Heelplate update: you CAN slide the heelplate forwards and backwards. For some reason mine wasn’t supple in its movement and I couldn’t get it to slide properly. Not sure why. This is great news. Thanks to @seriac for this info.
I suppose the trick is to secure the pedals to the base profile sections first. This step conjoins the 2 profile sections (linked by the pedals themselves), allowing the user to slide the heel plate by loosening the 2 side hex bolts on each side as seen @ 3:55 . This sliding action gives access to the two front mounting holes as well as front to rear adjustment. It just happened to be one of the very few times unlike the typical male that I am; that I actually read a manual 😉. It's available for download via QR Code or from Meca website. Thanks again for the great review, Laurence 👍
@@black7rc720 honestly this just makes me love the pedals more. Thanks for pointing it out. I didn’t take them off and on many times so I kind of just accepted that it didn’t work as I expected. Just some more proof that I am wrong sometimes :) this is why comments are so important on videos
I am in the process of building out a rig and received my Evo 1 load cell 3 pedal set this week. Was blown away with workmanship and feel. So pleased to hear how much you enjoyed the pedals. Look forward to using these. PC is due to arrive this week and can’t wait to set them up. I was actually very impressed with mounting plate set up and removing the foot plate wasn’t a big issue for me. The company was great to deal with and shipped on promised date. These are really impressive.
Yeah I think the whole foot plate thing was just me being incompetent. I fastened them to my rig before trying to adjust them so I think I had them too tight for it all to move. Pity because they make my favourite pedals even better now
Brilliant review, Laurence. I’ve been looking for a comparison between the LC and Hydraulic brake pedals, so it was great to see you compare the two. I’m going with the LC as you recommend.
Great review Lawrence. One important note on the hydraulic brake pedal. Meca have quietly updated the EVO 1 pedal and it now has almost no travel at all. I purchased my set based on your review and was expecting the same amount of travel however that's not the case. My hydraulic pedal has about 2mm travel and I have been informed by meca support this is normal operation. A few others have posted the same experience on FB. Care to do a follow video on this ? I think perspective buyers should be aware of this.
Interesting, I have the same impression with my Evo1 received in January, almost no travel... which leads me to the question why to do a hydraulic construction anyway. You could rather provide a completely stiff pedal and only use load cell.
Hi, I like this pedals and I buy in October 2022... In User Guide you can adjust the travel. Page 14 / Master Cylinder Gap Settings 1) Loosen nut with 13 mm key and 2) Gap setting nut (to the left -> smaller gap). Right in this case for you and me ;)
I own the Evo1 since January... it works so far, but the amount of movement of the brake pedal is basically zero. I mean it works, but probably is hardly any difference to a construction of a complete stiff construction only using a load cell (ok, maybe a bit exaggerated). Do I something wrong or is it meant to move almost nothing? Compared to the Cup1 which I also have there is at least around 3 cm of movement, even with the stiff rubbers.
It’s not necessarily something I missed. I mainly loved the load cell brake for the braking that happened after the spring was already fully compressed. The hydraulic pedal offers a certain amount of resistance anyways but some other reviewers may miss the spring for sure
Hi Laurence like aways your videos are on point and you sold me on Meca :) I have one question to help me choose between the LC and the HY. Those the HY have this initial bite point (simulated by the spring by LC) that helps with the trail braking ?
I love these pedals and they prove you dont need crazy weight to enjoy an amazing brake. Im sry i dont want f1,2 or 3 style brakes. Peoppe also never ever account for the g forces in a car. When they brake they are having gs push them foward making it even easier for them to spply pressure to the brakes. If they didnt hsve thst it would be hard for them to hrake 100% also. Nobody rver talks about this its why brakes like aseteks who tried to copy the feeling modt do not like as its like a wall. This whole oh we want it to feel resl doesnt work that weol due to not having any forced around us helping out! This is why pedaks like this in a rig imo will always be best. I do love normal load cells though also! I even love elite v2 pedals from fanatec im so consitent and it had that perfect pre travel just barely like bbarely anything and its stiff enough to control nicely. But yeah p1000s also so so good. Any of these pedals are fantastic. Im actually maining elite v2 pedals right now with my simagic ultimate wheelbase. I go with what my results are and what feels good to me. Idc sbout price or anything else and I will not upgrade for a long long time except for testing some. Now if I got a set that you have here I probably would always use them lol but then again who knows.
Thanks for this, I’m tempted to buy a set. I note you have the optional pedal deck. Do you just mount that deck straight to your profile rig? - if yes. Why have you not bolted the pedals direct to the rig itself and skipped the pedal plate? There may be good reason but I don’t want to waste money on the plate if I don’t need it; equally I don’t want to forget it and need it later! - thank you!
If you have sufficient heel support, you don’t need the baseplate. But I feel that a baseplate is essential for a good pedals experience. It’s cheap and you won’t regret it. The shipping might be saucy though as it’s heavy.
Nice review and comparison, thanks ! Looking at the base plate, I was wondering : is it absolutely mandatory ? So far, I'm dealing with my Thrustmaster T3PA Pro, attached to a Sim-Lab base plate (provided with their GT1 Evo Sim Racing Cockpit). Would it be possible to attach these MECA pedals to such a base plate ? Of course, there would be no heel stop. And the MECA base plate is less expensive than many other. But it may pay for the shipping cost, and reduce the risk of my rig making a hole in the floor because of the additional weight ! Anyway, it seems that many pedal sets could be attached without any additional base plate, just using the Sim-Lab one.
Man I wish I saw this before I bought the hydraulic pedal. Do you prefer the evo load cell brake over the cup load cell brake now or does it the cup pedal feel better to you?
I own both, Cup for over a year, evo1 for 5 months now: The overall appeal and built quality is definitely superior in the evo1. But: the extreme stiffness and minimal travel of the hydraulic pedal is probably not suitable for a lot of sim racers. I do league racing and race in the top 1% - doable with both pedals, but I have a bit more consistent brake control with the Evo1. BUT: In terms of feel, I would prefer the Cups with the stiff bushings (3x orange). Seems more versatile for different cars. If having a good feeling clutch though, Evo1 is clearly the better choice. The clutch in the Cups feels very unrealistic.
Has anyone come out with a pedal that simulates a lockout? The worst part about pedals is tjatu don’t know where the lockout point is and the bite point feels like a guess.
Wow these make my moza srp pedals look like child play i wouldn't be surprised if there's cost what my whole wheel pedals and base and other sim peripheral components cost all together probably over a grand or 1500 they make heuskenveld pedals look like toys
Hi, I hesitate a lot between a meca evo1 hydraulic bundle with shifter and handbrake or a simagic p2000 kit with simagic shifter and handbrake for roughly the same price, which would be better?
I bought the hydraulic version, there is the adjustment of the gap, but I didn’t understand what it is for, what feeling should it give? Could you make a video explanation about the hydraulic brake and its adjustment. Is there a way to have the double step effect? Why do you recommend the load cell pedal to the hydraulic one?
@@LaurenceDusoswa Thanks for your answer, I would have liked a bit of preload like on the LC it has with the spring, to have that light contact effect of the brake pads in the corners where only a light touch is needed. I'm using the black top and blue bottom elastomer configuration. Do you have any suggestions to get some preload on the hydraulic version?
I replaced my hydraulic pedal with the load cell, you were right it is much more intuitive and for trail braking I can feel better the weight change of the car
@@LaurenceDusoswa Hi, I like this pedals and I buy in October 2022... In User Guide you can adjust the travel. Page 14 / Master Cylinder Gap Settings 1) Loosen nut with 13 mm key and 2) Gap setting nut (to the left -> smaller gap). Sorry but I don't remember is more left or right.
You'll be happy with either set. I got the MECA LC (and absolutely love them btw) because it was about $300 cheaper than VRS after shipping and taxes. And also because these have the extra long accelerator pedal option.
Dang almost every body in the comments owns these jesus rich turds 💩 if there's anything you got snd don't need anymore hook a brother up lol im thinking you guys are watching reviews on your purchase just to asure yourself that you made a good decision all i can say is if you got it like that you really don't need the assurance but seriously i take hand me downs on your old gear straight up
Maybe respect the people who own these rather than calling them rich turds. A begrudging attitude doesn't tend to be one which appreciates the opportunities that they are presented in life either. Concentrate on yourself and the rest will follow.
