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New to the channel, Sam, and absolutely love your content. Have my Shapeoko 4 XXL coming tomorrow so I figured I'd throw your videos on while I build my stand for it. If you're looking for video ideas, I'd love to hear your thoughts on how a beginner can make money with the tool. i.e. what types of products sell best, where to sell, etc. Thanks again!
Awesome to hear you're getting the NEW Shapeoko 4!!! Woo hoo!!! I'll see what I can come up with, thanks for the suggestion and getting my thinker thinking! :)
I chose not to get a touch point for my CNC. Setting the Z height by visual inspection after a tool change is usually accurate enough for any wood, plastic, or resin projects I have tried. As I get older and my eyesight fails, I may decide to add one. But I would just add one wire to a feeler gauge, another wire to a clip to attach to the tool bit, and plug them into the Probe input.
I totally understand that!! This was a business purchase so that helped a lot (taxes). If I didn't have that option I would not have gotten this huge machine. I would have gotten one of the smaller machines.
I just got the same cnc machine about 2 weeks ago and already have orders for some larger projects. Have you done any tiling projects with this machine? Can it be done without drilling doweling holes into the work piece? Please post a video of how to do this.
Sam, I received my Shapeoko 5 pro 4x2 today and was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect the wires to the main board, I have all wires connected except for one and cant figure out where it needs to go.
Sam it looks like you might have forgot to hook the alligator clip to the BitZero before. When I first got my XXL last year I forgot to hook the clip up and it certainly woke me up quickly as it drove my bit hard into the probe :( great video as always!! I have the BitSitter and BitZero and love them both!!
That happened once, but it's also been known to keep going and not register the contact on me a time or two. I never could explain it. This all happened with the V1 BitZero. I've not used the V2 long enough to say if it will happen to it or not. But yes... I be human still. :D
That info should be on the CARBIDE website... one must go to 3rd party videos to get this basic info. Thank you for that, Mr. Sam Still I have yet to find what controller comes with the Shapeoko 5 Pro(4x2 in my case)... It's like they are using a deceptive presentation... it is not in the 'What's included' section of their page, nor in the User-Must-Provide list, or anywhere discussed I could put my eyes on ???
Another great video Sam, Im not sure which route I want to take yet, maybe all 3, what would you suggest? from a standpoint I havent purchased my cnc yet
practical working speed to make some sign boards or 10" arch letters 9plinn and fancy fonts hard vs soft material speed what can you really earn and charge for your time on this bed. can you draw on stuff 'paint gold on work like a pinstriper
Thank you sir, your videos are very informative. I have 2 questions, if you do not mind answering. 1. I have a Shapeoko XXL, would the BitSetter, BitZero v2, BitRunner v2 all work on my machine? 2. Can they all be installed to all work together? Thank you.
Great video Sam. I was curious about the slight movement of the probe body in the x/y direction. Do you have a better feel if this is being accounted for and is not a real concern?
hi sam! good presentation. i still don't see how i can justify adding another $320 to my shapeoko 2. bitsetter, when i do my design work in vcarve, i set the x-y zero at a point 1/16" in, and 1/16" up from the corner of my workpiece, and that is a good center for my 1/8" bits. i just line them up by eye, then set the z axis with my favorite standby, a .003" bit of paper. that seems to get the height relatively close. when it comes time to change a bit, say, on the project i am working on now, i tell ugs to return to zero, reset zero, raise it by .02, and send it down 20 inches, and over 6 inches. then i change the bit, and hit return to zero, and reset the height with the bit of paper. after almost 4 years of using my cnc, i don't know how i managed to get by without these miraculous devices...
Good video and it does clear some things up. So thank you. What I still don't quite get is if I have a touch probe why would I need a bit setter? After I change a bit I could just use the touch probe and get the same result. Right?
You could, if you split your job into separate files per bit. The benefit of a BitSetter is to just program one job with different tool numbers. When it's done with Tool #1, it stops, you load Tool #2, then press Start. It automatically senses the bit and keeps going without any further touch probe work.
Either one is fine. Their branded router is a Makita clone, so it's the same internals. I've never had issues with my clone router from them. It came with extra brushes which is the part that tends to wear out over time... although I'm still on my original set.
Hey Sam, I have contemplating on purchasing a CNC machine. Reviewed many different brands and after many of your videos on the Shapeoko 4 this seem like nice machine to start out with. Saying that, I'm a beginner and know little other then what you have explained about this CNC, would it be to my advantage in purchasing the bitrunner!. Like I said in the beginning of video it can be bit confusing. So which is best for a beginner?. Once again thanks and any advice will be greatly appreciated. Mike
I would recommend the Pro (sam has the pro, shapeoko 4 is not the same). I have the pro XL version. Sam has XXL. You would have to decide for yourself when it comes to the HYBRID TABLE option. I got it. I do not intend to cut the top of it at all & instead will use thin waste boards between it & the work piece - I could have saved hundreds by just skipping it & mounting my own wasteboard instead. Food for thought. It is a good machine. Depending on your needs, you may want to look at Onefinity as well. Keeping in mind, Carbide3D is a company based in USA & Onefinity comes out of Canada. Also from Canada is Longmill - also a very good machine. Shapeoko Pro seems very nice & I like the controller board is mounted directly to it. That said, you may want to weigh the pros & cons of all of these machines. Drive systems: Onefinity has the best drive system of all of them (ball screws). Longmill mk2 uses Acme/Lead screws - decent. Garrett Fromme’s channel has a great set of videos about the longmill. He has 2 generations of the machine. Next is Shapeoko 4 & Pro, using belts to drive on. Not ideal! However, they are beefy 15mm belts & decent. They can be upgraded as well, with third-party aftermarket belts, down the road. They seem very fine to me. I think they are reinforced, though I am not sure yet. Stepcraft’s new 3rd gen D series is worth looking at. It is very, very good. Probably the best of all the machines named DEPENDING on which one you get & which options you need - the options can make it costly fast. The stepcraft runs with lead screws & steel-on-steel rails. It is a massive leap forward from the second generation stepcraft D machines, in basically every way.
Does a bit zero need to be used first before the bit setter for a large cut job just to set the x/y of the stock? I get that I can design with the 33x33 base in mind and place my stock accordingly.
The bit zero itself is not required, you can zero the machine manually. But the zeroing process is required so that the machine knows where the stock begins at for the job.
No problem... with the v1 BitZero from Carbide 3D. The v2 may not work well since it zeros from inside a pocket vs. the outside faces of the block. When running v-bit jobs, I'll eyeball the x and y axis zero points, then use the probe for the z axis only.
Well done Sam. One thing I did mention before was having a ground fully hooked to the router at all times might simplify all the "connections" steps you have to do to insure you've done everything. .ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fH7xUTdp-lw.html I don't know whether you actually saw it before but this man is pretty handy.
I didn't see it before -- RU-vid likes to delete comments with links. That's a neat solution for his machine though. Thankfully I don't have to do that with mine since it's all metal and self-grounding from spindle to frame, etc. :)
Sam great info, but I am not a fan nor a user of CNC machines in my wood shop. That old saying "if you cant say anything good then say nothing at all" so I will c-ya on your next video, have a great day take care.
