I'm a girl that just got a job selling menswear shoes in a luxury department store with no clue about menswear, I can't tell you how much your videos have helped me!
I now realize that most of my supposed Oxfords are really Derbys, even though the manufacturer labeled them 'Oxfords'. Thanks for explaining the difference.
I know right? When you search for Oxford shoes on online stores, most of the shoes that come up are Derbys labbled Oxfords. I almost bought the wrong shoes before I thought of searching for what the actual difference is.
Yes...I love the USA, but this is an example of business dumbing down the consumer (and how the decline of western civilization festers here in so many ways). Shine em up, fellas.
Dear Sven, I am a lady who is interested in quality menswear on her spouse's behalf. As we will soon participate in events that require very formal wear, I thought I refresh my knowledge on standards and styles. I would like to say that I have found your videos extraordinary, and very helpful! (a cheerful side-remark: these are such matters what a lady should be familiar with as well) It was such a pleasure to see them, and it is such a pleasure to encounter fineness and quality. Thank you for making these videos and keeping such values alive! Kind regards, D M H
Sounds good. Thanks for the support! Please spread the word. There's more on www.gentlemansgazette.com. You can also sign up to our newsletter to get a free ebook as well as updates on our contents and products. www.gentlemansgazette.com/newsletter-sign-up/
Too often these days I see married couples who are effectively roommates that sometimes have children (or a child). It's so nice to see a comment like this from someone that understands one of the key aspects of marriage, and I hope your husband has the same understanding as well.
I've had a pair of plain black Oxfords for a while which are perfect for formal occasions, and just today got my first pair of Brogue Oxfords. I have slim feet so well fitted Oxfords really suit my foot shape, but my pair of Derby boots comes in handy for colder weather as the additional flexibility of sizing means I can wear thicker socks when I want to with no issues. For less formal occasions I have a fantastic pair of suede Derbys in a great reddish tan colour, extremely soft and comfortable. Next planned purchase is some kind of loafer or driving shoe.
Raphael, I've been watching many of your videos, and I yet have many more to go. But I thoroughly enjoy the format of your videos and how you approach men's style. I am 20 years old and I have made it my mission to upgrade my wardrobe and to start putting more thought and effort into my appearance and how I present myself to the world. Your videos have been very informative and helpful, and I thank you graciously. I am excited to view more of your collection in order to be well-versed in men's style and the art of being a gentleman, so keep them coming! I hope you have a good day, that is all.
+Nick Zimmermann Dear Nick, thank you for your kind words, much appreciated! We are working on something that will help upgrade your wardrobe in a new way. Stay tuned for 2016.
+Gentleman's Gazette I always make sure to show my appreciation and support for channels that I believe make a grand effort towards helping others. You will definitely see a few more "thumbs up"s and comments from me through the holidays and 2016! I hope you have a fine weekend.
Thank you, Sven for this very informative video. it is the ONLY one to very clearly explain the difference between the three. I look at all your videos. Keep up the great work.
I have a cap-toe oxford and a wingtip derby and i think its all i personally need for my wardrobe,i could wear the derby in a typical events and the oxford in a more formal events
Excellent article/video. Went to my closet, did a quick inventory. Have ten oxfords, seven derbies, three bluchers and one loafer with eight of them in two-tone. Never knew distinction between derby/blucher thanks for the info.
I am so immensely glad, I found your blog about a year ago. It has changed my life and especially my wardrobe in a very significantly better way! Also I seem to learn so much from you. It's like as if all of the things that you point out, can be read nowhere. Or maybe I am just bad at googling. Keep up the good work Raphael, I hope to hear a lot from your blog and your vlog in the future :)
Thank you very much. I can promise you it has nothing to do with google but the fact that we produce original content and not just articles that retell the same stories you can read online elsewhere. Would you be interested in leaving a video review for us?
Gentleman's Gazette Ahh I see. This would explain a lot.I'm sorry, but i have to ask; a video review? What do you mean by that? - A video review of the channel or the changes it has made?
I love dress shoes! I always dress up with captoe lace ups or maybe wingtips! I own 5 pair (3 are black and 2 are brown) thanx sir for your videos! They really help :)
Sven, I am surprised and amused that you, as a person of Northern European extraction, would pronounce the word "blucher" (blooker) as you do. I love what you do and thanks for it. I am the most stylish guy in my seniors' residence because of your videos.
Actually I was surprised and amused, too, by the pronunciation in the video, but also by your Blooker. These shoes are named after the Prussian (German) General Field Marshal Gebhard von Blücher and their proper pronunciation is completely different from anything I have heard or read here. Sven Raphael - coming from Germany - of course know this, but as far as I understand it is not only allowed but pretty much standard in English speaking countries to "englify" foreign words. Would be rather impolite to do the same in Germany by the way. Click the play button here: de.forvo.com/word/bl%C3%BCcher/
This is a great video. I have a question here. How much of the shine on the shoe can be considered appropriate for the purpose of an extremely formal interview? The interviewers would be the 'who is who' of the world of bureaucracy.
I had thought for some time that whole cut shoes are neither oxford nor derby, but a category on their own. I understand now that they are a variety of oxford because of the absence of open lacing.
Really good video! to be honest I had no idea about it! you explained very well. I'm looking forward to buy it, after see this video I have decided buy Derbies which are a little informal. In the oder hand i'm currently studying english and you have a really good tone lol
04:08 un error muy común al traducir de inglés a español la palabra “resoled” es dejarla como “revendido” cuando en realidad significa cambio de suela, y es que en español no tenemos una palabra equivalente.
While shopping for oxfords at kenneth cole, i realized majority of the shoes they call oxford are actually Derby. Is it compulsory for the stitching to be closed lacing to be called an Oxford, otherwise its a Derby? Then all the shoes on this link www.kennethcole.com/men/shoes/oxfords/ are probably incorrectly labeled as Oxford and must be Derby's or Blucher?
Thanks, I've watched a bunch of your videos now; very informative. The problem I am having is that I am looking at a large shoe store here, specifically at their Oxfords and many of the Oxfords they show are open lace system so I am still confused. lol
Classically speaking the Blutcher is a Vedtshoen construction and not a goodyear construction which leads to a different style as the upper actually is stitched to the sole and not to a welt
I wear a professional uniform (U.S. civilian government), and am supposed to wear brown shoes. I think bluchers would be a bit too unprofessional, but oxfords might be a bit too hoity-toity. A plain- toe or maybe cap-toe derby seems appropriate maybe? My 1 coworker wears dress derby shoes. I don't think they're cap-toe shoes. My supervisor wears almost a hiking boot. I am actually transitioning from a maintenance position to a more formal uniform. I've always worn steel toed work boots before, but will need to step up my professional footwear. What do you recommend?
A trans-Atlantic thing, but we say (derby) as darby. And, the Blucher is known as an 'American Brogue' while the Derby is an 'English Brogue'. Good video BTW.
Excellent vid, never knew there were such differences. Can you explain what is the best type of shoe to wear at a wedding especially if its for the Groom to wear? Thanks.
I can’t believe the number of vendors labeling derby shoes as oxfords. 2 months ago I didn’t know the difference, but now that I have learned, I’m genuinely irritated by the improper labeling.
I hate to ask you because I feel even though other people have made videos for it, I feel that you are optimal when explaining, but is it possible you could make a video on Goodyear Welt v. Blake Stitch?
Hello - I thoroughly enjoy your videos. A quick question if I may... It appears that you lace the blucher in a criss-cross fashion and the oxford in a bar pattern. Is this a "rule", or am I reading too much in to this observation.
+Peter A Make sure to watch these videos about lacing ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lreR-f9smJE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jJ6sH54OxSI.html and the playlist ru-vid.com/group/PLwC33qrNZRbDBPgkCMeOl4sly5OSqIShi
I got to learn quite about on shoes that I hadn't in all my life up until this point. May I seek your advice on what type of shoes I should wear since I travel on bike mostly. I love wearing formal shoes.
Hi, I've watches a few of your videos and found them to be very informative and well made. I don't know if you've done this before, but what about creating a "gentlemen & watches" video? Obviously, I'm a bit biased because my RU-vid channel is entirely about watches (so is my Instagram), but watches are every bit (if not more) important than a man's suit, shoes, tie knot, or anything else. If you need help or would like to tag team a video about it, I'd be happy to help. Keep up the great work. Cheers! P.S.: Who makes the black oxford shoes in the video? I just bought a pair of Bruno Magli black, cap toe oxfords for work and I absolutely love them.
+The Watch Mister Hi there, I think we will be doing some watch videos in the future, but we are currently working on a few other projects so it has to wait until 2016
I have never liked the derby and find them to be unnecessary. If I want to be formal I wear oxfords, if I want to be casual I prefer monkstraps or various boots.
The chocolate brown derbys are Allen Edmonds (Presidential model I believe), I recently acquired a similar brown Allen Edmonds derby from the MacNeil line. It's got more beef to the sole and has pebble patterning in the leather (which I forgot the real name of that type, but it's been pressed by a machine so it gets that pebble look). Make sure you get the correct width, I used to think I'm a D width but these Allen Edmonds in E width are perfect so I'll aim for E next time.
Hi Sven, I was wondering if you could explain to me what makes a men's shoe, a cambridge. I loved your detail description of the oxford and how it differs from the Derby & Blucher, but I am completely baffled by shoes that are labeled Cambridge. Thank you :)
If oxford is the most formal, how come you see them in light colors and sometimes full brogue? I mean how appropriate would these be for formal occasions such as weddings? I'm simply confused.
Gentleman's Gazette Okay, thanks. That would be fantastic. (And it would be a law firm, but I was thinking during the summer time when it's super hot, probably paired with a light colored suit and on a casual Friday.)
+Chris Contreraz I suggest you read the full article where I explain more about the origins and pronounciation www.gentlemansgazette.com/derby-shoe-blucher-guide/
Thank you for your response: I drove to a place that had Allen Edmonds. I found out our area has a not style sensitive designation for national brands. I drove to Milwaukee area.