I turboed my Mazda 3 hatchback with the 2.3 na engine and running 8lbs boost with no time currently I see you actually got another block so I'll just build my second block and swap engines when fully built internals, I've been watching your videos alot lately as I was installing the turbo on my car after the engine is built in going to add the meth then go for a bigger turbo
Yeah not in the 2.3 i have an upgraded hatch speed3 even with a timing chain its still far too weak to handle that much turbo even 8 seems far out. 10? No way it wont hold and thats too big a risk on those 2.3 Ford engines. Okay fine it holds 10 lbs and ratios are all solid for awhile but then transmission could act up too much forced induction is just way too stressful and you WILL blow up the motor. WWSKD? (What Would Scotty Kilmer Do) Not this i can assure you 100% and wouldnt advise anyone.
Just thought I'd point out there probably wasn't much wrong except the stock internals only hold around 370hp at the wheels "safely". Looking forward to following your build!
This definitely wasn't a result of the minor timing increases they did, the rods were probably stressed and gonna let go anyways. 12.5deg at redline is basically 93 octane levels of timing, nevermind the in-tank methanol.
Buggery, that sucks. I feel yer pain, I've been there 3 times, blown engines suck (not my 2008 Mazdaspeed3 yet). Never on a dyno either, always far from home!!! Would be interesting to see what went wrong as it seemed to be a hauntingly similar situation like Low Speed Pre-Ignition. Lex did a good write up about it on the forum. I used to work with him many years ago (before Stratified Automotive Controls) and can't even begin tell you how super detailed he is with the work he does. I remember him bringing in a bent rod (piston still attached) to work back in 2009 as he was trying to figure out what was going on with these engines. I used to do engine teardown/machining/building and the part he brought in was quite mysterious as it didn't have any of the witness marks associated with known failure analysis, anyways, I could see that he couldn't let this slide by. So maybe a chat with him about the tune could shed some light? Oh, I also feel your pain on the cost as I live near Vancouver, we Canadians pay 30-40% more for this hobby as the US has all the good stuff. Good luck to you.
Damn this really sucks! I've been following your channel for a long time now watching and learning from your builds for when I finally do my MS3. How many miles were on your stock block at this time? You were making great power and it was nice seeing the runs back to back with the slight changes you made. Hopefully you get her back on the road soon with that built engine.
It had 154,000 kms (96,000 miles). Thanks man. We had about 10-15 minutes in between runs, but only 5 minutes between the 400 hp run, and the verification run when it blew. Can't wait to get built !
400whp is surprisingly safe to run if you tune it right, i know people that daily 400whp stock motor cars, even one who’s managed to make 500whp on an unopened engine last quite a while
No one noticed earlier the black smoke from the exhuast. Clear signs something is wrong. Just my mechanical experience. But you live and learn. You start modding and eventually this is the end result.
You can tell when the car was going into Boost the motor just took a Shit ... no fucks given ... you would think at high RPM it will blow at that moment but “GOING into boost” damn
Any update buddy? I feel bad for you. Don't know what i would do if that happen to my speed3. hope to see that speed3 up and running soon. i like all your videos, keep on the good job !
Thanks a lot man! Right now the spare engine has been torn down and is awaiting it's built destiny at the machine shop. Tbh I'm glad it happened here rather than on the street.
it never fun when it happen but like you said better on the dyno then in the middle of downtown traffic or on the highway. Glad to hear that the engine is at the shop will be waiting for more videos.
I sorry to see you blew the motor now. It’s time to do some reach and build a beast of a motor. I hope nothing but the best for your future motor build
Oh no...:( Well, too many consecutive runs. I'm pretty sure that what happened is the classic phenomenon of piston rings butting and piston jamming against the cylinder wall. Happened to one of my friends I was tuning for. In his case it was #1 but it's really a matter of which cylinder has the smallest ring end gap for the heat already in the piston/cylinder. The good news is that with a built engine and the same mods you have now ( +WMI, never leave WMI out of the game) you can shoot for 600 (even though on a street used MS3 the practically usable limit is about 500bhp and 500-520lb*ft). P.S.: if you were spraying (WMI) this wouldn't have happened.
It felt those tires on the car and commited suicide. Good luck with the build and send me a DM if you want a hand pulling the motor or putting it back in. I've done it multiple times
Another option you could go is a drop in ready long block from corksport or speed performance. I would go for stage 2 which supports 700++hp Just slap all your parts and your good to go
Wannabe Tuners it’s not cheap to build a motor but it’s not easy either that’s why you gotta go to the right ppl who have been doing it for long time and who knows these cars Because you don’t want to have a built motor that wasn’t done right I’ve seen it happen
@@raquielcross5757 I know a reputable engine builder in the area called Competition Automotive. They've been around for over 40 years. I'll probably get an estimate from them first and go from there ;)
Just watching this, that’s sucks. These engines are hit and miss when pushing the limits. Mine made 520whp before it let go on stock rods and pistons. Bows the time to build so you can go further safely
I noticed you guys were throwing more timing at it instead of boost. Is there a reason why? I know most tuners prefer to add boost vs timing as timing creates more heat which of course cyl 3 is always producing more than any other. That’s what let go on mine
@@TheOriginalPancakeHou5e Yeah man it should be good when she's built and ready for action. When I tune I always dial in my boost and fuel curve first, and increase timing last. It's pretty much a balancing act between timing and boost, and too much of either will put more stress on the engine in general. I didn't want to run too much boost as I didn't want to cause inefficiency in the engines ability to breathe. I feel it runs better at 22 psi instead of 24 psi with these upgraded manifolds. We hear of people pushing big power on stock blocks, but that does not come without risk. I'd consider someone making 520 whp on a stock bottom end for a while quite lucky lol
When tuning you want to start a pull anywhere from 2500-3000 rpm to dial in as much of the usable powerband as possible. In the early days it wasn't recommended to floor it below 3000 rpm in 6th gear due to more load on the engine for a longer period of time. Nowadays the do's and dont's have been figured out, and the ability to tune the ecu to limit torque output below 3000 rpm has greatly helped to reduce engine failures. That being said, running a safe tune, with quality fuel is the most important thing. Personally whenever I am in 6th gear, I never floor it below 3k rpm ;)
Damn after like the 4th time i was like shit that engine taking some abuse! Is that normally how a Dyno works?? i would think the shop has to have some responsibility here no? sorry this happened dude, i love the vids you guys did for the mk5.
Also when you get tuned by a shop most times they make you sign a waiver. Meaning if they suck at tuning and blow your car up they arent held accountable. Its just to cover their ass.
This was a hard watch, knowing it was going to blow. I do think though that meth mix in the fuel tank is a very bad idea. And very unpredictable. And I think this is why you ha e a massive knock event, and blow a rod out the side. Fit a meth kit buddy. Much safer. I run 436bhp on stock block with a devilsown progressive meth kit. So my boost air temps are kept in check. I run 99ron (or octain as you lot call it) with meth kicking in at 15psi, and has full spray at 20psi. Hope this helps for the future build buddy.
Ugh so sad. Hurts i have the 04 speed3 1st gen upgraded and would still have my heart sink seeing that. Yeah way too much stress on the engine. Stock engine cant handle that much piston and connecting rod or even just getting a small nut dislodging inside the engine. Definitely will need love and care. - ASE Firestone mechanic.
How long did she last after the timing chain was done I’ve been fallowing your Chanel I’ve got an 06 ms6 I just did timing chain motor mounts cork sport fuel line wheel bearing bov optima battery I take and access port I’m aiming for reliability over power tho god I hope that she lasts i hope u build a new motor would love details on where to get one just Incase
Oh What!?!?at only 350 torque?? I think maybe the car did too many runs in a row and needed to cool off before other triles..I m so sorry for you man that's a bummer now another load of money to rebuild it, atleast after that u d know you can easily pass 500 ponnies
@@cliffordhaines6495 About 10-15 minutes in between runs. But only about 5 minutes between the 400 whp run and the vented block run lol. Definitely should have let it cool longer in between, but it goes to show that the block was ready to pop
Damn all good hope you find a good deal on a block and do some diy on porting the heads and 80lb springs. If you build it yourself it's very cheap I have a thread on mso but i did before mine blew so price may vary a bit block+machine shop
Is the cx7 engine the exact same engine in our cars ? Btw Sorry to here what happen bro , your speed 3 was one of my favorite out there . I know you’ll come back stronger and faster lol!!!
I’ve had bolt installed on the past on my speed3 and it was fun but now I have my speed6 I’m going the different route spend the money on a built long block that supports the hp I need
Sucks brother... mine just cracked a ringland. Didnt explode like yours... judging by yours you will have to find a decent long block and rebuild it. Prob hit the valvtrain when it went boom boom.
@@WannabeTuners mine is off at overspeed motorsports having the bottom end built. CNC ported head and valve springs done. Cant wait to see the upcoming content on yours!
Howmuch was it at the crank I only as cause a buddy of mine just brought one completely stock an broke his cv doing launches his butt dyno he told me was about 400nat the wheel but tis completely stock one cat has been removed an that's with a busted cv so I'm fallen it be from my buddy that is , be interesting to find out as his gauge only once read 18 but digital outputs from the obd2 onto my phone was only like 12-14ish psi would drop off above 6500rpm so it's fair to say tis was only about 250ish right? I recorded all of it on my phone an it had funky timing advancing never below 6.5 positive advance on the timing but it would spike up an down rapidly lol an he said he only uses half throttle but I was with him that sh3t was foot flat befor quarter throttle lmfao this just proves it man
If he's completely stock he won't be making more than 240 whp, but then again, numbers can vary. The only way to really know what his car is putting down at the wheels is to take the car to a dyno, and even then, all dyno's read differently
How many kms were on your car when you installed the bnr s4? Do you think your engine would have lived longer if you stayed around 350-370 hp range along with torque? I’m about to install a bnr s4 on mine as well but I’m a paranoid fuck.
The car had about 120,000 kms on it when we installed the BNR S4. I had been tuning the car since then using virtual dyno to estimate power. I found that virtual dyno read lower than the actual dyno that we went to, so if we go off of actual dyno numbers in comparison to VD numbers, up until it blew up on the dyno at 160,000 kms, the car was probably making anywhere from 350-400 whp depending on what tune I was running and how cold it was outside. Some theories I have that caused the engine to blow are that we were doing too many back to back pulls, the wot box acting as an ignition cut rev limiter (rather than the ECU's fuel injector cut) may have stressed the rods, or it was just it's time to blow. It's hard to say when these stock engines will let go, but the best thing to do is run an alcohol mix to prevent detonation, and run a safe consistent tune (not to say I wasn't lol)
That sucks. My accord blew up on a dyno too. The price to pay when u wanna go fast. I learned that its not a good idea to wanna make your daily a race car. Goodluck with whatever you decide to do.
Not the results you want to see when you’ve spend your money 💰 on quality parts to achieve that satisfaction but keep your head up it could have been worse just means you gotta build your motor take your time with it do it right And do it right the first time so that won’t happen again
Get one of those corksport built crate engines, they already have everything done for you for 500 plus, I have the same car with the same color so this was hard to watch
The timing was really conservative, realistically most speeds can run another 5-6degrees of timing on an ethanol mixture before getting close to the knock threshold.
Torque is what killed your block ... You guys should have called it a day after hitting 350wtq numbers ... You can't push these stock blocks on higher torque or this will happen ... And if this dyno-jet wasn't calibrated correctly and read lower , you were playing with fire without even knowing it
love them gen1. i have one also but i keep on getting misfire, rough idle and constantly dealing with crankshaft sensor. i replaced it but a week later it gives me the code again. any advice brother?
Try swapping coil packs to see if the misfire transfers to another cylinder. Also check crank sensor connections and related wiring for damage or shorts.
@@WannabeTuners the dealer swapped the motor with another replacemt and the fixed all the problems but i keep getting the same symptoms. i changed the coil packs so im thinking its the wires. i replace the maf sensor already also and spark plugs. 113k miles 😭
Y i k e s. With how everything has gone with my car I predict mine will blow the next time I drive it every single day. Not a fun way to own a car. It's known across the forums 400whp is the absolute max for stock internals, why keep pushing, just sheer curiosity?
Well the first pull we did made 378 whp. That same map made 340 whp in virtual dyno on the street with CF 1.01, so since I've been tuning my car on the street, it's possible that it's been making more power than I thought. The reason I kept going with it was because I've ran more ignition timing in the past when tuning on the street, but never this much boost. Usually 22 psi with 11 degrees at 6k rpm. So either it's a coincidence that it blew on the dyno and not the street, or that little bit more boost was a little too much, or hitting the rev limiter with back to back runs stressed the components beyond what they could handle. Tbh I'm happy it happened on the dyno and not the street! This forces me to build, and the last thing I want to do is sell the car!
@@WannabeTuners Yeah fair enough! Was probably a lot of things building up to the boom. Sure are lucky it happened there. Just curious but how much oil seeped into the dyno lol
@@ivanborruel Well the turbo in the cx7 is slightly smaller, so you'd want to swap over the turbo from the speed 3. You'll also need to swap over the flywheel and clutch onto the cx7 engine by removing the flex plate and install a pilot bearing into the crankshaft.
@@spillybuilt7491 That's what is recommend, but for tuning purposes most if not all tuners will start a dyno pull around 2500 rpm in order to tune that area of the rpm range
In the data log it was pulling over 5 degrees of timing for several cells right before it blew. We're not sure if it was just noise from a stressed component, or if it actually was detonating (which doesn't seem feasible as it was running 94 octane with 3 gallons of in tank methanol)
@@WannabeTuners could be due to the noise from a stressed component, keen to see what it looks like when u open it, i built my motor like 4 months ago and have to say u will enjoy doing it, stay positive and good luck bud!
@@byteoncomputerservices8054 It blew at 4300 rpm generating only 320 ft lbs of torque based on the dyno graph. It was running 94 octane with 3 gallons of in tank methanol, so pre ignition and detonation should not have been an issue. But, anything is possible. That dip in power that u could hear was over 5 degrees of timing being pulled right before it let go. Wether it was knocking, pre igniting, or just noisy from a stressed component, taking it apart should be pretty interesting, and hopefully we can get a clearer idea of how it failed :)
@@WannabeTuners funny enough the guy I bought my sway bars off of ZZB at Neetronics as well. Only with a GTX3071 and a spike of 32ish psi. Made around 500 when it popped though (or so I was told), he was from Milton and also drove a white gen juan.
@@WannabeTuners Yep, stock block. Supporting mods from what I can remember were: -Sure Motorsports turbo header (Which I bought off him) -ATP Turbo GTX3071R externally gated to a 38mm or 44mm Tial (don't remember the exact size) -3" catless turbo back -TR8 FMIC w/ CX racing piping -CPE injector seals -Aux fueling w/ split second controller -3.5" intake -unsure what intake manifold he was using because it was already sold when i went to pick up the sway bars and turbo header. His name was Imran if i remember correctly, his ad was on the facebook market place back in March 2019 when I met up with him. Super nice guy.
Dang, that stinks. Seeing the title, I was puckering during the vid, haha. This is the ZZB story you always fear - on the dyno during WOT. Amazingly, most ZZBs occur in casual, daily driving, not even during WOT. It looks like it let go around the peak torque rpm range too, but your numbers were easily in what's considered "safe" for stock-block range. Mileage on the motor? How long at this power level? Something for sure wasn't right if you were getting 5.xx KR with the level of octane you had in light of the timing you were running. That KR points to maybe ringlands, bearings, or rods already having issues, perhaps, and this was just the last straw. Well, build it stronger and come back better than ever! XD
Thanks dude! It had about 158,000 km's on the clock. Based on the way I've been tuning it over the years and according to this dyno, it's been in the 340-380 whp range for about 40,000 km's since installing the BNR S4. Virtual Dyno read a little lower than this dyno. We read and hear a lot about how stock blocks can take quite a bit of abuse, and it's been proven time and time again that they can. But based on how fragile the stock rods and pistons look, I'm not surprised. We found time to take the blown engine apart just yesterday and will be uploading a teardown video very soon. The damage is pretty bad and it's hard to say what caused the failure, but hopefully someone can give us a better idea :) The machine shop should be starting work on our used CX7 long block in the next week or two, so it's just a matter of being patient and excited at the same time lol
mine went out while coming home at night on the highway whole car was in flames and light the whole highway like it was day got stuck at 3k rpms like it was redlining i have no idea where rod 3 went
@@WannabeTuners no I had 2 extinguishers in the car and had to use both but i saved it haven't looked over the whole wiring harness the bottom of the car is crispy though lol. Good luck with yours though I will say don't let the car sit to long with out progress like i did after 2 years you will lose motivation sooo fast you'd wish it did burn to the ground.
Can anyone help me out with my boost problem? I was hitting about 16 psi then 13 after about9 and at times I dont even feel the boost what should I check ?
Mine has been making about 370 on e85 for about 6 years on the stock motor on a bnrs3 scary i run her hard to but I have always had this fear in the back of my mind .
That's great to hear, I too have been around the same power level for years, always tuning on the street with 2 gallons on in tank methanol. This was actually our first time at the dyno. I have a feeling that abusing the ignition cut rev limiter from the WOT box after almost every pull might have stretched the stock rod, causing it to sheer as soon as torque started increasing. When it let go at 4300 rpm, it was only generating 320 ft lbs of torque. This is all speculation though. It very well could have just been its time. Either way, I don't think we'll have any issues occasionally using the WOT box with the built engine :)
I'm not exactly sure. I've never had issues one the street with a similar tune. The difference is that on the street I always shift before the WOT box's ignition cut type rev limiter. I wonder if the random cutting of the ignition system under high engine load at high rpm stresses the engine components enough to weaken them.
I'm not exactly sure what caused it, although I'm thinking that the WOT box's abrupt ignition cut rev limiter feature may have stretched or fractured the cylinder 2 connecting rod, causing to break as soon as mid range torque was generated. With the stock block and a bigger turbo, it's not if it will blow, but when :) It's better to build it while it's still in one piece so you don't have to pay for another engine.
Good god so hard to watch. When I went on dyno to see what power I made I was holding my breath each oull .. so many nightmsre stories about dynos and vids of blown up motors
@@WannabeTuners oh geez! I just had to throw a gen 2 transmission in mine. Picked one up with only 40k on it. Probably one of the only benefits to torque steer is an abundance of lowish mile parts from ppl unknowing of torque steer. Almost all the cars you find have mild front passenger damage but all the good parts are still intact
I not very experienced with MazdaSpeed3 engines but the Mustang Ecoboost 2.3L block shares some designs with the MazdaSpeed3 block aka the Mazda L engine looking up similar Mazda Zoom Zoom Boom and the Ecoboom situation putting aggressive boost levels combine with advance ignition timings is a recipe for disaster www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/general-mps-mazdaspeed-discussion/12879-how-get-400whp-your-speed-3-practical-way.html www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f106/bad-news-forzda-1-blew-up-bent-77027/ www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123805882-Bent-Rod mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35750/timing-chain-jumped-probably-bent-a-piston-is-my-engine-worth-fixing it looks like there was knocking on the final run when the engine was really hot and it happened during the up stroke cycle and the con-rod/s just bent and snap under the high boost and detonation the bent/broken rods basically hit the sides of the cylinder and blew that chunk of the block and the rest of the components but def a engine tear down will reveal the damages and the cause of the failure. This is my assumption at this point based on my past experiences with blown Evo 4G63
Wannabe Tuners we have a guy out here in vegas with a mk6 gti pushing over 400hp on 91 stock internals and 500hp on 91 with water meth with all stock internals with a gtx2867 soooo idk bout that.
Yeah it had about 2000 km's on it. I was going to change it before going to the dyno but didn't have enough time. I guess a part of me also figured that if it could make decent power safetly on somewhat used oil, having new oil in there would be a breeze lol