I've changed my router to an aliexpress VFD and 1.5kw spindle way back and could not think on going back. Super nice to have that option from the get go now.
Carbide 3 D has the most informative videos for the CNC products. The Shapoeko 5 Pro is the top-of-the-line CNC on the market. I have moved away from Stepcraft CNC because what they show you is not the machine cost you see; you must add features which adds to the price. The Shapoeko is all included except for choice of the spindle of which you have 2 choices depending on your present budget.
I see there is a big response for your comment but while there at that “ necessary “ upgrade of adding 230v let’s make the spindle able to accept a 1/2” shank . Now that definitely would be worth waiting for.
@@iancockrell5920 Thanks for the update! I've ended up buying a Tormach 1100MX, so the Shapeoko is currently just gathering dust in my shop. But at some point I hope to pick it back up and get it up and running with a VFD spindle!
As much as I want one, I really just need to get to the SO4 before I throw more money at my SO3. While I wait, where do I need to send the fruit basket to get an OG Winston bake off video comparing the Carbide3d spindle to the Carbide3d palm router?
Cables coming out of two different sides? Really? Please don’t tell me it also suffers from the cable being just barely long enough, like the so3 cables?
I recently received my Carbide 3D Spindle Kit, unfortunately I will only receive my Shapeoko 5 Pro in the middle of May 2023. Is there a way to test the VFD and Spindle without the CNC machine to make sure it works?
I have a couple of questions. Are the cable shielded and grounded? Is the actual spindle grounded? Is the #4 pin grounded the body? This can be checked with the touching the Bitzero to the spindle body. Is there a way to install a breaking resistor, adjust the torture boost or configure the T1 relay on the VFD?
Thanks for the video. I know what the spec sheet says (110v 12A) but what is the typical power usage at the wall for the VFD when running at (say) 8,000 to 14,000 rpm?
I understand I can’t change rpm on the fly once the program has started. I sometimes need to change rpm due to differences in a length of wood. Am I wrong??
I'm guessing the answer is no, but any idea if this will function on GFCI protected circuits? It seems a VFD that does is not always easy to find... My shop electrical was completed about 5 years ago, and by code has to have GFCI protected 120v circuits. Last VFD I tried instantly tripped the GFCI upon trying to start it
@@benjaminbrewer2154 possibly, from my research and understanding, it seemed like most VFD's made quite a bit of noise on start up, which many/most GFCI's would interpret as a ground fault and trip. In my other case, I ended up just switching to 240v instead, which isn't GFCI protected (and powering a 1.5HP motor for my lathe, so likely a better choice anyway)
We just plugged a spindle into a bathroom outlet and it ran through a break in cycle just fine. (Held at various RPMs for several minutes) Will confirm tomorrow with a tester if the GFCI was working properly but initial impressions are yes it should work. We do have filtering on the 110V line built into the unit, same as our BitRunner Deluxe. If electrical interference is what is most often the point of failure, that should cover a lot of it.
Would an install for a 3XXL with Z plus just have the cable laid out like the router? Asking since it doesn’t have the additional drag chain. Also asking cause I ordered one already….🤣.
That's most likely the case. You could run it through the drag chain, but I would personally probably zip-tie it to the outside. Partly because it's easier, partly to reduce any unlikely (but not impossible) effects of EMI on the other stuff like homing switch.
Air cooled will be slightly louder, but not by much. Hard to speculate beyond that as quality can be hit or miss. We've tested spindles from a bunch of vendors and what we are selling is one we have had the best experience with and trust.
@@giantpune at 750, it isn't an obvious buy, but there is always a fomo. This thing feels like a beast in wood. I'll have to see how well it does in aluminum before deciding if the big spindle is really a worth while investment for me.
@@kiltedcraftworks4609 For the price, I think I'd buy the saunders machine aluminum fixture bed before this spindle. I think when moving to aluminum, I'd get more bang for the buck with better work holding than the jump from the router to a 110v spindle.
@@giantpune wow, I knew they made fixture parts, but didn't realize they were reasonably priced and came with shapeoko options. I'll have to dig in deeper to what they have available. Thanks for the tip!
If you have Shapeoko 3 with a V2.3 board and below (Shapeoko 3 machines purchased before Black Friday 2019), you will need to add the Carbide Motion PCB with an enclosure, which includes a new circuit board with the BitRunner connector installed.
@@shirothehero0609 True. But what about Hz and the amount of wattage needed to ensure the spindle works as intended? The idea of my comment is that Carbide made it clear on several occasions that they’re not interested in international markets. Smart ass 😉😉😉
If you have a newer control board with a 6-pin connector (2.4d or later) and a Z-plus or HDZ Z-axis, then yes. The spindle is a little too heavy for the older belt driven Z-axis. -W
@@carbide3d Are there installation instructions for SO3? I have a 2.4e board and don't have that connector on the side of my box. Guessing it's inside?
Man I don’t know. I don’t trust “soft” switches. If it wouldn’t mess things up, I think I’d have a physical kill switch before I EVER touch a spindle that’s just waiting to burst into action. 😳😬😬
Just push it from the front with your thumb, the collet doesn't require much force at all to pop back out. I don't this exact spindle, but on my ER20 its very easy to get them back out :)
@@Robinlarsson83 Absolutely does not work on my ER11 collets. I welded a bit of peg to an old pair of pliers to help me apply more force to push them out and it's still a ballache.
You need to push from the front, but also rock the collet back and forth from the back like a thumb stick on a game controller to pop it out of the groove that it's seated in.
@2:44 no need to unscrew any of the tail linkages, just pop the harness off the tail linkages (one one with screws), it will pop back on easy. I've done this faster and easier than this video.
