Clear, articulate, words used from the common lexicon and if not further elaborated in simple terms, this video is quality enough to be "reference standard". Excellent work.
This video is AMAZING. I am doing my own 2.5 inch lift this weekend and I was nervous about alignment issues until your extremely detailed video helped clear my questions! Thank you for taking the time to do this!
This guy figured out my problem for me. I had a driveline noise and vibration only when I was decelerating. And after 60 mph . Turns out I just needed a trani mount drop kit. transfer case drop kit same thing. Night n day difference . Thanks dude..!!
Mike Carr lifted Jeeps with a transfer case/belly drop kit is nothing more than a mall-crawler. Seriously, why lift a Jeep if you’re going to kill your clearance? For the look of larger tires? That’s a mall-crawler.
This video was very educational, I have been having some drive line vibration when I get above 45mph and I think that fixing the pinion angle will fix the vibration! Thanks for making this video
Your TJ stuff is the best there is. Could you please do videos of complete disassembly and reassembly of all Jeep components on your Rubicon? No, I wont' pay you, but I'll give you lots of props in your videos. ;)
best video for this topic on the interest thanks for taking the time to make this video If you don't have adjustable control arms then can you use shims?
Excellent video! This is the most detailed one I have seen and I have watched many :) Is there a way to measure pinion angle without having to take off the driveshaft?
Thank you, I'm about to install a SYE + Double CV Extended Drive Shaft and I have the Currie Johnny Joint UCA's and LCA's but their instructions are lacking. Excellent video!
If the lower control arms are attached at the center point of the axle, the pinion angle won’t change under load. You’ll also get better bushing life and better articulation when off-road.
genius. been wondering why seems like my dif is in the proper position. smooth driving comes and goes instantly. things seem to be getting moved around.
Your video is very helpful and well done. My rear pinion ('03 Rubicon lifted) appears to be pointing a few degrees below the center of the TC yoke. I was told the correct angle for my Double Cardin driveshaft that I ordered is to have the rear pinion yoke pointing directly at the rear TC yoke. Your last statement made me think that a few degrees below center may be acceptable for this new driveshaft, and things will line up better under load. Is this correct? I don't have adjustable control arms yet since I haven't quite figured this out. Thanks!
Replaced my old 2.5 rear leaf springs with new 2,5 rear leaf springs on my 93 yj and now i have a terrible vibration above 20 . the angle is steep but the springs are the same arc as the old . take the rear shaft out and run down the road in front wheel drive the vibration goes away . What changed ? I guess the angle .......
The geometry of driveshafts, axles and T-cases applies across different vehicles and brands. An important consideration, however, is that under load the front pinion will point down a degree or so (as opposed to the rear which will tend to rise just a little bit). Set the front pinion a degree or so higher than an equal operating angle, if you can manage that without upsetting your caster too much.
Awsome video, new to the jeep community. Can this method be adapted to an LJ that is not a Rubicon edetion, as long as a SYE and a CV drive shift is used?
That was one the best descriptions of how to set your angles I have seen. I have a question, when you roll the angle of the pinion up should you be concerned about lubrication?
Excellent question. Yes, if you roll the pinion angle up significantly (more than a few degrees), you'll want to remove the front wheel and tire assembly and lower the front of the vehicle with jacks to roll the angle of the whole vehicle back when you fill the rear differential. You can also jack up the rear, but you'll need jacks that can lift pretty high.
Possibly. As for the correct angles of the u-joints, you'll know right away if it has a harmonic drone/buzzing sound when you drive it, especially over 35 mph and on up to highway speeds. Also, make sure it is long enough to give the slip joint enough travel, now that you have steeper driveline angles. You don't want to limit your down travel with a too-short driveshaft.
Hi, if my Differential angle is 6° originally and I put a 5.5 lift kit, my t-case angle will be the same because it moves up with the lift kit, do I need to move the pinion angle or can use as original?
It seems like with leaf springs the pinion angle can change drastically with suspension flex or hard acceleration or hard braking. Would it make sense to limit this with traction bars or is it not enough of a problem to resort to that?
Jim, you make an excellent point; there is significantly greater change in pinion angle from loaded to unloaded with leaf springs, however in most (relatively) lower powered off road rigs, it is less of a concern than with higher powered street rigs...which is why if you're building a fast muscle car it is beneficial to go to control arms and coil springs for the rear end.
on my tj I have 4inch lift and 1.5inch t-case drop, new ujoints all around, balanced drive shafts and the drive shaft angle is still too much and it constantly vibrates. Is this the only way to adjust the angle with adjustable upper or lower control arms?
Alright, we can fix this. What's going on is that you have exceeded what's called the maximum working angle of the u-joints at both ends of you drive shaft. You will need to purchase a "CV driveshaft", or what is properly called a double cardan driveshaft. The CV driveshaft will have one u-joint at the end by your pinion, and two up by the transfer case. You will now use your adjustable control arms to point the rear pinion almost exactly at ( but perhaps a degree below) the transfer case. Your vibes will all but disappear. See Tom Wood's page, and I highly recommend their products and services. www.4xshaft.com/index.html
You could cut off and re-weld the control arm brackets, but aside from that not really. The control arms are what locate the axle and determine the pinion angle. If you want to change the angle of the rear pinion, you either have to change the length of the control arms themselves or change the angle that they attach to the rear axle tube.
You could also do a ~1" motor mount lift (MML): that would tilt the entire engine/transmission/transfer case assembly downward toward the rear axle, which would have the same effect as dropping the transfer case another inch.
I installed a 2.5 inch lift on my tj, at first it was vibrating like crazy. Then i installed a t case drop kit and it went back to normal. So if I get a longer driveshaft and remove the drop kit will it be normal again?
I have never understood why people put their jack stands under the control arm ends where they mount to the axle. It’s really hard on the bushings. Use the axle tube!
Yes, but it would have to be WAY off...is it possible that you have a damaged yoke at one end or the other, such that either the caps of the u-joints are not held in place completely or they are held in place but are "crooked" (canted one way or the other)? What angles are you measuring for the pinion, t-case and driveshaft? Let's figure this out so you can drive your Jeep.
Bryan Pittman: That would help to rule out the rear axle, but is not a definitive test. If you have bearings going out in the rear diff or bent rear axle shafts, you could still have noise and vibration from the rear end. On the flip side, if you remove the rear driveshaft and it goes away, then the problem is definitively either in the driveshaft itself, or in the working angles of the joints on either end of the rear driveshaft.
FreedivejeepHD Past 3mo. Switched to deeper trans pan, flushed fluid twice dropping pan & via radiator line, x2 trans filters & trans gaskets, flushed all fluids besides radiator, & replaced rear driveshaft Spicer U-Joints. Did not help Couple days ago I changed the engine valve cover due to slight leak, new oil pressure sending unit, new elbows grommets & vent valves. I added a bottle Lucas Trans while running & in neutral to the point where it is 5-6mm past overfilled. The jeep is not 100% but significantly better, will now only shudder going up really steep hills >50deg inclines & gunning it. I had to remove the TV Valve to remove engine gasket, maybe I fixed something, no idea, but def better.
@@bpittman Assuming you have adjustable control arms, have you tried pointing your rear differential down 1 or 2 degrees from where it is presently pointed?
+Mathew Pepchinski, The geometry and relationships between the T-case, driveshaft and rear pinion will still apply. As long as the working angles of the u-joints on both ends of the driveshaft cancel each other when under load, you'll be good to go. Remember to point the rear pinion DOWN just a smidge ~1 degree, maybe two if you have mostly stock rubber bushings from the same angle as the T-case.
genius. been wondering why seems like my dif is in the proper position. smooth driving comes and goes instantly. things seem to be getting moved around.
genius. been wondering why seems like my dif is in the proper position. smooth driving comes and goes instantly. things seem to be getting moved around.
genius. been wondering why seems like my dif is in the proper position. smooth driving comes and goes instantly. things seem to be getting moved around.
