McCulloch Pro Mac 10 -10 Pull Cord Replacement 

Thanks!! I am fixing my Dad's old chainsaw. Great piece of gear, it has performed well for probably 30 plus years, and still has plenty of life left. Thanks for making it simple.

Thanks for the video. I couldn't figure out how to increase spring tension on the pull cord. I just started collecting Macs. I got a 10-10 running, a 700, and a 7-10 is next. Thanks again.

Just picked up my first Mac 10 10 because of watching Billy Ray. Starting clean up and rebuild soon.

That's my teacher billy Ray! !!!👍👍beautiful Saw.👍

Thanks a lot for the video it helped much more than you know My pull recently broke on my Mac 10-10 and I was out of a job for awhile I appreciate the video much My main saw is a husky so this video helped Thank u

Great quick fix. Im also a stickler for using the best fitting screwdriver for the job. Thanks for sharing!

I have a 7/10 and the recoil is identical, I just fixed my cord on the side of the fire trail last weekend. I put an electronic ignition chip in mine too and it's made a noticeable difference especially on hot starts. Thanks for sharing your video . Don't make'm like they used to.

Nice job man! Love the old Macs.

Helpful video, though kind of long and slow. Anyway, my 10-10 didn't have the groove for the rope pin shown here. Instead, at the base of the wheel (pulley), running around the hub, were two channels the rope runs through. (Kind of hard to describe without drawing it.) The rope feeds through the right-hand one (looking down, holding the wheel clockwise), then through the left one. The pin keeps the very end of the rope from slipping back through the left channel. The right channel is where it starts getting wound; that's where mine broke. (After 25 years.) So I managed to knock the pin out by inserting a small nail and driving it out to the left. Then I pulled out the broken rope end with a pair of narrow needle nosed pliers. Then I inserted the remaining rope from right to left through both channels, using the small nail to coax it (a stiff wire might have worked too). Finally, the end of the rope was fed through and ready to wedge in place with the pin. Of course, I almost lost the pin twice (once on the floor amid debris), but by some miracle found it. The pin is soft steel, so at least it's magnetic, which helps when you are trying to keep it in place. I cut and melted the remaining starter rope and fed it through the channels (by another miracle they were wide enough that the rope slipped through without too much fiddling). I tapped the pin into the rope with a narrow nail punch. Like the guy in the video, I neglected to thread the rope through the ferrule on the housing before I did this, but fixing that was easy. I pushed out the knotted end from the handle, cut it, ran it through the ferrule, and then through the handle, then knotted and melted it and seated it back in the handle. Based on the warning in the video, I didn't remove the rope wheel. To wind the spring, I set the housing back on the engine (spreading the claws on the engine side in order to fit the teeth on the rope spindle), then wound the pulley against the spring. Snapped it in place and replaced the housing screws. Somehow it all worked. If you don't get what I'm talking about, send a note, and if I have time I'll draw a picture. Thanks to the OP for providing this video. Although my model is slightly different, I would have been lost without it. Thanks also to MuCulloch for making such a great machine. This thing will last until the next millennium.

What was the length and diameter of the rope? Thank!

Billy Ray the best one in the world 😉😉

Nice.😆 again

I have a Pro 10-10 Automatic and I am doing this exact thing currently. I had to get a replacement spring as I was not as careful and woosh... I tried for an hour to rewind until my hands were cramped up lol. What is the difference between the 10-10 variants?