Notting worse putting all that hard work into the car and thats happening. Strange the faults codes dident come up when you drove it. I hope its something simple 🙏 by the way love the way you showed all of the step by steps when doing the job another brilliant video cant wait for part 3
Peter a brilliant video as always and so insightful. These Mazdas are a law unto their own - I'm flittering out the DPF for the 2nd time to get professionally flushed as I have a persistent ash and soot accumulation fault, tried flushing with Wynns off car DPF cleaner and used another on car spray DPF cleaner but alas still showing faults, so I know exactly the 'gutted' feeling when you think 'yep! - this is it!' but you know what they say...what doesn't kill us can only make us stronger...onto Part 3 ... I know you'll crack it 😀
Very impressed with how you pulled that camshaft out proper old school your a great mechanic Peter. We’ve all been there 100% certain we had a fix and the faulty parts clear for all to see only for the job to come back a lousy feeling indeed but you will get to the bottom of it and the customer will be happy looking forward to part 3👍
The camshaft was clearly worn out and needed replacement so it was the logical thing to do. I'm guessing in this case you were probably dealing with a combination of multiple faulty sensors. I know it feels gut-wrenching but you did a stellar job. Thanks for the vid.
That tool you made worked really well, nice time saving tip. Looking forward to part 3, you are obviously really fair that you won't be charging any more.
It is nearly too easy to not use Matt. It probably saves a days labour 🤔 And when he rang me and said that the issue wasn’t resolved I felt crap, I thought I had it fixed.I believe I have it resolved now just doing a few thousand kms to prove 😂😂😂
It does make sence because I am engineer but the remedy is what I am looking for. It is happening random and has noting to do with enything. It just gives alarm that stays in the memory and sometimes goes out so fast that I can just get glipse of it. I have been in service and they have no clue. Once you find out for sure I will be there to see the Video. Thanks and keep up the good work Merry Christmas!
It's a pain in the arse when this sorta of thing happens but all we can do is follow the clues and go with what seems logical. People think you put a diagnostic reader on the car and it gives you a detailed answer. In reality, it only gives you a direction to look in and even then it's often guessing game. I feel for you and the customer with this one but you're being more than fair and can only do your best. I've had similar issues, I recall blaming an ECU and sent it away to be fixed, came back as no fault found and £360 later, I discovered that it was a bad wire within the loom. Boy did I feel like a twat on that job but I fessed up and took it on the chin. Good luck with this one and I look forward to the follow up video.
You are right Chris, It ain’t as easy as people that are not in the trade think but this is what we do and must just keep on going 😬 I believe I have it sorted now and no faults after over 100 kms. I’ll put up part 3 shortly 🤞🙏👍
Hey again sir, hope you've been well. Was just watching out of curiosity this time :) At 32:57, the reason I think your DPF pressure is higher and mass airflow is higher, is most likely because DPF regeneration probably started. By the way since I cleaned my EGR system, if you remember, I've driven total 15k miles. Also just couple of weeks ago, I drove to Hungary from UK and back, total did 4k miles. Car ran really well, on the way to Hungary I drove slowly, around 60mph, got 60mpg over 1350 miles. On the way back pushed 100mph in Germany for long stretches, in UK 80mph, no issued, but only got 45mpg, still not bad I guess. I had Forscan plugged in during the drive. In Germany, Oil temps got to 115c and Coolant to 105c. Was a hot day and quite mountainous driving. But car never complained. No error codes as such either, I had done a fresh oil change before going to Europe. But yeah anyways, due to the back roads in Austria and shitty roads in Hungary, my Stabilizer links are knackered, so need to change them. car is at total 145k Miles, and they were original parts, so they've done well. Anyways, have a good one and catch you in another video :D
Hi Peter. Thanks to you I've now replaced the camshaft,4 rockers & 8 lifters,cleaned the ports & intake. runs a lot better & all the codes have gone. brilliant thanks for your input. The only thing that puzzles me now is that on tickover I get an unburnt fuel smell so I plugged my scanner in & the fuel injection timing was showing 208.305 degrees which seems a bit low. your input on this would be greatly appreciated
Honestly Andy, I haven’t ever needed to pay too much attention to those pids. So couldn’t advise, but once your timing marks are right and not faults are coming back after an extended drive cycle I wouldn’t pay too much attention to the smell at this point 🤔🤔
Geleraly I do not have mayor issues. Now and then had no tootle response when high speed traveling. You could not feel until you floor it . Only way I could notice was fuel consumption will stay low and call will struggle to pull. As i can see mayor problem was EGR valves actually one closeer to EGR cooler.
I have seen all of your videos and know all about you have been talking for some time. Thing is it is not always. I happens now and then. Hard to pinpoint. Mazda do not read any faults . All Simms perfect but I know it is not
@@am2am2am2am if intake manifold, exhaust camshaft / rockers / hydraulic follower’s, exhaust pressure sensor / pipe are done correctly then the only thing is left is air meter & egr relearn, only possible with a relatively good scantool 🤞🤞🤞
Loves the videos mate thank fellow mechanic from dublin 😂 . I have this job a head of me . Rattling noise coming from top end would that be from the rocker arms
The rocker come with the camshaft kit & buy a set of 8 rockers just incase they are needed. No matter what happens it is a good maintenance job to be carried out. Watch the exhaust valves though, they still after the lack of movement from the camshaft wearing 😉👍👍 I’m glad you enjoy my videos & let me know if you need anymore information mate 👍👍
Hi Peter, great video as usual, I have a mazda 3 2.2 skyactive, it all of a sudden developed a misfire approximately every 200km with a unburnt diesel smoke, if I rev it to about 4000 rpm it clears until about another 200km there is no code's showing, we've changed the four injectors to no avail. I'm thinking Maybe worn camshaft?
Hi Joe, it could be the exhaust camshaft but would you know when the intake manifold & port were cleaned?? They block very often restricting air flow & could cause a misfire 🤔🤔
Peter wondering if you can help a desperate man here!!! My wife's Mazda CX5 2.2 Sky Activ gives the P0101 fault but ONLY when you lift off the throttle around 2000rpm. So far I have tried replacing the MAF & MAP sensors, de-coking the inlet manifold and ports, replaced the vacuum pump, reset the PCM and everything else, upgraded the Exhaust pressure sensor and DPF sensor, unblocked the port to the exhaust sensor as well (it was totally blocked)...but none of these has helped at all. Have you any ideas please? Spent so much time and money and it's killing me 🙈 Thanks so much!
I have been in the same position, only I had also changed the exhaust camshaft too. I ended up having to remove the rocker cover & injectors again & then I found around 4 of the hydraulic tappets underneath the exhaust camshaft after going spongy 😬 Once I had replaced them, problem gone . Have you inspected the camshaft ???
Hi Peter. Thanks for the reply! I haven't inspected the camshaft as yet, no. Maybe that is the next area to focus. I have noticed I'm getting some strange live readings for kPa (only ever operates between 9-20kPa, and 10kPa with engine off??) and boost pressure (always between -9psi & -minus 13psi) - that's why I replaced MAP sensor but still got the same readings. Have you ever encountered this, and do you think could be related to the P0101?
@@sammachin9585 those boost pressure readings are strange 🤔🤔 If you are seeing minus numbers you can really on have around 3 causes 1. Sensor reading incorrectly 2. A wiring fault 3. An actual vacuum in the intake manifold when running caused by an air restriction And the final variable, is the scantool giving you the correct information. Let me know what your tests find 👍👍
@Kennedy’s garage you were correct....the scantool was not interpreting those particular readings correctly for some reason. Connected some better software and now the kPa and boost readings seem ok. Car only throws the fault on overrun....I am trying to figure out what happens in the engine on overrun that doesn't happen any other time, because that's the only time the fault occurs!!!
@@sammachin9585 egr’s open more & throttle closes. You are sure the exhaust pressure sensor (with 1 pipe to the right hand side ) pipe isn’t blocked?? It is most common to happen on overrun & not when under load. Also unfortunately you still cannot rule out the camshaft & hydraulic tappets 😬
Yes, it is worth doing an air flow meter relearn and egr valve initialisation. I actually have a video on these resets in my library and will schedule it for release this weekend 😉👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for your reply! Alao, I think I've done something bad. I did not keep an order of the lifters neither the lush adjusters, do you think that would be an issue once fitted back in? Much appreciated!
@@paultoceb1896 all the camshaft rockers are the same except for the 4 bigger exhaust ones. Also the hydraulic tappets are the same too but the exhaust camshaft ones are more common to failure. But hopefully it doesn’t effect you 🤞🤞🤞
Hi Peter. In your video you have mentioned car giving fault for city auto braking system. Now end then I get same warning light on starting the car and then is gone . What is it indicatin that can be connected to the engine?By the way great Video
Hi, most people have only inexpensive EOBD code readers which only read engine management faults. But if you can scan the other modules (SCBS & ABS etc.) they always have ‘invaded data received from ECM’ . SCBS & ABS systems need good engine management information inorder to work correctly, bad engine information creates an issue for them to work. Does that make sense??
Hi Peter, love your videos and logical approach to fault finding. Did you have to do any resets after the cam shaft change? I changed mine, drove about 40km and then got the fault code "P1336 crankshaft / camshaft range performance" which implies that the cam chain is worn, but I checked with "Forscan" & proved the cam chain is not worn. Any ideas?
I didn’t need to do any resets but there is a timing chain replacement procedure that can be performed & you should also do an injector calibration/relearn too. Do these and see how you get on 😉
FAI do an aftermarket camshaft, but the rockers can only be gotten OE. So it can be nicer to have the original mazda camshaft kit that they do. And I’m glad you enjoy some of my content, thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏
@kennedysgarage3281 mine has been great but I've dinged her up, it's been car park bumped all over and keyed (Swansea's mega). So she's stopping with me 'til the end. Starting to white smoke on boost and seems rich af. I'll dig through your vids before opening her up for sure.
Hi i had to watch the last bit a few times as English is not first language, Did i understand right after replacing the cam problem didn't fix? This whole job was to fix P0101? SCBS error? Please reply me back when u can, im really interested in watching your videos and would like to know a bit more about it, Thanks
Hi Nasir, in SCBS system I have a fault for, invalid data received from engine management. Which I have found that once I repair the engine management problem, the fault for invalid data received does not return in scbs system. So P0101 is what I’m trying to fix & failed on this attempt even though the camshaft was badly worn. Does this help??
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for the reply, im not a mechanic have Mazda CX-5 2.2 skyactiv-d which is same setup in mazda 6 and 3, I have spent a lot of time on forums RU-vid Facebook groups for P0101, I would say test the Air/Fuel ratio sensor which is after the CAT, In my case O2 readings don't seems normal and i have read few people got the problem fixed by replacing A/F ratio sensor, even though there was no fault code for A/F sensor on the dash , Hope this may help if you didn't try that already :D
I've built a 2.2 and those standard camshafts never last, a custom made camshaft has to be made and redesigned fully or your constantly gonna be replacing it.
That custom made camshaft sounds hard to get 🤔 So I’d say most people will use the standard one & once it does 100k like the original one I’d say most people will be happy with that. But handy info 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 loving your video's especially as i have a Mazda 6 2.2 diesel. Isn't the SCBS error a forward camera safety feature and nothing to do with the engine,
@@Ian-kw3iz yes Ian, smart city braking system is as you said using cameras in the windscreen as a safety feature, but like most systems on cars it communicates with the engine management system & wants the engine management system to be working correctly in order for it (scbs) to be able to operate correctly. And I have found on numerous occasions that when I repair the engine management I fix my fault in the scbs system, invalid data received from engine management. If that makes sense 🤔🤔
And just like that.... Voilà la camshaft is born. I would say that due to the high milage that many other factors like a dirty / tired maf sensor.. worn boost pressure sensor or even worn chain could be all contributing to the returning fault. Guess you have to set up under the bonnet data logging connections to various sensors and try capture the fault on a road test.
Sorted now Chris & non of the above caused my problem, cars 🤔🤔 It’s hard to make sense of them at times. I’ll have the repair uploaded over the weekend 🙏👍
I have a 2014 mazda 6 sport 2.5 with p0101 code an the car is choking bad…i have cleaned the maf sensor and replaced it but still same issue an i cleaned the throttle body and map sensor but still same issue. Do you have any idea whats going on?
The air flow meter very rarely fails on these. P0101 is air flow outside of desired parameters. So you most likely have an air restriction problem. Possibly the intake manifold and ports restricted or exhaust camshaft worn as in this video. Hopefully this helps you out 🤞🤞
I normally use a socket and extension on the crank pulley bolt inside the right hand front wheel. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V8Gct8gandg.htmlsi=F-auC9Y0AAUjNcYG This is what happens if a valve sticks, but it doesn’t happen too often
Lovely peter Thank you alot for your favour but it was one teeth off the timing and now spinning but i crank the car but struggles to start .it started a short while with a clicking noise and engine stopped and now refusing to start😂😂 Can you give some advice of the possible cause please
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter this is how the engine sound is possibly hdraulic lashb tappets? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ydWAQgAc1dI.html
hi peter i should also say that i have cleaned out the lah tappets under the lifters which i could compress them abit so not rock solid as they should can it be the cause of the noisy engine? i attach the actual video of my ngine please give you opinion of possible cause,iappreciate it alot cheers ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ydWAQgAc1dI.html
@@farhadelmira1023 if your timing is correct now just keep cranking. There can be very little compression just after fitting it first. The valves will most likely free out after 5 or 6 cycles of the start button, this free’s out the valves and dissipates any air in the fuel lines 🤞🤞
Nope not putting me on the spot at all. I used 2 big spanner’s & guessed 🙂 You are correct I hadn’t enough room to fit in my torque ratchets. But well spotted 😂😂
Would have done the same myself comes a time when u have to compromise. By the way enjoy your videos your not afraid to share not some of these mechanic who think they are special and sworn to secrecy
@@MrCountryhead I find that this is a hard trade and if we all stick together and share our knowledge we make it that little bit easier & I’m glad you like some of my videos. Thank you 🙏 🙏
Unfortunately no I haven’t had a broken timing chain yet, so I’m not sure about the valves. But I do know that the camshaft lobes are part of the shaft casting & cannot spin. I hope this helps 🤔👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for it definitely helps. I've got one here with a snapped chain and I'll find out soon enough after I start stripping. Another question I have. What is the purpose of those 4 exhaust rockers compared to the other ordinary ones. What do they do.
@@allynv they are just another idea to make cars cleaner & greener 🤔🤔 The valve timing can be more finely adjusted for lower emissions output & better fuel economy. And pull of the rocker cover & get each cylinder to top dead center or on power stroke & blow air into the cylinder through injector hole to check valve seats before disassembly. It might save removing the head 👍
I did & they are not sticking, but I haven’t ever seen them to stick on the Skyactive. Have you encountered this ?? It might be something for others to watch out for 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi, yeah every single one I see comes in to our shop with 4 tight exhaust valves, if you tap them with wooden hammer handle they stay down and the piston pushes them back closed. They get carbon up the guides that make them go tight and this wrecks the camshaft. Some are tighter than others
hi peter i follwed your video step by step changing the exhaust camshaft it spins half way and seems blocked so how should i proceed now,? my car is automatic i should say
You are in deep so 😬😬 Did you remove the timing chain or make up a little locking tool like mine ?? 2 possible causes, 1 timing is out 2 one of the exhaust valves are seized and won’t depress when the engine is turning
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi there I seured the timing chain with 3 rie zeeps at three points so that it doesnot come out of timing but when installing the camshaft and the lifters ,,it spins not freely so timing should not be out as the sprocket and chain were sec ured what do proceed now if there is something wrong with one of the valves?
@@farhadelmira1023 I wonder if you removed the injectors again, then see if the engine turns. If not then you most likely have to send a camera down the injector holes for a look to see what is happening. You hardly clean the intake manifold at the same time??
It is alright as a generic every day scan tool, easy to use & quite fast. It is priced ok €2500 or €3000. Updates are around €900 per year. Thanks for watching Myles 😉👍
The most common cause of it is the intake manifold & ports being blocked with carbon. If I was you it would be removed to take a look due to it being such a problem with the 2.2 Skyactive 😉
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw it could be a dirty air flow sensor. Did you check the Dpf pressure?? If the engine cannot breathe out air it cannot take it in 🧐 After that I would check the exhaust camshaft & rockers 😬😬
