New pads and rotors on the Mazda CX-5. Took about 45min only needed 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, something to compress the caliper, jack and jack stand. Quick trip to bed the pads in after.
It's ridiculous to think you can ruin your pads or rotors by touching them with your hands, or by getting a little grease on them. Does it hurt to keep them clean? Of course not. That said, these things sit beneath the car, and are exposed to far worse contaminants on a regular basis. I've been doing my own brakes for over 40 years. I can assure you, a few fingerprints or a little leftover grease isn't going to hurt anything. Also, I've found that for cars like these, a c clamp works just fine to reduce the caliper piston. None of this is meant as a criticism! Good video!
Good video, but when I replace discs on any car I always remove the sliding pins on the calliper then clean off the old grease and apply new grease. This stops wear on one side of the brakes. Also new discs have a protective coating to prevent rust, so they need a wipe with brake cleaning fluid before fitting
Thanks, I'm not a mechanic but do really love working on my own stuff. Always learning. I post this stuff hoping others will want to get there hands dirty. Working on cars is a lot of trial and error and problem solving but very rewarding.
Even better than the helpful directions was watching how you laid the pad assembly out on a table and removed the parts to either side so that there is no confusion about what goes where.
Recommend cleaning the slots where the lube goes, so the dirt build does not build up behind and compress the clips, making the pads bind, causing the smoke to be let out of the pads.
Absolutely right Shane, I totally forgot to hit them with the hi-temp grease. Rookie mistake on my part. I'm not a pro, just an enthusiast who counts on tips like yours to help anyone with some basic tools work on their own stuff. Cheers!
Alot of times you don't want to replace the hardware because stock uses stainless steel where cheap sets don't. Your better off wire brushing the ones you have but it depends on if there stainless or not
My Akebono Pads wore out pretty quickly because the Mechanic used Chassis grease in the Sliding pins instead of Hi temp grease and it jammed the pads against the rotor disc 😢. Anyone had this issue of wrong grease?
I didn't see him block the tires, to keep it from rolling. Also, a hard jack stand under the car in safest. Hang the removed caliper from a coat hanger wire hook. If it falls off that thing it hanging from now, you can break or damage the rubber brake line, and then yur screwed. If the line is damaged, and you don't see it, you'll know it, after you crash into the back of that brand new Mercedes, cause your brake fluid leaked out. I don't think braking hard after new pads are installed is good, because the heat build up can wreck the resins in the pads. Go easy on the brakes for a 100 miles, at least.
Why did you replaced the rotors? Where they to thin? Or does the steeringwheel shake when braking? Even the pad don’t look worn! I see people replace their pads because they hit a just a mileage instead of looking if the pads are really worn. My Mitsubishi Lancer (2007) has the stock rotors (back and front) and stock brakepads on the front. 310.000 km and the front brakend at at 40% now (never change them, just cleaning). It’s not the mileage it’s how you drive. I drive long distance.
That's where I'm bad. I drive everything like I stole it and I'll even burn up performance brakes and rotors within the expected life span. If I actually leave on time I don't drive as aggressive but as soon as I encounter some 60+ jackass doing 10-30kmh under the limit I have to start driving fast again to make up time.
Ya know, my Dad always did it, claimed it helped hold it all together on reassembly. Don't know if its true but I guess these are the things we pick up and just keep doing. Neither one of us are mechanics but I cant remember having a brake failure either:)
I change out the rotors rather than getting them turned because they are cheap. I dont have a machine shop close by. My old machine shop used to charge $30 per rotor. There were less than $50 a peice at the time. If you dont change or machine the rotors you can get a pulsing from the brakes.
Bosch for the rotors. I have good luck with Bosch quality and the price is usually very reasonable. Brake Best Pads have been my favorite for the past two years. Seem to last long and are quiet. They fit really well too. I have used them on my last 5 brake jobs, three of my vehicles. They don't come with brake pad backing lube so be sure to buy that as well.
@@likeathinkpad I always do both just because its about the same cost as getting them machined anymore. Rotors always need to be turned or replaced or warp city, how many miles?
@@MissedAGear Mine is 50k miles. Yeah, I agree with you. I replaced both of the front rotors. I also replaced the new brake pads with Akebono AB1623. it is better just replaced instead of machine the rotor nowadays.
