and steering wheel.) I do have something for you to try when using a breaker bar or ratchet breaking bolts loose when possible stand on the engine stand. it is also very useful when setting torque (head bolts, main and rod caps).
ha - I had a NA 2.3 MZR with the stupid plastic cartridge style filter housing. I can truthfully say I never broke it after doing many, many oil changes on it and it still runs fine for the new owner.
I had a 09 mazdaspeed 3, with no engine issues since I bought it new. Sold it last year with 144k on it. I did regular 5k mile oil changes. Original turbo, timing chain, everything.
I have an 08 with 120k on it with original everything. It mostly sits in the garage and I thought about selling it because that's all it does anymore. How much did you get out of your 09?
Great video, however don't want to nit-pick, but you kept saying that timing chain had stretched. This is not true. Timing chains wear, this is due to the links on the chain wearing and increasing play. So over time the links develop more and more free play thus increasing the effective length of the chain, so technically they wear.
i have a speed 3, e85 with a good tune, do all the proper maintenance have 140k miles on it, never had issue. also they make great power for how cheap you can get them for. Overspeed motorsports sells 0 mile engines for under 5k.
245k on my 06 fusion with the 2.3 and going strong, i beat on it quite a bit and it takes it, whoever had it before me didnt keep up with maintenance so I'm slowly trying to clean it up
if youre not saving the dipstick tubes...just take an old pair of visegrips and weld on a threaded rod with a weight to make a small slide hammer type tool for yanking them out
@13:40 The intake manifold on this engine from factory had issues with flow consistency into cylinder 3. So I'd assume it ran rich countless times and covered the injector/seal with half burnt fuel.
You make great content! I love your humour, tone and sound. Also, as the owner of a high boost 2.3 DISI MZR (Axela) I would love to see your comparison of my engine and the 2.3 EcoBoost. I think the cranks might be identical.
Enjoy your videos dude - teardowns are interesting because trying to understand what went wrong is like trying to solve a mystery. +1 on the Porsche 928 content, we need an update! Twin remote turbo 928 is about as rare a car as you will find.
I had a 07 mazdaspeed3, don't care for the oil filter, it just takes maybe 15 minutes longer to change compared to a spin on It's super common dumb-o's, myself included get a Cobb accessport and run a map off of the website, run super rich and break something, what a fun car
That engine saw some long OCIs. The dark caramel to black coating on the internals says it all. Well guess what happens to cam chain run in dirty oil? The link pins wear and that creates a stretched chain, and the cam chain tensioner after awhile can't compensate, so the valve timing starts creeping, and pretty soon you can experience a lean running engine, as evidenced by the white electrodes on the spark plugs.
Please tear down a Fiat/Chrysler engine with MultiAir! I just did a timing belt / valve cover gasket / water pump job on one a couple weeks ago, and that MultiAir system is strange! I'm pretty sure I know how it works, and I can't believe it does, but she needed her Fiat 500L back ( 1.4L MultiAir Turbo) working!
I kind of miss the carnage but it's nice that you get a decent engine to profit from. I had not heard that Mazda's were rust prone but I have lived my life in AZ and TX so no salted roads or significant snow.
Love cartridge filters. You can inspect the old one without struggling to cut it open and getting oil everywhere. It's how I knew to get rid of my MS3 when I started finding aluminum pieces from the timing chain making contact.
That stupid crankcase vent hose split twice in my wife’s 6. It’s a massive pita to replace; ended up running braided hose to a catch can after the second time.
